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YOUR RESEARCH996 3.4l no ignition on bank 2
Leading reported evidence
Check so far are
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Leading evidence: 'Check so far are' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'dme is firing the ignition coils as well' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cam signal off the dme' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
2) checked timing crankshaft/camshaft with the result that timing is correct.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
3) checked wiring to coils 4, 5 and 6, everything ok.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
1) changed coils and sparks from bank 1 to bank 2, but still the same problem
Test with a multi-meter pin2 of cylinder6 in connection
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
What belongs to grounding: I have already tested with a multi-meter pin2 of cylinder6 in connection with the chassis and it went through --> 0 Ohm.
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Suggestion
My guess would be to check your engine wiring harness for correct connections, unplug and clean the connectors both sides (male/female), make sure there is no corrosion and the pins are straight, then make sure they are properly engaged.
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dme is firing the ignition coils as well
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause
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Suspected cause
Also, if bank 2 gets fuel, that means the DME is firing the bank 2 injectors, which also means it's likely the DME is firing the ignition coils as well.
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Hello out there!
I am just new to this forum, because of having a problem. I hope anybody is out there who had the same problem and could solve it.
I just built up a 3.4 M96/01 engine and the problem is that bank 2 (cylinder 4, 5, 6) is without ignition!
Things i checked so far are:
1) changed coils and sparks from bank 1 to bank 2, but still the same problem
2) checked timing crankshaft/camshaft with the result that timing is correct.
3) checked wiring to coils 4, 5 and 6, everything ok.
Crankshaft sensor is new and working, engine is working on cylinder 1, 2 and 3 only...
What i am asking myself now is, if the problem could be the camshaftsensor on bank 2? Does anybody know for sure, if a working camshaft sensor signal is needed for the DME to produce ignition?
Thx for your answers!
Best regards!
For what I know, there is only one CPS. My guess would be to check your engine wiring harness for correct connections, unplug and clean the connectors both sides (male/female), make sure there is no corrosion and the pins are straight, then make sure they are properly engaged. Should be throwing a CEL code as well and that might lead to your problem.
Hello DBJoe996!
First of all, many thanks for your answer!
What do you mean with CPS? The round connection point (X59) where the male / female connectors come together?
I do have no codes in Durametric...
I also had a closer look at the two round connection points, especially to the cables / connections that are responsible for the spark on cylinder 4, 5 and 6.
I will disconnect them again and grind them a bit to get sure there is no corrosion.
What I am wondering is, why a complete bank is out of ignition? This is the point where I am thinking of a probably damaged camshaft sensor.
Your ideas are still welcome!!!
Best regards!
I suspect you have a bad ground of the bank 2 coils. Unplug one of the coils of bank 2 and check continuity of pin 2 of the harness side to ground (chassis). All the pin 2's of all the coils need to be grounded. Bank 1 and bank 2 have two different grounding points (GP 10 and 11 for bank 2 and 1, respectively). Wiring diagram shows these are at the top middle of the engine.
Then check the harness side pin 3 with key no engine off, they should have ~12v. The power is supplied by a common point that's connected to the coils in bank 1 as well.
Pin 1 is grounded by the DME (pulses) to fire the coils.
Hello Ahsai!
Many thanks for your support!
What belongs to grounding: I have already tested with a multi-meter pin2 of cylinder6 in connection with the chassis and it went through --> 0 Ohm.
Question on GP10 and GP11:
Are these the 2 points where 3 brown cables on each side come together, that were bolted at each cylinder head by a little M6 screw with a tiny shield? For bank 1 on the front end of the cylinder head and for bank 2 on rear end of the cylinder head?
I am asking for it because GP overview shows GP10 and GP11 not like that...
And you say "Wiring diagram shows these are at the top middle of the engine."
Is there perhaps a picture in the internet?
Between 2 and 3 I do have 12V when key is in position "ignition on".
Hope to read you soon!
Best regards!
Ok, yes, the brown 3 cables sounds like the correct one. I saw my bank 1 ground in the same location you said (right below the AOS). I've not tried to look for the bank 2 ground.
