Engine height when replacing mounts

I�ve got a couple of Rein engine mounts ready to replace what I suspect are the originals on my �99 C2. I�m a little nervous about this job so want to make sure I understand it. I�ve read the 101 Projects guide, watched a couple of videos, and read a few threads in here. The procedure seems simple enough, except for one thing that I can�t find a satisfactory answer to. How high do you jack up the engine when installing the new mount? The old mounts sag, so the engine should be slightly higher in the frame when the job is complete. So do you just torque the nuts to spec and let that raise the engine up? Or do you need to snug the �mustache� engine cradle up against the mount first, and then torque it down?

So when I did this job I supported the engine by placing a flat piece of wood between my jack and sump plate and I simply lifted the engine up a bit. You will see the engine lift up a little bit before the car begins to lift up on the suspension. This is the slack from your blown mounts that you are picking up. Ideally you want to find that point right before the car begins to lift and lock your jack right there. Then you simply make the swap. When you are finished you can drop the jack down and you will see the engine will not move a millimeter. Worst case scenario you had the car up in the air just a little bit too, (not off the wheels of course,) and you will see the car settle back down but the engine will remain tight and snug in its proper position. Hope this helps, let me know if you need more details. Quick edit: If you look at the Rein mounts themselves, there's a square part at the very bottom of the stud, right before the rubber bit. That square part fits into a female counterpart within the engine bay, then the two bolt holes on the sides make contact with the tub of the car itself. On the bottom, where the stud goes, there is a threaded nut that you tighten to the bottom of the cradle. It's almost impossible to put the mounts in partially. You would know instantly if you didn't get them in all the way.

You just want to support the motor so it doesn't drop when you remove the mounts. Snugging up the main nuts will pull the motor up into place. It's easy!

Don't obsess over this job, as others have said it is easy. I installed RSS mounts but the process is the same. Some have suggested applying penetrating oil to make the removal a bit easier.

Did this two weeks ago. You will be getting the engine cradle all the way up when you tighten the two nuts properly. You can't really reach the correct torque specs until you have the engine cradle all the way up. Also, don't be surprised when upon installation of the new mounts that you need to raise the engine further to get the nut on the new engine mount. If your engine mounts are as worn as mine were, you will be able to get the nuts off the old mount studs after only raising the engine a bit, but will then need to raise the engine further once you have the new engine mounts in place. This is logical if you consider how much lower the old engine mount studs would have been sitting relative to the chasis. As others have said above, don't sweat this job--it is simple and will make a huge difference in your driving experience.

Thanks everyone. I think I get it. I�ll just need to raise the motor enough that the square hole in the carrier mates up with the square base of the new mount, and then torque it down. I appreciate all the tips and advice!

If I can do it, anyone can do it! You will be amazed at the difference.

Ordered mine for this also.

You'll do great. Once you start removing things and making space so that you can get your hands on them I bet it'll all click.

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Thanks @Dr_Strangelove I guess I need to learn to stop worrying and love the mount

When I did mine, I opened the engine cover lid and checked the top of engine to make sure it didn�t smash into anything.

One more question: is a hockey puck a sufficient pad for the jack or do I need a larger piece of wood to spread the load across the sump plate?

So, as mentioned in a few other posts, you're not "jacking up the engine"... you're just keeping it from falling when you remove the bottom nuts from the engine mounts. There's a little square "extension" toward the rear of the engine where the case halves come together - if you put your hockey puck under it and raise your jack until there's tension on it (you're not trying to "lift" the engine and by extension the entire rear end of the car), you'll be fine (remember, the front of the engine is attached to and being held up by the transmission). If you're worried about using this point, then yes use the sump plate, but make sure the pressure is at the edges and not the center of the plate (ie- don't use the hockey puck). Good luck

I totally get that I�m not jacking up the car from the engine but just supporting the engine weight. Although as others have pointed out, there is a small amount of slack that has to be taken up from an old drooping mount. I�ve read conflicting views on the best way to apply the jack for this purpose. The Pelican/101 projects guide shows the Jack right on the sump plate. The pad in this jack looks wider than a hockey puck, which is what prompted my question. I�m nervous about that spot on the engine case being too small to be stable. What you�re saying about staying toward the edge of the sump plate makes sense - it�s going to be stronger there. I still would want the puck or another pad or the edges of the jack head would dig right into the metal, right?

It is simple, just use a piece of wood. Put some lift on one side of the oil pan sump cover. Remove ONE motor mount on the side you put the jack on to support the engine. Replace motor mount, then move over to the other side and do the same thing. It really is about that simple.

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I see what you did there...

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^^^ Yeah... I wouldn't do it like that! If you want to use the sump plate, lift from the edges... better safe than sorry (cracked sump plate no good!)

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+1. Yep. I used a 2� 2x4. 2x4s are soft (pine), so it will dent, which is good when it�s up against metal.

I�ve got some 1ft sections of 2x10 that I place under the wheels for oil changes. I was going to use them for this job too, but maybe I�ll steal one from the front wheels to use as a jack pad. I like the suggestion to move the jack to the side where you�re changing the mount. I watched a YouTube video where the guy jacked in the middle and the engine dropped down on the side where he removed the mount. He had to get a second jack to lift that side back up.

Here is my solution. It worked well, and I did have to give the jack a small pump or two after removing the old mount, to get the engine to meet the new one. It was definitely time for new mounts. My exhaust tips are much closer to the bumper now and you can see why. Old one on the left and new one on the right. Now I just need to put the smog pump and air box back in place and start it up!