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YOUR RESEARCHShould I Take a gamble.
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same porsche enthusiast
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Didn't realize it was the same Porsche enthusiast.
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Suggestion
Replacing directional rotors with unidirectional, straight vane rotors may cause a significant reduction in the venting and cooling of the brakes and hub.
Leading evidence: 'same porsche enthusiast' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'same porsche enthusiast' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace directional rotors' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace four rotors (slotted and drilled) and pads
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced all four rotors (slotted and drilled) and pads on my Acura for $150 with e-bay stuff.
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Suggestion
Replacing directional rotors with unidirectional, straight vane rotors may cause a significant reduction in the venting and cooling of the brakes and hub.
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Suggestion
Replacing an OEM rotor that has 35 cooling vanes with an economy rotor that has only 28 fins may not seem like a big deal, but a 20 percent reduction in cooling capacity could make a big difference with prolonged heavy braking.
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Suggestion
Worst case you replace the pads with something better
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Replace directional rotors
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Suggestion
Replacing directional rotors with unidirectional, straight vane rotors may cause a significant reduction in the venting and cooling of the brakes and hub.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Replacing an OEM rotor that has 35 cooling vanes with an economy rotor that has only 28 fins may not seem like a big deal, but a 20 percent reduction in cooling capacity could make a big difference with prolonged heavy braking.
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68 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T144035Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hey everyone. Had a question,
It's time to change the rear pads and rotors on my 911.
I found a deal that might be "too good too be true".
I wanted too know if
1: Has anyone bought anything from this seller
2: What should I be aware of
3: Is this brand made of cheese
4: SHOULD I TAKE THE GAMBLE.
I'm going to be honest this problem hit me unexpectedly and I'm not prepared too pay thousands of dollars on the rear pads and rotors ALONE, That is why I'm looking for something inexpensive.
I attached some pics of the add.. I'm also including the link if anyone wants to check it out...
http://m.ebay.com/itm/121521045055?fits=Make%3APorsche
Way too good to be true, drive away in the other direction.
Had my front pads and rotors replaced and it was north of $500 for parts and install as a comparator.
It's hard to imagine anything quality could be sold that cheaply.
There's a lot of effort involved in casting and machining rotors. Quality units run $300 and up just for two rotors.
For "average" pads, mfg cost alone would likely be around $15 per pad. Much more for decent pads.
If this is some sort of close out for discontinued inventory or something then it could be OK.
But unless I could find out more about the quality, I wouldn't trust these for brakes of a car I routinely use spiritedly.
There's just too much at stake with a parts failure.
It will work, but its E-bay stuff- so set your expectations. I replaced all four rotors (slotted and drilled) and pads on my Acura for $150 with e-bay stuff. 10k miles on them, and rotors still look great and pads stop the car.
Absolutely nothing wrong with Meyle rotors. I bought 4 of those rotors along with Akebono pads from Ebay. Work great!
HOWEVER, that price is too good to be true. I paid about $175 per axle, not including the sensors.
If you suspect that there is a catch, then most likely there is a catch. Don't be swayed by the brand names they display in the add. How do you know for sure what you're getting?
Used this on a friend's '00 C2. I did the job for him and at the time I thought I was working with Zimmermann rotors and Hawke pads...
When I asked him how much he paid for the setup I was blown away...
1 year and 12k miles later, and they're just as good as when I put them on for him. And he has a heavy foot too.
Oh as for the sensors I bypassed them, they're completely useless IMO. Unless you don't check your brakes visually then it's a primitive reminder for when your brakes are pretty much bare metal.
Don't think I could mentally handle that price for brakes and rotors.
Let's me say this there are plenty of places to save money and get away with budget after market parts. Brakes and Tires ain't one of them.
Come on every time you hit the brakes in the back your mind you will always have that will she stop question!