I agree that bank 2 cam sensor is the next suspect. Do you have a scope that you could check the CAM signal off the DME? You can just insert a tinny pin onto the correct DME pin and probe from there when you crank the engine.
2 hours ago i saw that 2 of 3 brown cables at the GP on bank1 near AOS have a poor fitting. after I pulled them a bit, the engine has now only spark on cyl.3 because it is the only one place at the manifold that gets warm. I will renew this connection tomorrow and see what is happening.
I do not have a scope to test bank 2 cam sensor :-(
I do not exactly understand what you mean with "You can just insert a tinny pin onto the correct DME pin and probe from there when you crank the engine".
best regards!
Yes, but I hope not! It is not a nice job working in that area with the car standing in a little garage :-(...
I do not remember exactly, but do the brown cables of the spark lines on each bank meet directly in 1 GP? Or is there anything between it?
Best regards!
Yea, you should definitely check the one corresponding to bank 2 as well.
Never mind the DME pin comment. I was thinking about back probing the DME but for 3.4 DME 5.2 it's not possible. You will have to disassemble the DME connector and tap from pin 21 (cam signal) to check it.
BTW, have you actually verified sparks directly (by seeing sparks) or you just go by checking the header temp? In other words, are you sure bank 2 has fuel and the injectors are firing properly?
I already thought about disassembling the DME connector to find out with the multimeter if signals are coming in and go out. I hope I can do it this way.
I did not see the sparks until now, because in most case I am on my own and I would need anybody to turn the key... but manifold on cyl. 1,2 and 3 got warm, I am sure to 100% they worked and i can smell it from the exhaust that 4,5 and 6 gets fuel.
But never the less, I will renew that GP on bank 1 and perhaps discconnect the GP on bank 2 and connect it somewhere else to the chassis with the starter cable.
Best regrads!
Sounds like a good plan. I know you already checked timing but have you checked the cylinders on bank 2 have compression? just trying to cover all bases...
Also, if bank 2 gets fuel, that means the DME is firing the bank 2 injectors, which also means it's likely the DME is firing the ignition coils as well. So it's unlikely the CAM sensor is the problem.
I did not check compression with manometer. I reworked all parts, of course including heads, valves etc... To cover all and being sure I should check it with manometer, but before I will visibly check the sparks on all 6 cylinders.
While assembling the engine, I turned the crankshaft many times with the heads on and I definately felt each cylinder compressing and the air coming out.
I will go on with it tomorrow and try things and give you a report about what happened.
Many thanks for your support!
I will come back to you tomorrow!
Best regards!
Your problem is not ignition. You have botched the camshaft timing procedureand have phased both banks of cylinders the same. You will have great compression, because you now have two, 3 cylinder enginesfiring the same.
I bet that when you finished the cam timing of bank 1, that you moved the cam timing tools directly to bank 2 and did not rotate the crankshaft 360* before setting the cam timing tools up?
This happens all the time, and I spend 4 hours on this in my classes. The factory manual leaves this process out entirely!!!!
Park the engine at TDC and lock the crank. Remove the exhaust cam sprocket bolts from bank 2. Remove crank lock and rotate the engine 360*, then lock the crank again, and set up the cam timing tools on bank 2. Replace exhaust cam sprocket bolts, and fire it up. You'll have all 6 cylinders again.
It will act just like you have no ignition, and you'll pass every test you throw at it, but it just won't run on bank 2 if this is the issue.
I actually didn't put it together so I will have to ask did they rotate it between banks. But if this would be the case would it not ignite when the exhaust valve was open and bang like crazy?
Not necessarily. If the valve timing is way out of phase the combustible mixture may be pushed away from the spark plug and thus there is nothing to ignite.
NO!!!!!!
Because the two banks are phased exactly the same! You are building compression on two cylinders at once and the engine is usually really hard to turn over (on the starter) because of this.
If this is the case you have created a pair of 3 cylinder engines, with valve timing exactly the same. The engine would run this way IF you had water spark ignition and could phase the ignition timing with the valve timing.
This is THE #1 newbie mistake, and its why people need to attend my classes.
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