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YOUR RESEARCHMetal in filter...
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Run away
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No, but you ARE a loud-mouthed douchebag that ran away from his 996 because it was too scary.
Leading evidence: 'Run away' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check filter, and keep doing' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Run magnet over it and didn't attract very many flakes
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I took the filter to him and he ran a magnet over it and didn't attract very many flakes.
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Suggestion
Filter picked it up, drive it another 500 miles or so and check the filter, and keep doing that to see if it gets worse or goes away.
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Suggestion
Did the shop checked the oil filter and inspect the oil sump before they install the IMSB and what kind of IMSB is that?
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Suggestion
If you want to err on the side of caution let the engine idle until warmed up and then remove the filter and examine the oil and filter after dumping both into a *clean* drain pan.
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Suggestion
Its will be easy to check if the sump plate has been removed as the new sealant "bead" will be seen, even if they didn't actually clean the pans exterior.
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Posted this in the IMS thread but it's a little off the beaten path.
First oil change after IMS replacement. Old IMSB reported to be "like new". FF 5,000 miles and the filter looks like this:
A couple flecks in filter housing. Don't have a magnetic plug (my bad) and the oil sample is being shipped off to Blackstone first thing in the morning.
I did find the thread from the guy who had metal in the filter 12k mi. after his IMSB change. He was advised to do an oil/filter change at 50 mi. and go from there. Oh, and, KK suggested he tear the engine down, replacing parts as you see fit.
TC
Anytime an engine is disturbed this can result in an uptick in debris in the oil filter.
Absent any ferrous bits the shiny stuff is probably aluminum and could be from the IMSB being changed out. I hope it doesn't signal the bearing was pressed in crooked and shaved some aluminum from the bearing bore. While possible I don't think that's what happened.
It doesn't take much alum. after having gone through the gear teeth of the oil pump to make a small flake or two of alum end up as a lot of tiny specs of alum. in the filter element.
Wait to see what the oil analysis report has to say.
You can change the oil and filter and of course clean the filter housing out and run the engine some. Of course then the question becomes how long how much engine run time do you allow? If you want to err on the side of caution let the engine idle until warmed up and then remove the filter and examine the oil and filter after dumping both into a *clean* drain pan. What you find or do not find determines what you do next.
If clean or just a spec or two -- what I expect -- put in a new filter and top up the oil and drive the car a while. Always with an ear tuned to the engine in case it starts making scary noises. If you hear anything shut off the engine first and ask questions later.
After this second test run again drop the filter and check it and the oil. If it is still clean you were probably dealing with just the normal trash a disturbed engine produces.
Likely the next oil change will have you finding some more trash but it should be quite a bit less.
That will be the first question I ask when I call him tomorrow.
When I cut open the filter two changes ago, (The last change I personally performed.) it was clean.
TC
Its will be easy to check if the sump plate has been removed as the new sealant "bead" will be seen, even if they didn't actually clean the pans exterior.
Is yours an mkII? I see some black chain pad like debris in your pics. I also second the suggestion of dropping the oil pan. If you don't find anything significant, I think installing an IMSB guardian will be a good idea if you decide to keep driving the car, at least the guardian can warn you earlier before everything in the engine is destroyed and become non rebuildable. Of course the guardian also doubles as a magnetic drain plug.
If your IMSB is the open type, the debris will also destroy the new bearing quickly.
Another thing to check is borescoping the cylinders and see if they are scored.
I have also its flakes, I make a oil change every 5000 km
and I check the oil filter...
for my car the flakes are not magnetic : maybe this a aluminium ???
I've done the make oil
on a 986 to a friend
The oil filter was the same this pictures.
and there in small black plastic end like her pictures....
Indy looked at new filter which had a couple flecks, felt the amount of magnetic material in the original filter was minimal, installed a magnetic drain plug (I'm going to get the Guardian just as an added layer.) and told me to run it 1000 miles and change again.
Oil sample off to Blackstone today.
More to follow.
TC
The Guardian itself is magnetic...collects ferrous metal to bridge the gap electrically to close the alarm circuit. BTW OP, you may want to consider the Guardian Junior.
The mechanic is looking to see if the metal count goes up in the next filter. What you have there is more than a "couple of flecks" but there isn't much he can do at this time anyways.
Options appear to include:
1) Freak out and rebuild it now
2) Drive it some more
a) everything fine
b) rebuild it later
I think I like 2A the best.
While I hate suggesting throwing more $$ at something that may be a non-issue, a spin-on filter adapter plus a filtermag would give you an opportunity to catch any additional ferrous metal that shows up to the party. But then again, there may not be any, and you'll have spent the $$ for nuffin'.