So, a big part of the "Psychology of Porsche ownership" is that we've come to expect high ( read often insanely high) prices for even the most mundane of replacement parts (i.e. brake rotors/pads). Granted these are safety related parts and you don't want to "cheap out"...BUT, why is it that comparable parts (I'm talking about steel rotors here - not ceramic or hybrid materials) are normally only a third to half the price of Porsche parts ?
LOL, Quadcammer comes through again with the filter off.
FWIW, if all those parts are truly Meyle genuine products then you really shouldn't worry to much. They are equivalent to AC Delco parts for American cars. They supply to most European OEM car companies.
I agree about the rotors and sensors (assuming they're legit), but those pads look a little sketchy. Not sure exactly what they are, but I thought they might be the cheap pads from OPparts:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...D-8738-OSM-INT
Did anyone go to the site?
Impressively large selection of brakes and other parts. With only 48 negative reviews out of 12,229 transactions.
http://www.ebay.com/usr/anhautoparts...p2047675.l2559
I would give it a shot.
rotors are basically rotors and Meyle is a decent brand
The pads, who knows. Give it a try
Worst case you replace the pads with something better
$120 for 2 rotors is not a bad deal
Be sure to pair it all up with "Hancock" tires.
Now there is a winner set up for your high performance sports car.
Best part when you toss it all after 3,000 miles... It didn't cost too much
Every time I tried to save money with cheap stuff on one of my fun cars I'd regretted it. If this was a civic, I wouldn't care but a 911 is very sensitive to properly engineered and built parts and you'll most likely end-up doing the job twice. So save your money/time and buy known quality parts the first time.
I agree. There are some parts that you have to be picky about which non-genuine part. There are some parts that you can't even consider a non-genuine part. You just end up feeling bummed afterwards.
Really? It's a brake rotor - if I had a Lathe and a chunk of steel, I could "properly engineer" one (or 4) in my garage...Look, I totally get it, and if folks want to spend the money "'cause they've got it" or it makes them feel better, that's fine by me, but I do believe there's a large degree of "Porsche Premium" built into many of the parts we need to buy for our cars. Also, if you haven't read through the whole thread, there are a few posts that claim to have used these same parts (perhaps even the same vendor) and say they're "fine" and in virtually new condition after 10 - 12,000 mi.. At that rate you could afford to change them out 2 or3x for every change at "Normal" prices. Of course, YMMV
Nothing like a good squeeling shrieeking rotor and brake pad set to notify the street your braking.
Hopefully your exhaust is loud enough to drown it out, or just turn the radio on higher.
So much more then just steel rotors. But hell what do I know! Not like I have had a bunch of these ****ty P-cars. Do people still sharpen rotors that's a good a solution too every couple of thousand miles!
You know, I'm a big fan of using OE Parts in a Bosch, mahle, etc box instead of the porsche one, but in this instance, we are really scraping the barrel. Even OEM quality meyle should be be more than this.
no no dude, the rotors, pads, and sensors are $122. Something ain't right there.
I get the feeling anyone bottom feeding here are looking for something that vaguely resembles brakes and if the car stops...at all, they are pretty happy.
I would hope that the 996 hasn't gotten to that point, but who knows.
Unfortunately, Meyle is one of the German companies that have outsourced some of their products to China. It's annoying as hell as part of their logo still says "Meyle Germany" which can be superceded by "Made in China" stick on label, making it confusing to some. It doesn't always mean they are inferior, just cheaper to make. So based on the price, I'm assuming all the parts mentioned are China made pieces, which would fall inline with the pricing. There have been many debates about this recently on various forums. I don't know or think if there is any right or wrong. This will be different strokes for different folks kind of thing IMO.
Some people just care about it functioning at the minimum with no other expectations. Sad but true.
Where have you been? There's people using Home Depot paint in their Porsches for christ sakes.
Just trying to Suggest common sense. People have a car that can hit 140 at a drop of pin. Better get brakes that can stop on a dime.
Done with this thread.
I've had some complaints about the Meyle rotors warping easily in the past. Some of their products are of decent quality especially the Made in Germany parts, but a lot of it's made in China. No thanks. I sell the Meyle rotors too, but I don't recommend them.
