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the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

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YOUR RESEARCHthe FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

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Install solution himself

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A buddy of mine installed the Solution himself.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996
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Check debris

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Suggestion

Drop the pan to check for debris.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996
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Leading evidence: 'Install solution himself' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check debris' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Replace fluid flush, all fluids

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Fluid flush, all fluids were changed out.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Replace horn frame

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And yes, I recently replaced the horn frame with a brand spanking new one.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Check debris

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Suggestion

Drop the pan to check for debris.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Check engine drive

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Suggestion

Every warning on the display says "Check Engine Drive to Workshop" hahaha - nice message when your engine just went BANG.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996
Frequently discussed actions (10)

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Check debris

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Suggestion

Drop the pan to check for debris.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Check engine drive

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Suggestion

Every warning on the display says "Check Engine Drive to Workshop" hahaha - nice message when your engine just went BANG.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Check metal & plastic bits and bore scope

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Suggestion

Checking trims, camshaft deviation, drop sump plate, check for metal & plastic bits and bore scope.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Check trims, camshaft deviation, drop sump plate

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Suggestion

Checking trims, camshaft deviation, drop sump plate, check for metal & plastic bits and bore scope.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Check wheels

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Suggestion

Check wheels for run-out, balance

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Clean engine well and drive it

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Suggestion

Then clean the engine well and drive it.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Clean front radiators

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Suggestion

Clean the front radiators

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Clean radiators (free)

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Suggestion

8) Clean radiators (Free)

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Install solution himself

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

A buddy of mine installed the Solution himself.

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996

Replace (oil, trans, brake)(send oil

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Suggestion

1) Major fluid changes (oil, trans, brake)(send oil for analysis)

the FIRST FIVE things to replace on a new 996
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54 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

We have heard about the big fixes, but what little niggly things should we replace as a matter of PM for our cars? I've heard of expansion tanks, there's a thread on the AOS coolant hose nipple, so what would you place in the Top Five on your list to order and install on a new-to-you 996? 1. Coolant hose connector 2. 3. 4. 5.

POST 2Original post

Every suspension link with a rubber joint, motor and trans mounts. These parts are aged out for our cars and will give u the best performance bang for your buck.

POST 3Original post

It's easy to start throwing new parts on, and in some cases it might be ok. It will also depend on the records you have and how the car was cared for. I always highly advise to start with fresh oil/filter, air filter, transmission fluid. I also did plugs and coils as it was a fairly inexpensive thing to do, if you can wrench.

POST 4 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Can a normal person get to all of the plugs from up top, or from under?

POST 5Original post

From under. Some can do it without removing the mufflers. Its much easier if u do remove them but u risk breaking more harware.

POST 6Original post

These probably falls into that big fixes category and of course it also depends on what maintenance has been done previously but here are my top things - pick any that feel suitable. Oils - not only engine which is the obvious yearly routine but also differentials, transmission etc Suspension - not only shocks but bushings, ball joints, cv boots, top hats etc - rubber dries and that causes major issues on the driveability and overall enjoyment Engine - AOS, all supporting other accesories like alternator, water pump etc but only these if there are issues - well, AOS could be changed just in case if there's something else that requires either dropping the engine or otherwise wipe the left side of the engine area

POST 7Original post

Quotes source post: 17085201

Definitely not the top. The furthest back coil and plug will be very tough with the exhaust in the way. Maybe not if you have hands the size of a 5yr old Removing the mufflers is actually not hard at all. Just make sure you soak them with PB Blaster first. While there it's just a good idea to replace that hardware.

POST 8Original post

Quotes source post: 17085201

Step 1. Read, read and read some more on what it takes to service this car and then if you can't find the information, post a thread. Here is my 2 Canadian cents worth of suggestion: First thing anyone should do is drive their car for a bit to see what feels out of norm and then work on it to fix it.

POST 9 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

If I can try to steer the conversation with the idea that we would like to do a ton of things, but wouldn't we want to drive the car for 2,500 miles or 6 months in order to sort out our purchase before dumping bigger bucks into it? However, are there some things that we might do or replace that don't cost an arm and a leg, but are well-worth doing right away?

POST 10Original post

I just got mine this year. Here's my list of big things I did, or am doing. 1. Plugs & coil packs 2. Clean the front radiators 3. Fluid flush, all fluids were changed out. Power steering, brake, coolant, 4. Clutch and rear main seal. I replaced everything in between the engine and the transmission. Everything. The IMS was done just before I got it. 5. Water pump, thermostat, and hoses. Doing that next year. Replacing the motor mounts while there. 6. Winter tires. Best,

POST 11Original post

Quotes source post: 17085286

YES! instead of a battery tender, dust cover and SOS pads up the pipes!

