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YOUR RESEARCHReplacing Drop Links procedure question
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Adjust itself i guess
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The drop link made a powerful thunk sound and adjusted itself I guess when I did the test drive.
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when I fitted the new ones, the sway bar was under tension, needed to pry the sway bar when dismantling and fitting to align the holes.
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I had a sound like you are describing and I replaced the front drop links.
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Anyways for the top part I used an 18mm socket and and same in wrench to hold the back side, for the bottom I believe it was an 15 or 16mm with the wrench to hold the back side too.
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For me I had to load the suspension to get the holes to line up for the new drop links, just used a second jack I had, doesn't take much effort to lift it.
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Getting ready to replace front drop links as there is occasionally a high-pitched rattle from the front after it is all warmed up when going over bumps. Sounds like hand tools rattling in a small box. Drop links seem to be the most likely culprit but may not be, I know. Either way, 12 years, 74k miles, might as well even though I'm not KK...
Yes I searched but I cannot find A) any torque specs as to what to tighten the nuts to and B) if I need to use any anti-seize compound etc.
I am also assuming the car needs to be on jackstands with the wheels off or can it be done on ramps? And should the final tightening torquing be done with or without load on the wheels/suspension?
Thanks in advance for any tips. Car is an '02 C2.
According to Bentley manual, those are 63 ftlb for the strut end and 34 ftlb on the sway bar end. No need to load them when tightening. You may need a thin wrench to counter hold it from spinning. No anti-seize specified.
I did it on a lift but jackstands on both sides with wheels off should be fine.
If you are going to replace with OEM links then no need to load suspension. If you are going with adjustable links then you need to load the suspension.
Tighten the bleep out of them at the sway bar. If not, they may eventually loosen and strip the threads making them almost impossible to remove without just cutting the bolt. Ask me how I know....
Are those adjustable? If so, make sure to tighten the crap out of the adjustable length turnbuckle, too, or it will work itself longer and the sway bar will start striking your lower control arm(s) during cornering.
I just did this a few days ago, the ones on the car where adjustable, but the ones I got weren't. I may go back to adjustable. Anyways for the top part I used an 18mm socket and and same in wrench to hold the back side, for the bottom I believe it was an 15 or 16mm with the wrench to hold the back side too. For me I had to load the suspension to get the holes to line up for the new drop links, just used a second jack I had, doesn't take much effort to lift it. That's it, your done!
I had a sound like you are describing and I replaced the front drop links. Nothing changed and the sound is still there. Like you describe, the sound appears when the suspension is "warmed up" after driving several miles.
When I replaced mine, I had the front on jacks and tires removed. It was a very simple procedure to do, and even though it did not cure my car's problem I was happy to have replaced a wear item on my suspension.
I had my car jacked up, took a rubber hammer and hit gently under the drop links. The sound was reproducible. when I fitted the new ones, the sway bar was under tension, needed to pry the sway bar when dismantling and fitting to align the holes.
Also I fastened at the sway bar end without load. I would not do that again, will tighten with load next time. The drop link made a powerful thunk sound and adjusted itself I guess when I did the test drive. Just what my mechanic neighbour said I should do that I did not get
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