I offer 10% off for Rennlister's, just contact me before you purchase.
Rear Rotors Click HERE.
Rear Pads Click HERE.
Rear Sensors Click HERE.
-Jason
well dude, I was referring to the effective cost of the rotors if you just throw the other stuff away
as far as low cost pads, I put PowerStop Ceramic pads on my Boxster that cost ~$60 for both axles and they work great. Took the car to the track right after I put them on and no fade, no squeeling, just good firm stops.
trust me they got worked hard
No complaints on the street either
Thanks for taking the plunge and being "The Guinea Pig" ! For what it's worth, I wasn't necessarily advocating these or any other low cost parts (especially safety related stuff). More just being a "devils advocate" and questioning the sometimes seemingly ridiculous prices that we willingly open our wallets for. I don't care how much $ you have (or don't have for that matter)...nobody like getting ripped off.
Just out of curiosity, can you elaborate on the complaints you've received? Mostly track driving to cause the early warping? Any difference for a C2 or C4?
From the tone of your comments we can see that you are a superior being who buys all service, repair parts, tires, windshield wiper blades, oil and antifreeze from Porsche dealers.
We bottom feeders are honored to have bits of your infinite wisdom cast down to us.
One can only assume that if "Rennlist" were named "Porschelist" you would also spend $36 per year to join instead of the "$0" you spend now?
Don't know about what history you two have cause this sounds like it is more than an OEM Porsche parts discussion. But the heading of the thread is
SHOULD I TAKE A GAMBLE
Really on Brakes and Rotors? Go ahead and gamble on your service, repair parts, windshield wipers blades, oil? and antifreeze. But do you really want the guy on track next to you OR the next Red Light behind you who gambled on his Brakes? I don't.
Think we are loosing sight of the discussion & not sure how Braking and Gamble on it are valid in the same sentence.
...Because an analogy to a Rennlist subscription is clearly the same as a $122 brake kit. But hey, they'll go nice when he crome wraps his 996, that's cash worth spend'in!
Frank, I'm not sure your reading comprehension was purchased at the Porsche dealer, because its sorely lacking.
Now then, to repeat what i've said previously, I absolutely agree with purchasing OE quality items directly from companies such as Bosch, Mahle, etc. If I buy anything directly from porsche, its through discounted online resellers like sonnen or sunset.
There are plenty of companies that produce parts for our cars that are simply not to the quality level of the OE parts. I tend to generally agree with the principle that you get what you pay for. In this case, he's getting pads (which typically go for about $95 in the aftermarket arena), two rotors (typically go for about $150 at least each), and sensors for $120 SHIPPED (shipping for rotors is usually at least $25). Assuming these individuals like to see any profit whatsoever, that means that the parts cost less than $100. I simply don't see how its possible to purchase quality parts at this price point.
Finally, we are talking about BRAKES. Not window switches...not interior trim, not light bulbs. Maybe its just me, but thats one of the areas where I'd prefer to go with a proven part.
If you're still offended, then I guess you and I wouldn't get along.
Oh, and I forgot the membership dig. Heres my view on that:
This forum is merely a vessel. The value is the people who visit it and provide the content. Internet brands receives plenty of revenue from advertisers. If IB shut down rennlist tomorrow, we would all migrate to 6 speed, or pelican or xyz forum and the value remains. Therefore I don't see the point in paying IB for value provided by others. Also I don't currently have a use for the offtopic forum or the classifieds.
Let me get this right $122 for brakes and rotors, but what at least $1500 for Chrome wrapping.
Didn't realize it was the same Porsche enthusiast. This is an interesting thready, didn't even know so many wonderful options were available.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...48-advice.html
Yeah we should all continue this argument.
My reading comprehension is fine Quadcammer. Many posters felt OP shouldn't take the chance. You were pretty much the only one that felt added personal derogatory comments on your replies were appropriate.