POST 12Original post

Drop the pan to check for debris. Then clean the engine well and drive it. Will be easier to notice any leaks. If the tires are old or not of descent quality replace and then get an alignment. With this they can look at the suspension and make sure it is in spec.

POST 13Original post

If I were to purchase another 996, here is what I would do: 1) The IMS Solution (with pre-qualification testing) & RMS 2) Clutch (if needed) 3) UAOS 4) Tires 5) Water pump/T-stat/Serpentine belt I would do all the work myself(except tires) so I'd be looking at ~$3500-4500. But I wouldn't stop there: 6) 997 Shifter 7) �ro Plastic coolant flange ($16) 8) Clean radiators (Free) 9) R&R Control arms & control arm links (It will probably need it) 10) Exhaust (LOTS of options) 11) Struts & shocks (I would go with Feal coilovers)

POST 14Original post

1. The engine. 2. The engine. 3. The engine. 4. The engine. 5. The engine. ((((((BOOOOOOM)))))) hahaha

POST 15Original post

Quotes source post: 17085298

Keep the Battery Tender on the list. Here's my current scorecard with 12 volt life expectancy ......'04 C4s -7 yrs '95 VW Euro Camper -8yrs '13 Subaru Crosstrek -7yrs '02 HD Fatboy -8years '03 Honda RC 51 -9 years '04 Vespa LX150 8 years.

POST 16Original post

Quotes source post: 17085391

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POST 17Original post

Quotes source post: 17085366

You can do your own IMS Solution pre-qualification and testing? Interesting How does that work?

POST 18Original post

all of the above (Except replace engine) 1. motor mounts, these get overlooked, but super easy job 2. i 2dn on the shifter, i installed the 997 factory one, easy job and way improved shifter feel 3. agree drive the car see what shakes out. i just did struts and sway bar links\new tires, massive improvement. inspect everything underneath while in there. 4. oil change, get the LN drain plug 5. trans fluid, easy job, nice to know when it was done

POST 20Original post

Quotes source post: 17085496

A buddy of mine installed the Solution himself. Anyone can buy and install it if they wish.

POST 22Original post

Quotes source post: 17085211

In other words, no need to touch the coils until you get a trouble code for a misfire.

POST 23Original post

Quotes source post: 17085587

True But he said he was going to do the �pre-qualification testing�. Why mention that if you�re doing the work yourself?

POST 24Original post

The first 6 things are always to do with getting the car to a known stable state. Repeating items from above: 1) Major fluid changes (oil, trans, brake)(send oil for analysis) 2) IMS Solution (RMS & clutch at the same time) 3) Cooling system work: Coolant expansion tank, waterpump, thermostat, & AOS coolant nipple. What other plastic connectors are in the coolant system that are waiting to crumble like the AOS connector? 4) Brakes, as needed 5) Plugs & coil packs 6) Alignment. Check wheels for run-out, balance Then the fine tuning and fun replacements can begin

POST 25 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 17085574

The 85% of the guys on here that don't have the time, skills or equipment to do the sophisticated things...

POST 26Original post

Quotes source post: 17085646

Pre-requisites are available on-line. I'd think it would be smart to perform those BEFORE ordering the IMS Solution.

POST 27Original post

Quotes source post: 17085760

How do you know what "85% of the guys" wants? I think it's just you that wants to know and there is no we. There is no shame asking for yourself, no need to hide behind some "We".

POST 28Original post

Quotes source post: 17085646

Checking trims, camshaft deviation, drop sump plate, check for metal & plastic bits and bore scope. Do all that before buying the IMS Solution. Why install The IMS Solution on a failing engine. If it fails pre-Qual, it�s likely time to rebuild.

POST 29Original post

All I've replaced in the past 3 years was a bugged out LCD climate control screen. Then touched up the center console and refreshed the leather seats. The IMS retro was done by a shop after I'd already driven the car for 3,000 miles. Everything noted are replacement as needed, and very well DIY'able. I wouldn't consider them "musts" outside of an IMS retro or solution.

POST 30Original post

My list might not be for everyone, but this is what I've collected so far to get my recently acquired 50k mile 996 C2 track ready: 1. Bilt Racing 2qt sump pan spacer with baffle kit 2. IMS Solution (clutch replacement at the same time) 3. Ultimate AOS 4. Safety equipment (GMG rollbar, racetech seats, BK mounts Schroth 6pt harnesses) 5. Grip (Fikse FM10s, Nitto NT01s, brake pads. GT3 springs and shocks) My goal is to have a capable 996 that maintains it's Carrera appearance.

