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YOUR RESEARCHCan't shift while running
Reported or suspected cause
pressure plate
Reported cause
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Leading evidence: 'pressure plate' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'pressure plate' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check clutch fluid reservoir' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I torqued to spec and used locktite when installed.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used the starter motor to get rolling in first, slammed it into second gear and drove home about 10 miles.
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Disconnect hydraulic line ) and bolting/fabricating a "positive stop"
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Suggestion
You "could" eliminate the hydraulic system by unbolting the slave cylinder from the trans ( without disconnecting hydraulic line ) and bolting/fabricating a "positive stop" on it, clutch pedal should then be rock solid, that would prove the integrity of the slave/master/lines/pedal ect.
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Stopped for gas and started it up and can't get into gear. Started in first and felt it pulling so I took off but could not shift into second. Pulled over and started in 2nd and rolled on my way. Cables from underneath look to be in place. I'm stuck at work with no tools.
Ideas?
UPDATE, It was the pressure plate
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Hydralic slave is not pushing in the pressure plate to relesae the clutch. Either the slave, through out bearing, pressure plate. Doubt its the dual mass flywheel.
New clutch and pressure plate. less than 10K miles ago when I did the swap. Never an issue until now.
Driving home is not a safe option like this (to many stop lights)
Fluid is full and no leaks visible.
Slave cylinder can be done without dropping the trans?
How much torque on the pressure plate bolts, loctite? I always over-torque to 23lbs and loctite blue. I've
seen them get loose too many times, and the clutch will drag/not release.
If the pedal still has resistance the master is likely okay. The slave cylinder requires visual inspection to see if the actuator arm is moving. Sometimes the internal piston fails or the arm can break.
It helps to have a friend push the pedal while you watch the slave under the car.
This general auto stuff. Looking at the Porsche slave cylinder and how it bolts into the trans case it will be tough to check. It may require mirrors and a borescope and will likely require lifting the car some.
If it�ll help I can probably put mine in ramps and snap a few photos.
If you got 10k miles, it should�ve bled fine and have no air in the line.
It's simple and complicated at the same time. Any tests that will assume the PP,TO bearing, lever and fulcrum are working as designed, which may be a wrong assumption, and could lead down a false path.
If there is no fluid lose or leaks, thats a good indication the hydraulic system is ok, start there. Common since and knowing how all the parts work will help guide you to next step. And it may be necessary to drop the trans to verify the mechanical integrity.,after evaluating hydraulics.
You "could" eliminate the hydraulic system by unbolting the slave cylinder from the trans ( without disconnecting hydraulic line ) and bolting/fabricating a "positive stop" on it, clutch pedal should then be rock solid, that would prove the integrity of the slave/master/lines/pedal ect.
It's not hard to ID. Drivers side toward top of transmission case - will have a hard line going to it with a coil of line just ahead of connection to slave cylinder. The main line should be blue if it's stock...
Can you shift through the gears while the engine is off?
Also, try this WITH NOTHING IN FRONT OF YOU!:
With the car off, put it in 1st, push in the clutch pedal, then try to start the car. Does the car try to drive forward as you're cranking the engine?
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I think you did what I asked. If that's the case, it's likely your clutch disk. My Prelude did the same exact thing. Turned out to be one of the springs in the clutch disk popped out. I was told this caused the disk to warp.
A long time ago, on a dark and stormy night, the clutch went out on my MGB. I was on the side of the road. I used the starter motor to get rolling in first, slammed it into second gear and drove home about 10 miles. I have started rolling in second gear from a stop in the Porsche. Not that difficult and you can do many stops while just slipping out the clutch and building speed. At least it might get you home.
Double check to ensure your cables are firmly seated on the lever *****, and that the cable sheaths are firmly seated in the forks with the retaining clips in place. A quick glance underneath may mislead you to think the cables are ok. This sounds suspiciously like an episode I had a couple of days ago with my 99 C2. Pulling out of a pizza joint, I couldn't get the car in reverse and when I did, the shifter felt all mushy. I then could only get into second gear but was able to limp home. Got it up in the air and crawled underneath to find both cable sheaths had come away from the forks and the retaining clips were nowhere to be found. Was able to reseat the sheaths in the forks and secure with wire ties until the new retaining clips arrive.
Building speed as in RPMs and then power shift it?
I'm just concerned with the stop and go traffic and 4 traffic lights on the way home. I don't want to end up stuck in a worse position.
Not much I can do until after work today.
dporto, I meant ID if it's functioning.
Not shifting into reverse with the car off is not a surprise. The reverse gear moves in to mesh with the other 2 shafts to reverse the direction of the output shaft. It can easily not match one of the 2 gears it meshes with if the engine is not running and the clutch wasn't just released. Rolling the car will move the one shaft and allow the gear to mesh.
My bet is on the mechanics inside the bell housing. (sorry, I know it's quite generic)
Clutch helper spring is on the pedal, right? If yes, not having it shouldn't affect how the clutch works except by making you work harder.
Good luck! It's no fun to be stuck.
If you try to go into gear and it wants to inch forward you have a bad pressure plate. Doesn’t matter if it’s new. Just bc it’s a new part doesn’t mean you can count it out as a failure point. I learned that from being a tech for a while. Sucks but it’s most likely your culprit.
Thanks gang. I just wanted to rule out all outside possibilities before dropping the trans.
What really sucks is, I'll be doing it all over again in Feb/March 2021...
Went through all my receipts and did not see a pressure plate for the 996. Previous owner had it done not to long before I got the car... My speedster got one previously though.
Oh The joys of losing your memory with age...
Nice picture.
Did I miss a rebuild thread?
I know you�re in line for an FSI rebuild, and you have a replacement engine in your car, where did this beauty come from?
I�d pull the slave cylinder and look inside the bell housing first. It doesn�t sound promising, but you may get lucky and not need a full remove and replace.
Jake said on Facebook that is the engine going in the one car he was going to sell, I think originally on BAT, I ask if he was going to give a report on the UAOS, unfortunately he said he will not.
What do you want to know about the UAOS? Porschetech (Skip) will give you all the info you need. My R40 won't be done until Feb/March 2021 so I won't be able to give you any feedback but after doing the AOS twice in one year, It's the only way to go! Big thank you to Skip for creating the UAOS!!
Also, after a closer look at the PO's service history, the Pressure plate was done 65K miles ago in 2008. I should have one in hand tomorrow so today the fun begins. Stay Tuned!
Yea, Jake doesn't promote any other products, even in his videos he covers the product names or blanks them out. Maybe he will say a few words about the UAOS in the video series.
Thanks Bill, I'm glad for you and your future R40 !!
Oh BTW, JohnCA58 already has a UAOS,, lol. I think he just want to hear Jakes opinion...
They'll never catch me once I get it out of 2nd....
Now if only I can get this damn transmission out without a lift!
Dropping the motor and trans together was so much easier.
Got it out and now I can't get it back in! I need 2 more inches (that's what she said) and it's done.
I should have dropped the motor and trans as one unit, much easier and less time consuming now that I've done it both ways solo.
If you know the island, there is no circle...One way in and one way out
It was the pressure plate. We're up and running and the clutch feels better than it ever did Thanks for everyone's help and guidance.
I'll never drop a transmission in a 996 again. Getting it back together was a real bitch!
Awesome outcome! Nice work.
Now you have another great story about you and the car.
Kauai is an awesome Island. Got married there 29 years ago and visit every year or so... I could never live there though, I might just relax enough to see how crazy I am too work so hard. (well, I think I'm working hard...)
Is there any break-in for a clutch?