#10. maybe take some money out of your chrome wrap project to you know, ensure your car stops properly.
I guess this is what happens when cars get cheap.
#30 I get the feeling anyone bottom feeding here are looking for something that vaguely resembles brakes and if the car stops...at all, they are pretty happy.
I would hope that the 996 hasn't gotten to that point, but who knows.
#43. Quote:
Originally Posted by loveporsche911
Thanks to everyone who put their two cents in... I decided I'm going to take the gamble and order the set, I will keep everyone updated.
of course you did
That was, quite frankly, very tame.
Maybe you like chrome wrap? I prefer brakes that work properly.
And lets also analyze...it seems to me that when cars get cheap, you get questions like "whose *** do you prefer, a girl or a car" and "chrome wrap, blue or silver, what do you prefer", then 2 minutes later, hey guys, I want to put the cheapest brakes on my car I can find. That is just a factual statement.
Once again, perhaps you and I are not destined to get along and really, I'm ok with that.
I don't know about the rest of you guys and girls, but I personally Still prefer a girls *** over a Car every time!
But, that's just me. Just saying!
Suspect you guys will be BBFs soon
The amount of sarcasm and absolute p****s on this tread is rediculous. lol
It seems too be the last 3-4 treads I posted 95% of the comments was complete A-holes.
My point of view: I'm not rich, far from it. Im 18 (still learning) about cars, mechanical stuff, ect.. I don't have many years of experience like everyone else has with these cars and what's good and what's not good. Call me a dumbass, retard, whatever you want. But, I always wanted a Porsche 911 since many years.. So I saved up money and bought one and now I'm trying to make it the way I always dreamed of it. Chrome wrap, big wing, plasti dip the wheels. Stuff like that,,, but I want to do it on my own and not go to my parents and barrow money from them, since I'm doing it on my own im trying to do everything as cheap as possible, I found Chrome wrap on EBay for $150 that'll wrap the whole car, and me and my brother have experience with wrapping so the install is FREE. Got a great deal on a wing for $300. All I have to do is paint and install, Instead of buying Real black porsche rims I bought a can of plasti dip for $8 and put the rims black. ABOUT THE BRAKES... Yes it is a safety hazard I agree, My dad said he will be taking care of the brakes and not too worry about it, He's putting on Geniue Porsche Pads and rotors.. So I did not order the brakes off eBay... I understand I'm ruining the car in everyone's point of view. But it is what I like, Again, I'm not rich like most of the people on here to do everything the right way and buy the most expensive stuff for the their cars, if I had the money, I would... But I dont,, I'm a hard working young man with a decent pay trying to make the best of it... Try to respect that,,,,
Random pic to clear the air,
I always wanted a 911 too but didn't want to hack it. So I bought a 944 instead. That's probably a more suitable vehicle to put $122 brakes on and chrome wrap maybe ?? Good car to learn on and parts are cheap.
This is what you get with RL. You just gotta learn to ignore all the old farts that want stock cars. Or maybe go to the Stance/Canibeat forums if that is the kind of direction you want to take your car in. I think you'll find more like minded individuals there. Learn about the stock stuff here and bling stuff on the other forums.
Regarding brakes, I've never seen any brakes explode or break down in any way under normal street use. Sure, they might not perform as good as other options but as far as breaking down, never seen it. You probably should be worried about the Hyundai driving behind you anyways that has the $60 rotor/pad combo.
I know some people that still refuse to drive their recalled airbag cars with the same mentality until it is fixed. Same kind of mindset I suppose...
Ignore these farts and get some azz with that Porsche. That's what I'd be doing if I was 18yo.
Welcome to RL!
Always remember that everyone's opinion is exactly that "their opinion". You can do whatever you want and you don't need people to approve it.
