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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTicking at idle passenger side.
Leading reported evidence
Use black sealer
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Hmmmm, that black plastic is either from the IMS - chain tensioner or it's possible that a previous builder used black sealer for the cam covers, and/or engine halves and over did it a bit (what ever amount squeezes to the inside of the block can eventually make it to the oil sump...
Leading evidence: 'Use black sealer' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'noises were lifters' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check debris' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
Likely the noises were lifters that were not seeing enough oil pressure to stay pumped up, giving valve lash, and the resultant ticking sounds.
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Suggestion · Original poster
He wants to keep it for a few days to drain the oil and inspect the sump.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Hmmmm, that black plastic is either from the IMS - chain tensioner or it's possible that a previous builder used black sealer for the cam covers, and/or engine halves and over did it a bit (what ever amount squeezes to the inside of the block can eventually make it to the oil sump...
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Alright. Noticed slight intermittent tick from right side. Put 12 oz of swepco and tick became not so intermittent. Only does it at idle and after sitting for a while. No loss of power, oil looks good and so does pressure. Taking it in on Friday, but trying not to lose sleep until then.
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/828x1792/376ec47a_d487_4a68_8983_da0fd894c157_c0d86080f3f92db455c6cd8610015aac7b80c110.png
Ticking from bank 2 (passenger side) is most commonly caused by bore scoring. This is not to say it can�t possibly be something else, but it�s not likely. Generally speaking, additives may help quiet it down a bit temporarily, but won�t do anything in the long run.
Southwestern Petroleum Corporation. Their gear oil is big with the air-cooled crowd. I used it in my '70 911T trans and as a 50/50 mix with Redline in the BMW transmissions. I don't know anything about their other products.
Upload to U-tube, then upload the U-tube video to the forum.
U-tube accepts many more file formats than the forum does, but converts them to an acceptable forum format.
Just so you dont lose sleep over it.
My engine also had an intermitent ticking noise 2 years ago that we were unable to precisely identify even with the great help of the most knowledgeable people here.
The noise when away by itself (I guess..!) And never came back. At one point I was suspecting the Bank 2 cat or a lifter pressure problem but I cant confirm....
I had a bore scope done by the spark plugs holes and the oil pan with no evidence of bore scoring. It was actually the opposite, the bore and piston top were in good conditions, spark plugs were perfect ect
(Jake would probably have found something from the videos but for me it was a relief)
UOA was also very good.
Here's the links to my particular noise.
Cold start idle-up
You Tube
Engine warmed-up idle
You Tube
I really dont want to hi-jack your thread but maybe you can find a similarity and get some better sleep knowing my engine now run perfectly.
That noise never came back except for theses 2 occassions.
Sounds like a valve or lifter to me, but as Jake says in this video (
You Tube
) don't be fooled. Not sure about bore scoring as I'm new to 996s, but it sure sounds like valve and lifter problems I had with Volkswagon 16V engines and my various high mileage BMW M3s. Hope it's the latter. Good luck.
If the ticking is piston slapping cylinder walls, why only when warm and not cold? Expansion of metal when cold preventing the slapping?
Thanks for all the knowledge provided.
A lot of these cars tick. On one car I had a bad exhaust manifold gasket, another had a loose spark plug...most recently I have noticed driving the car pretty hard gets the sound to go away. I think that the lifters do not have much room or an orifice for them breath a bit. So they gut sticky and start to to tick. I drive kinda slowly normally so after I really put the car through it’s paces the noises go away.
This is the mindset I'm starting to get! I've only had mine a couple months now, and haven't been able to drive it much since it's winter. Initially i was freaking out about everything. Not worth losing sleep over!
There was a thread on here about ticking that was thought to be bores scoring/sticking lifters. After replacing all the lifters and ruling out bore scoring he found debris in the swirl pots, cleaned them out and the ticking went away.
Save your money.
Change oil often and drive your car.
