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YOUR RESEARCHPreventative maintenance before winter
Leading reported evidence
Fill with good washer fluid
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Be sure the windshield washer reservoir is filled with good washer fluid that won't freeze or slush up in real cold weather and the wipers are new.
Leading evidence: 'Fill with good washer fluid' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check body water drains' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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You need the entire ignition lock replaced - not just the electrical piece on the end.
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Not too many months back there was a thread here from someone in Canada that ran a higher viscosity of oil -- IIRC 5w-40 -- and engine trouble resulted and his diagnosis was he used the wrong -- too high - viscosity oil for his climate conditions, for the ambient temperature conditions where he was.
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Suggestion
The foam from the vents, based on my reading of the forum is foam in the vents that's supposed to be there to change air direction but has deteriorated over the years.
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Suggestion
If one strays away from running 0w-40 year 'round one has to be aware of that at winter time what oil is just fine for summer use is not just fine for winter use.
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Hi everyone,
Happy Monday! Over the next few months I will be doing some routine maintenance before the colder months....just air/cabin filters as well as and oil change and brake flush. I park my car outside year round so obviously in the winter it gets a bit tough to do any DIY work.
This will be the car's second winter in Chicago, its been a Florida car its whole life. Last year I had pretty weak heat and didn't address it. I also have some foam pieces coming out of the vents every so often when AC is on. Any idea what this is?
Secondly, when it was very cold in the winter, upon shutting off the car and taking the key out, there was a bit of a delay before the ignition made that "click" sound to tell you that the key had been removed.
Just want to address these "issues" sooner than later. No issues with the key now as it's warm out. Thanks in advance!
****, the way you wrote the title, I thought you live in Alaska and winter is next week.
The foam from the vents, based on my reading of the forum is foam in the vents that's supposed to be there to change air direction but has deteriorated over the years.
Don't know much about the ignition click.
Haha thanks for the replies. I'm off for a few weeks soon so would gladly spend some time on the 996 while the work schedule allows. That's why I'm being overly dramatic
may I suggest cleaning the rads out. did mine this weekend and glad I did.
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this thread reminded me I have a skidoo clutch to replace.
I had the exact same problem. I have a post about it here somewhere. The delayed click you hear is the steering lock not wanting to come out after the key is turned off and the car will not shut the electrics off until it pops out. You need the entire ignition lock replaced - not just the electrical piece on the end. I'll send you my old one so you can see whats going on.
Or swing by my house in Akron and I'll swap it for you in an hour.
Thanks for the tips. Will search those 2 issues. I bet I'm SOL on heater flaps without reading things apart.
Hey its not 100 here lol. I should have changed my thread to just "preventative maintenance"
Given your location I'd advise when you change the oil/filter to use 0w-40 oil for the best cold temperature start and operation lubrication. Porsche requires 0w-40 in temperatures below -25C which is -13F.
I like the advice to clean the radiator ducts. I'd add check the body water drains.
The battery wants to be in good condition. Cold temperatures really hammer a battery. Be sure you drive the car often enough and long enough to recharge the battery after the start and then some unless you can connect a good battery charger/maintainer.
Be sure the coolant is good to the lowest expected temperatures in your area. If it hasn't been done in say 4 years you should consider draining and refilling the coolant system with fresh mix of anti-freeze and distilled water.
Be sure the windshield washer reservoir is filled with good washer fluid that won't freeze or slush up in real cold weather and the wipers are new.
Someone has already given you good advice regarding the key and ignition switch behavior.
Give the inside surfaces of the glass a good streak free cleaning. The inside surfaces develop a film that seems to promote fogging in cold weather.
Before the weather gets bad treat the car to a full wash and detailing -- at least a good waxing -- to help the body shed dirt and the other stuff winter use gets on the car.
I'd just add that take care of any while possibly small issues important ones nonetheless. You should do this regardless of the upcoming season but going into winter especially in areas where winter can be harsh and hard on cars letting small issues go is asking for it. This includes the key/switch issue, any burned out bulbs, a slow leak in a tire, a bit of hesitation when starting, anything out of the ordinary.
The foam is normal. There are foam seals around the ducts where they connect the vents and over time they come apart and come through the vent.
It sounds like your steering lock assembly (the tumblers) are going bad. This tech article
here
should be helpful. (Figure 4).
The pelican write up is an excellent guide. I just did it this weekend. But removing the gauge cluster does not help. In their pics it looks like it helps get the hard bolt out, but I think that is only because on those pics they have removed the steering wheel housing also? I thought about doing that but it's not necessary.
Well, I have no desire to turn your thread into oil thread or anything other than what it started out to be but I just wanted to reinforce how important the right multi-grade viscosity oil is for low (or high) temperature operation.
Not too many months back there was a thread here from someone in Canada that ran a higher viscosity of oil -- IIRC 5w-40 -- and engine trouble resulted and his diagnosis was he used the wrong -- too high - viscosity oil for his climate conditions, for the ambient temperature conditions where he was. Being he was in Canada the coldest temperatures were down in or even below the -25C and 5w-40 was just not up to it.
While 5w-40 has a good temperature range in some regions the temperatures just get too low for 5w-40 which is why 0w-40 exists. If one strays away from running 0w-40 year 'round one has to be aware of that at winter time what oil is just fine for summer use is not just fine for winter use.
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