Enjoy your car. When I was 18, I was driving a POS Mazda. Most people here did not have a P-car at that age, so don't let them bring you down.
not bringing anyone down. Great that you bought a 911 at your age. But making sure you have solid mechanicals and adequate safety measures is more important than huge wings, chrome wraps or whatever. Maybe thats something you'll learn along the way. Realistically though, the maintenance of the car is something that must be taken into account when purchasing.
Good for you for doing it your way.
What are you paying for insurance? I can't imagine the bill for an 18yo with a Porsche (regardless of how old or mileage, the 996 still has 300+ hp and is considered a sports car).
don't waste the money on Genuine Porsche rotors and pads. You can easily get ones for 1/2 what Porsche will charge you that perform better
Personally I would go with the deal you found on ebay. At very least the rotors will be fine as there really is little difference until you get the stupidly expensive cryogenic, etc ones. The pads are probably fine as well
I went with low cost pads ($50/axle) and they are fine, even at the track !
And yes, most of the "experts" here are far from experts. There are a handful that really know what they are talking about about and its not hard to figure it out
"Very little difference in rotors". Sorry Wrong!
Here are some basics. Read article below- don't ever compromise tires and brakes. LOL Experts!
We are all YouTube certified techs It is 2015.
What’s the Difference Between Economy, Standard, and Premium Brake Rotors?
A. Obviously, the price is one difference, but there are also differences in rotor design and cooling, the type of iron alloys used to cast the rotor, noise, wear, and overall performance. Good brakes are essential for safe driving. One of the key components in a disc brake system is the rotor. When the brakes are applied, the calipers squeeze the pads against the rotor to create friction and heat. This converts the kinetic energy of motion into thermal energy (heat), which the rotors absorb and dissipate to slow the vehicle. If the rotors are not up to the task, and do not absorb and dissipate heat efficiently, the distance it takes to stop the vehicle may increase. Poor rotor cooling also increases the risk of brake fade due to overheated brake pads, and can shorten the life of the pads. The hotter the pads run, the faster they wear. The quality of the metal from which a rotor is cast has a major impact on rotor life and performance. The better the metallurgy in the rotor, the better it will perform on the vehicle. Economy rotors are typically made from the cheapest scrap iron. Quality can be very inconsistent from batch to batch and even from one rotor to the next. This can create hard spots that lead to warping and pedal pulsation problems later on as the rotors wear. Rotors that are too soft may wear quickly, while rotors that are too hard may increase pad wear or be noisy. Poor-quality castings that lack the proper hardness and strength are also more likely to warp or crack at high temperature. Unfortunately, there’s no way to judge the quality of a rotor by its appearance alone. An economy rotor may appear to be nearly identical to a premium-quality rotor, but the metallurgy is often far different. There are many different grades of cast iron, and some make much better brake rotors than others. The specific metallurgy affects its sound qualities, the hardness and wear-resistance of the rotor, and even its friction characteristics. Some economy rotors also have thinner facings than standard or premium rotors to reduce weight and cost. The air gap between the two rotor faces is made wider to save several pounds of cast iron in the casting. This reduces the rotor’s ability to absorb and dissipate heat, which also increases the risk of brake fade under hard use, rotor warping, cracking and rotor failure. Another area where economy rotors cut corners is in the design of the cooling fins between the rotor faces. OEM engineers go to great lengths to design specific fin patterns for specific vehicle applications. The number of fins and how they are oriented affects how well the rotor can dissipate heat. An economy rotor may have fewer fins, or the fins may be unidirectional so fewer part numbers can fit a wider range of applications. But most premium rotors will follow the original equipment design and use the same number of fins and fin configuration to assure proper cooling. Replacing an OEM rotor that has 35 cooling vanes with an economy rotor that has only 28 fins may not seem like a big deal, but a 20 percent reduction in cooling capacity could make a big difference with prolonged heavy braking. Many OEM rotors also have cooling vanes that are directional, so the right and left rotors are different. Directional rotors are designed to draw hot air away from the hub when rotating forward. Replacing directional rotors with unidirectional, straight vane rotors may cause a significant reduction in the venting and cooling of the brakes and hub.