That's part of my point. Why get a magnetic drain plug now if planning on doing Guardian later. Probably better to just skip magnetic drain plug and do Guardian first.
Just a thought, since we may have these laying around, but is there a place to leave a old harddrive magnet in the filter housing somewhere? Or one that's been cut down?
I'm due for a change soon anyway so may have to take a look.
He already put in a magnetic plug. I bought the spin on adapter last year but didn't put it on because a pissing contest thread on that subject ended in a draw so, I left it alone.
I will do the Guardian after the 1000 mi. change/check.
I took the filter to him and he ran a magnet over it and didn't attract very many flakes. I'm assuming some pieces reflecting in the picture are non-magnetic.
TC
Though some wanna-be mechanics in here will tell you metal in the filter is of no concern, I would not ignore it. The engine is telling you something is not normal. Man up and do something about it. I wouldn't think twice about dropping/pulling an engine, whether its an M96 or diesel pickup. Sometimes you just have to do it.
No, but you ARE a loud-mouthed douchebag that ran away from his 996 because it was too scary. Poor widdwe KwazyK.
There is an entire Internet for you to troll - so go somewhere else.
Ok, on a positive note, I just finished installing the spin-on adapter and magnetic drain plug from LN with my oil change. I cut the old filter open, looked in all the crevices and broke into the happy dance. No metal, no plastic just used oil.
an idea about the origin of flakes
wear and tear engine???
I have a magnetic plug to the upper engine
(Moreover it is clean no metal flake), I have yet
a few flakes alu. in the filter oil...
Stef--I don't believe in coincidences. Engine is fine before the IMS replacement. Metal flakes show up right after.
Something was amiss before and just didn't show up before and was disturbed by the installation process or something went wrong during the installation or, it could be a coincidence and the engine is coming apart.
TC
Lol. Also reminding you that you were too afraid to take a 600 mile trip regardless of the multiple page post where everyone and their grandmothers said it was ok. So you naturally sold it yet still hang out here? I really can't understand you.
Btw, are you affiliated in anyway with the "Truck U" show on Spike or Velocity tv by chance?
Filter picked it up, drive it another 500 miles or so and check the filter, and keep doing that to see if it gets worse or goes away.
There are some engine builders out there who see this happen from time to time after an IMS replacement. Almost all the time the engine is fine and the metal goes away and is picked up by the filter.
As far as I know he doesn't use it as a DD but since the bearing specs far exceeded the OEM bearing, in theory it should be fine. Had the new LNE single row PRO been around, I would have used it. If I still owned it, I would drop the engine again, examine the ceramic hybrid, then install the PRO because it seems like the best choice for the SR engines.
C'mon Alpy, surely you understand someones need to improve mechanical things!
I would think twice.
I don't have $10k laying around to go and explore for problems. Talking to engine builders who aren't OCD and live in the real world a lot of these issues are from metal that was disturbed with putting the IMS in and that the engine is mostly just fine. I'd rather watch it and see if it gets worse.
Funny though, the spin-on adaptor people like to talk about on here would create a situation where no one may ever notice junk in the oil. See no problem have no problem, right?
Maybe it's time to pull a JI and buy back your old car and install The Solution?
Actually what am I thinking, then you'd be worried about all the other modes of failure. However cylinder scoring should be low on your list since you're in TX.
I would only consider this if I can pay several thousand more than I sold it for. Funny thing is that the new owner agreed with my driving habits and has probably put almost no miles on it, hence the car is still being saved.
The filter media is just as visible on the spin on filter but it has to be cut apart with a filter cutter. Its not a see no problem have no problem unless the owner does not want to look.
I remember your post about keeping the seals but I don't remember you removing the bearing to check it. I do recall you having some engine problems but not the specifics.
I haven't posted anything on the bearing yet but will soon. My engine has been apart for a while and the main bearings got cooked (they didn't spin). The IMS has been out of the engine and started reassembling the engine but haven't made a decision on what to use a replacement but will make a choice soon too. I'll post an update on my original thread that has a link to the second repair thread on a different site.
KrazyK spending money on PM for his 996 is a slightly less robust use of funds than anything Michael Jackson spent on birth control during his marriage to Lisa Marie.
Not that I've seen - I ordered mine from Amazon.
I bought the cheapest one - Jegs, for $35ish. There are some really nice anodized aluminum ones in various colors with ball bearings for $100, but that seemed excessive for something I'll use a few times a year.
Bonus: I now cut open the filters from my Corvette and my wife's Nissan. Interestingly, the one or two non-ferrous specks that freak people out so badly show up occasionally on those cars, too.