POST 31Original post

Quotes source post: 17085482

The difference between me and the debbie downers of this forum is THEY are serious, and I'm not. Have a laugh phil!

POST 32 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 17085867

...so, you are THAT guy, huh? If you'll read my message again, you'll note that the 85% is a guess about the number of members on this forum that aren't up to doing the types of fixes that at being suggested by those that really know their stuff. The OP was hoping to get a list of things that most of us could accomplish with normal DIY skills. Hope this helps.

POST 33Original post

Quotes source post: 17086074

You should have included that in the OP. That would have certainly changed my list. Most people can wash their car and change their oil, and that's probably about it. Even the plastic coolant flange can be too much if there are broken pieces in the hose.

POST 34 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I'm from another country, and maybe, "little niggly things", meant different to me, so mea culpa! Anyway, if the coolant flange is something to do, how about the expansion tank; are they all getting brittle, and if so, what the heck makes their price range run from $68 to $604? I'd be inclined to get the aluminum coolant flange, but would rather get an inexpensive tank and replace it every 5 years?

POST 35Original post

Quotes source post: 17085286

I've had my '00 Cab for less than two months, less than 1k miles driven. The first week I took the bumper off to thoroughly clean out the radiators & condensers. I just checked them and there is a BUNCH more leaves back in there! Is there a vacuum mode switch I need to turn off? I didn't really want to put grills over the intake but might change my mind.

POST 36Original post

Quotes source post: 17086200

If you're going to keep the car long term and DIY, buy all your maintenance parts (including water pump and expansion tank) from FCP Euro. Pay once and replace every three years (or sooner).

POST 37Original post

I�ve done plugs and coils, oil fill tube, water pump, thermostat, alternator, motor mounts, expansion tank, serpentine belt and an oil change since I bought the car this summer. Reading posts, most of this sounds like wise replacements if you don�t have much history on the car. I found the water pump had been replaced but not sure when (I have around 57k miles) because I could see the gasket had been cut. The only part that left me stranded so far was the alternator. Next up would be injectors and maybe a UAOS. I have a used magnetic LN oil drain plug for the next oil change and I�ll probably drop the sump to see if anything�s in there. Yes there is evidence of oil leaks. No idea what�s been done with RMS or IMSB yet.

POST 38Original post

Quotes source post: 17085169

Here is my order. Keep in mind this also depends on if you have service history records that show these items being replaced within that last year. 1. Maintenance (oil change, air filter, cabin filter, wipers, trans fluid, brake fluid) 2. Air/oil Separator and hoses (these are made from plastic and will deteriorate and crack with age. it's best to get a head of this) 3. Suspension overhaul (sway bar bushings and links, control arms, and tie rods) 4. Hood Crest and wheel center caps (there's a good chance these are old, scratched, and faded/oxidized and new emblems can really freshen up the exterior) 5. Clean out any leaves from the front radiator and condenser (and think about upgrading to CSF radiators)

POST 39Original post

The first 5 things I fixed on my 180k mile 996 were: front driver's side driveshaft both CV boots; front passenger's side driveshaft both CV boots; gas flap door hinge; oil & filter change; driver's seat cushion foams, stretchy mat, and seat base plastic part. Ha, just see FCP's posting - the maintenance parts came from FCP Euro and the seat parts from Gaudin Porsche.

POST 40Original post

This is a great list for new 996 buyers because it is a great illustration of what we mean when we say "lots of things can happen." I am 100% on board with the buy it and drive it - then fix it mentality. I've had mine 5 years and my list of things can get up to 5 only if I include aesthetic choices as well. In chronological order: 1) New wheels - hated aftermarket it came with 2) IMSB retrofit 3) Clutch (same time as IMSB but making separate item) 4) Both window regulators (needed one, did both.) 5) Converting trunk from fake aerokit to stock (in progress) That's it for me. This has been a stout little car. Edit: ah crap I just realized there were new tires in there between 3 and 4, so that's 6 for you