Drop sump if concerned and check for debris.
Try not to get caught up in the 51 modes of failure.
No check engine light your good to go.
Wildbilly, I did. Of course we couldn�t produce the sound in front of him. He hooked up to his computer to make sure there was no crankshaft deviation. He said the results looked spot on, so that�s a relief. He wants to keep it for a few days to drain the oil and inspect the sump. Looking for any particles from time chain tensioner or pulley. Other than that, he drove it and said it felt solid. He even mentioned it had more power than other 996s he had driven which led him to believe it was possibly tuned.
Because the oil is way less viscous when hot, which allows the piston to make contact with the cylinder wall.
It�s counter-intuitive because a cold engine has higher piston to cylinder clearance because the piston is smaller at cold temperatures than hot temps. So while some engines are noisy when cold, piston slap can occur, the oil is very think and prevents most of the noise.
A very badly scored engine could very well knock at all temps, hot and cold.
Oh yeah! Why not just bury your head in the sand while you're at it? Look, if it is early bore scoring, there are things you can do to mitigate the damage and buy yourself some time while you drive it - and enjoy it. If you just ignore the problem it's only going to get worse, and probably a a quicker pace than it would if you treated it properly...
I believe this is the one that talks about living with bore scoring. The whole series is on youtube at Rennvision. You should really watch them all. Knowledge is power.
You Tube
Not everyone that buys a 996 wants to throw money at it
Heck, he still doesnt know if it a manifold gasket, lifter or scored bore
Its a what 12-15k car
Hard to start throwing money at it
Update:
My mechanic dropped the sump pan and found small pieces of PVC like plastic (black). He said it could be from when previous owner had new AOS installed. Some of the plastic pieces were covering about 2/3 of the oil intake screen. Once he cleaned it all out and put fresh oil in, tick is gone. He says most likely at low RPM idle, the clog was starving the engine for oil and creating the tick. He put fresh Motul 15w40 in and it�s even more quiet than it was.
Hmmmm, that black plastic is either from the IMS - chain tensioner or it's possible that a previous builder used black sealer for the cam covers, and/or engine halves and over did it a bit (what ever amount squeezes to the inside of the block can eventually make it to the oil sump... The fact that the mechanic said it might be from the AOS is alarming/disturbing (not sure which, but both fit the bill)... Let us know if the ticking at idle comes back when the engine heats up. Thanks for the update! I hope it stays quiet...
Metty,
I live in Woodland so same climate. I use Motul 5W-40. The 15w is going to be too thick for proper lubrication at cold startup in winter. Which shop are you using? I have never heard of an AOS R-R creating black plastic debris in the sump.
Dan
If the oil pick up was 2/3 blocked, the engine has seen damage. You can't block 2/3 of the oil inlet, and not see some sort of oil starvation issue at anything above idle.
Likely the noises were lifters that were not seeing enough oil pressure to stay pumped up, giving valve lash, and the resultant ticking sounds.
You'll see the results of this in the future.
An AOS failure or replacing an AOS does not contribute to black plastic in the oil sump. That shows the Technicians inexperience with these engines.
The common cause of black plastic bits in the sump is the main chain rails/guides and the IMS guides/tensioner pad.
Yes, there are many pictures of them in the forum..
just how well do you know your mechanic ? And just how experienced is he..
In other words what made you use them besides Porsche painted on the building?
^^ Those are the Cam Chain rails - they start out almost white and they turn a dark caramel brown after being exposed to hot/dirty
oil over a period of time. The main and IMS chain rails are black...
Nutty, I did. It�s so hard to replicate but mine was much more quiet. Since I had the pan dropped and oil intake tube cleaned and fresh 15w40 in its been even more quiet than before.
Oh thank goodness! I'm having a similar conundrum with my recent purchase. After reading and watching several of Jake's vids; I was concerned the number was going to be more like 10-15k! 5 grand isn't that bad. I'll start saving up ASAP.
