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YOUR RESEARCHFor those who know how to detail/buff
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Clean paint right now
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The pic with some tape on the door handle was a spot I had to spray with a little paint because last summer when I parked the car I buffed and just in a flash nicked the door handle with the single stage buffer and cleaned the paint right now..
Leading evidence: 'Clean paint right now' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean pad' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I have used 3M buffing pads with good results along with 3M compounds.
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Wet sanded after drying to 2000 grit and used the buffing compound pictured below.
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My single buffer is equipped with a wool pad which I used last night on the car.
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I used medium compound then #5 fine cut then the #3 polish.
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The pic with some tape on the door handle was a spot I had to spray with a little paint because last summer when I parked the car I buffed and just in a flash nicked the door handle with the single stage buffer and cleaned the paint right now..
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Suggestion · Original poster
that guy is amazing lol a lot of these vids I watch though skip over the small details like what the different pads they use are called and which compounds they are using unless its there own product.
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Suggestion · Original poster
that guy is amazing lol a lot of these vids I watch though skip over the small details like what the different pads they use are called and which compounds they are using unless its there own product.
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Hi all, I didn't want to put this in my build thread as its simply about gaining some knowledge from those who know how to buff paint and doesn't really pertain to my engine swap/build.
I'll try to shorten it up and not drag on. The skinny is I've been painting cars for years but have never done the buffing(always paid others to) this summer I painted some cars and the owners wanted me to buff them as well. So I got to learn how to buff on other peoples cars.. sorry for snickering about that lol but for the most part they came out quite well.
So now that I know the basics of buffing I would love to hear from those who really know how to do it and get some critiques.
Below is my 911 that I started re-clear coating this week. As I'm just not happy with how it came out and after the track day(rock chips abound) last summer and parking next to factory paint jobs I want it to look better. I sanded it down to 800 grit then put on another 3 layers of clear. Wet sanded after drying to 2000 grit and used the buffing compound pictured below. it looks really good but knowing what I now know(not much) I think it could get a little better. there is still a very light haze on it.
Any suggestions, knowledge, experiences anyone could share? I've only done these two panels so far and have plenty more to do and really want this pearl paint to stand out.
FYI I have a 6" single action variable speed buffer and a very nice 6" dual action buffer as well. The pics below are using the single action.
After wet sanding
After clear coating
After wet sanding with 2000 grit and buffing with the #5 McGuire's compound.
I'm by no means an expert, but I have buffed and painted a few cars. To get a deep mirror finish you need to do a multi-stage buff. Start with a more aggressive compound and then move up from there to a finishing/glaze. At minimum, 3 stages, some people do 4. There are different pads as well. My uncle, who does this for a living, set me up with a thicker wool pad for stage one and then two different foam pads for subsequent stages.
I�m no expert either but
@charlieaf92
is right that you need a multi stage buff. At the very least, follow up your current stage with a finishing polish and then a sealant (wax or polymer). You�ll see a huge difference from that alone, as the finishing polish will remove that haze and the sealant will add a layer of gloss.
If you really want to get knowledgeable about paint correction, check out the AmmoNYC channel on YouTube. Larry Kosilla is to detailing what Jake Raby is to Porsche engines. They have a whole video course on detailing that you can watch for free and it�s very good.
lol thanks man.. really appreciate it. Its been a slow process to get back to this project. been an interesting summer for us but .. I truly believe I'm blessed and you take life as it comes. this mean greenie is going to get done one way or another lol
Thanks for the input. I've watched a couple videos today and it looks like ya multiple stages. I just need to figure out which compounds and which pads to use. My single buffer is equipped with a wool pad which I used last night on the car. so I need to find out which foam pads to use and from what I'm seeing in the vids .. I should do those stages with the foam pads.
I know I can get better out of this clear coat.. lol
I have watched his vids before.. that guy is amazing lol a lot of these vids I watch though skip over the small details like what the different pads they use are called and which compounds they are using unless its there own product. that's where I get hung up at my local parts store looking for products to use. The McGuires I'm using is just from trial and error. Although tonight on the way home I'm going to stop and get some pads and see what that does.
I wish you and I lived in the same town! I'm a buffer, you're a painter, we'd make a great team!
PM me please, I'd like to start a dialog about painting, I want to add painting to my skill set.
You have the right idea, start with coarse and step it down to finer coarseness. This applies to sanding and buffing. If you take too big of a step you will have residual scratch marks left in the finish. I have used 3M buffing pads with good results along with 3M compounds. Fresh clear is soft and easy to buff, I suggest going over what you have with the 3M white pad #05723 with one step05973 and then finishing with the 3M dark pad #05725 with 39009 which is a swirl remover for dark colors but works really well on all colors.
Its not that far of a drive
lol
I will with out shame say.. its a skill to do what I see some of these detailers do. I've watched them for years when they would come and do a car I just painted and wow they can really bring a paint job to life.
I've also watched the not so good ones burn right through the paint in seconds.. detailing is a skill.. I want to learn it better.
The pic with some tape on the door handle was a spot I had to spray with a little paint because last summer when I parked the car I buffed and just in a flash nicked the door handle with the single stage buffer and cleaned the paint right now.. instantly...
you sir.. are my superman for the day. THANK YOU!!!
I'm on it. the paint store in my town has these supplies but I never new which ones to buy. tonight.... I buff like a pro !!! (70's adult move music playing in the background *brown chicken brown cow*)
To keep things simple, I ordered a set of three foam pads from Chemical Guys that are meant for heavy/medium/fine polishing. And then I got the Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate polish to use with the medium and fine pads. I was very happy with the results on my 10 year old BMW factory paint.
Going from 2000 grit to polish is not ideal. You need to cut then polish. What pads do you have? If you pm me I can get you set up with supplies at wholesale if you need anything.
years ago I read a car craft article when I painted my first car(1982 firebird) and it said to sand down to 2000 grit and then move to the buffing but they might have meant a cutting compound and I was just to na�ve to understand.
I will pm you for supplies as I have more projects then just the Porsche that I'm working on.
Thanks
We have come a long way from the 80s for sure. I don't go back that far but it use to just be rotaries and wool pads. Basically even though you are using a polish and pad you are still 'sanding' so just like if you sanded wood with 500 grit you would go over it with 1000 then 1500 and so on. So you hit your paint with 2000 grit and your pad and polish combo might only be capable of removing 4000 grit so you want that in between step. Anyone is welcome to PM, I always extend my wholesale discount to enthusiasts, so anything from Detailed Image I can get for you.
Hey guys basically lots of pics of what I did last night. \
I stopped by the parts store and bought an orange foam pad and black foam pad. they were labeled medium cut and polish. I already have the wool pad and used it on the two panels already. I used medium compound then #5 fine cut then the #3 polish. It did shine up a little more. for the rear quarter panel I'll try a little more of things discussed in this thread.
They did have the 3M products but the price on them ... $70 for one bottle of polish.. I couldn't justify that kind of money vs the McGuires at $15 a bottle.
how did I do?
notice the reflection in this pic vs the pic below. buffed and unbuffed
Same here, door panel buffed and rr qtr not buffed.
door vs rr qtr you can really see the orange peel in the rr qtr panel.
hood is not buffed, fender is buffed. notice the reflection.
Looks pretty good, you definitely wanna take a look at it in the sun when you get a chance. How often are you cleaning the pad? If you don't clean it you are going to see demising results with every pass. If you have compressed air blow it out while spinning it. If not I usually use a few spritz of Optimum No Rinse, or just water, spin it up and hit it with a stiff bristle brush and then swap to a MF towel and hold it against it while spinning.