POST 41Original post

b3freak's top nitpicky things about the Porsche 996: Engine: 1. Ticking - usually, cylinder bore scoring, but could be loose spark plugs for example. 2. Ferrous metal in the filter - points to IMS bearing failure 3. Plastic bits in the sump - chain guide material 4. Excessive smoking at the tailpipe - usually faulty AOS 5. Leaking oil - RMS or IMS Flange addendum: 6. Chocolate Milkshake (Intermix) - usually a crack in the head. NOT faulty head gasket 7. Misfires - usually faulty coil packs 8. Broken Oil Filler tube 9. Cracked or leaking Coolant Expansion Tank 10. Broken Water Pump impellers - bad water bump - leads to overheating 11. Fuel pressure problems - faulty fuel pump, regulator, etc. 12. Fueling problems - Faulty vent valve 13. Emissions CEL - misfires, faulty MAF or modified exhaust systems, bad CAT, bad fuel injectors, faulty SAI, etc. 14. Stripped Oil plug 15. Vacuum leaks 16. Oil pressure drops 17. Every warning on the display says "Check Engine Drive to Workshop" hahaha - nice message when your engine just went BANG. 18. High cam deviations - worn chain guides, poor timing, etc. 19. Saggy tailpipes - worn engine mounts 20. Changing out an Alternator 21. Coolant hose leaks 22. Crank position sensor - starting issues Exterior: 1. Dirty Radiators 2. Electrical Issues with lighting 3. Drainage problems - usually around the sunroof, cabriolet top, or battery compartment - can lead to cabin flooding and damaging under-seat modules 4. Window drop problem 5. Faulty spoiler lift motor addendum: 6. unlocking issues - faulty actuators, lock assemblies, electrical, keyfob problems, etc. 7. Headlight washer breaks 8. Aging suspension components - e.g. rubber bushing dry rotted, ball joints, worn shocks, etc. 9. worn CV axles 10. worn wheel bearings Interior: 1. Soft-touch rubberized paint flakes or scratches off 2. Foam bits blowing out vents or NO heat - blend door problem with AC blower 3. Electrical gremlins - lots of examples (e.g. seat belt MIL, Airbag MIL, parasitic drain, etc.) 4. Crackling sound - Faulty window regulator 5. Door lock/unlocking issues - usually faulty door lock assembly addendum: 6. Faulty headlight switch 7. Faulty ignition switch 8. Keyfob RFID or alarm problems - usually means a new key programmed 9. LCD AC or center gauge display bubbles up or goes dim 10. Harman Becker MOST radio/speaker problems - usually issues with fiber optic connectivity, faulty frunk amplifier, security authorizing, aging speakers, etc. 11. Leather surfaces bubble up 12. Wood steering wheel and wood overlays crack 13. Cabriolet convertible top won't open correctly - numerous culprits in the system 14. Vanity mirror sag or have hinge problems. 15. Seat motors fail and make it impossible to remove the seat for repair 16. Horn silent

POST 42Original post

Quotes source post: 17087704

Holy crap! Have you experienced ALL of these?

POST 43Original post

Quotes source post: 17088906

No, my tangerine friend. Just been around the forums enough to sum up many of the common issues. Definitely not absolute, but what I can pull from memory.

POST 44 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 17088923

You must kill 'em at the poker table with a memory like that!

POST 45Original post

Quotes source post: 17085286

Alt 6. Transport my 996 to FL /X3

POST 46Original post

Quotes source post: 17087704

17. Center caps won't stay timed to valve stems

POST 47Original post

Not mentioned so far and maybe not a top 5, but most of us are going to experience the foam pieces coming out of the A/C vents. Mine finally quit blowing them out after several years, but of course now I have no control over air distribution. Not much heat either, but not a problem in FL. There are a few good DIYs that show how to fix it without pulling the dash out.

POST 49Original post

Quotes source post: 17090164

read#2 on my interior list.😉

POST 50Original post

I would hope a good ppi was done then based on records I the oil and water pump. If the imsb thing bothers you, that too. Why spend money on things that are fine. A durametric is a good too though I have had mine for 7 years and still can�t figure out. 🤪🤪

POST 51Original post

Quotes source post: 17089827

18. Steering wheel horn that beeps every time you go over a bump. I saw your "silent horn". And yes, I recently replaced the horn frame with a brand spanking new one.

POST 52Original post

Only had problem #12 off of @b3freak's list in my 2000 C4 Cab and I caused that problem myself by stupidly overfilling the tank. Otherwise, my 996 has been problem free. Knock on wood!

POST 53Original post

I'll add Oil Pressure Sending Unit to the list of things to replace. Easy to do (with a crows foot) and prevents heart stopping moments when it begins to crap out.

POST 54Original post

Quotes source post: 17090613

Sorry, B3. Didn't see it.

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