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YOUR RESEARCHFinish on turbo twists
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Use aggressive polishing compounds
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Suggestion
If you don't get anywhere after using the aggressive polishing compounds, that's where I start wet sanding with 800 which would surely remove it for sure.
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Use lightest cut polishing compound(ie swirl remover) first
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Suggestion
Try using the lightest cut polishing compound(ie swirl remover) first to see if it removes it and get more aggressive if need be.
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Use aggressive polishing compounds
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Suggestion
If you don't get anywhere after using the aggressive polishing compounds, that's where I start wet sanding with 800 which would surely remove it for sure.
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Hello gents,
I bought a set of turbo twists and the coating is a little yellow in spots. Maybe from salt. Brake dust. Dunno.
Is there a way to fix this? Buff it out?
It would be a shame to get then re-finished when the wheels them selves are in really good shape.
Thanks
Rod
Mine were scratched when i bought them. I repainted them and like the results. Three coats of silver wheel paint and two coats of clear coat. Look like new .Of course priming and sanding
I had some stains on my wheels and buffed off some paint and made it worse. So be careful. Any chance you waxed the wheels? The BMW had brake dust issues and read to wax the wheels and they will be easier to clean. Turns out not to be true. But I was left with some areas yellowing. And I could not clean the yellow off. But over time it went away on its own.
Reason why I say, is there's a good chance you can either polish this out or wet sand/polish it out if it's just isolated to the top layers of the clear coat. I've done this a couple times in the past to some wheels that had some race compound brake dust caked on. Either way, I would try this option out first. Try using the lightest cut polishing compound(ie swirl remover) first to see if it removes it and get more aggressive if need be. If no polishes work, you can always wetsand with 800 grit sand paper and work your way up from there.
^what he said but I'd start with a less aggressive sand paper for wet sanding. a 1500 or 2000 grit will get most imperfections out of the clear wheels clear coat and you will have less scratches/swirls to buff out with a wheel buffer
I stated 800 because there are polishes that are equivalent to 1500-2k and is a lot easier to work with than using sanding discs as they are more forgiving and reduce user error. As stated, start out with a swirl remover which starts close to 2k grit equivalent and goes up as the micro particles dissolve. If that doesn't take it out, I would move onto more aggressive polishing compounds. I've worked with polishing compounds that emulate as low as 1200grit. If you don't get anywhere after using the aggressive polishing compounds, that's where I start wet sanding with 800 which would surely remove it for sure.
Meguiars 105/205 combo is pretty popular. If you wanna go semi-high end or more boutique shall I say then Menzerna SIP/106FA is the equivalent and has the same kind of popularity. Some say Menzerna combo is really made for medium to light duty though.
You'll want to make sure you have the right cutting/polishing pads if you don't already for the best results.
Ditto on the comments about a drill and buffer ball.
As for a swirl remover, I prefer starting with something less aggressive and build up, if needed. I've found that Wolfgang's Total Swirl Remover 3.0 is a great middle of the road swirl remover. It's aggressive enough to get most jobs done without much pressure and it doesn't require a lot of subsequent paint correction. Typically it pairs well with a good glaze as a follow-up.
If that doesn't get the job done then you can turn towards a heavier duty compound or polish but if your wheels are as well cared for as you described then you probably don't want or need something more aggressive to begin with.
Just my non-professional $.02,
-Eric
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