15 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHoil changes
Leading reported evidence
Install billet drain plug
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I installed a billet drain plug because the hex on my stock plug was starting to get sloppy.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
Whatever the engine has shed, plastic, rubber, alum., iron/ferrous metal, is trapped by the oil filter and is either to be found in the filter element folds are in the oil filter housing oil that should be poured into a separate and clean drain pan for inspection.
Leading evidence: 'Install billet drain plug' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean drain pan' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Whatever the engine has shed, plastic, rubber, alum., iron/ferrous metal, is trapped by the oil filter and is either to be found in the filter element folds are in the oil filter housing oil that should be poured into a separate and clean drain pan for inspection.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion · Original poster
hey guys, i'm thinking of changing my own oil for the first time.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Clean drain pan
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Whatever the engine has shed, plastic, rubber, alum., iron/ferrous metal, is trapped by the oil filter and is either to be found in the filter element folds are in the oil filter housing oil that should be poured into a separate and clean drain pan for inspection.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T072535Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
hey guys, i'm thinking of changing my own oil for the first time. i know -- i'm lame, but you have to start sometime right? so my questions are: should i get one of the billet aluminum magnetic drain plugs from pelican parts? also wondering about the spin-on oil filter adapter by LN engineering ($135 -- ouch!), also the oil filter removal socket wrench tool. all from pelican. are the filters used whith the adapter just easier to deal with than the insert/cartridge style? what other tips can you give me? thanks
i have ln engineering adapter. it has benefit for those who track cars as yes it is easier to unscrew metal filter than to deal with original stock, plus that bolt-on filter provides 100% filtration with no overflow valves.
i do not think magnetic drain plug is an imperative but it will not hurt. only tip - undo drainplug first, do not open up oil inlet cap, let oil drain, then do filter. then get up, open up oil inlet and pour in a quart of fresh oil, let it also drain out. then fill up filter, put it on, secure drain plug, do not overtight and put in 7 qt of oil (if your full capacity is 8qt). you car is probably still on ramps at this moment, so I usually start it up, get off ramps to make sure car is horizontal, then you`ll have to wait a bit as oil meter will want to settle if you started car up.
then i add STP zddp blue bottle additive and top on as oil as needed - usually about of half qt.
So little of the potentional wear surfaces are ferrous I see no real benefit from the magnetic drain plugs.
Whatever the engine has shed, plastic, rubber, alum., iron/ferrous metal, is trapped by the oil filter and is either to be found in the filter element folds are in the oil filter housing oil that should be poured into a separate and clean drain pan for inspection.
If you elect to go with a spin on filter this makes examining the filter element more difficult because you have to cut through the filter's outer metal casing which if not done carefully can contaminate the oil filter oil.
Easier imho to just retain the stock filter setup and dump the whole thing into a clean drain pan. The filter's already 'naked' and it doesn't take but a safety razor or Exacto Knife to cut the paper element portion free and unroll if it you want to.
Sincerely,
Macster.
I installed a billet drain plug because the hex on my stock plug was starting to get sloppy. Not sure if the billet will wear better but for the cost I figured what the hell.
+1 on leaving the stock filter setup. It's easy enough to deal with and does allow for simple filter inspections.
I don't think you'll want to start cutting filters open just yet, since you're only just getting comfortable with oil changes, but after a few of these, you'll start geting curious.
the stock filter has worked pretty well on your car for many miles... I would keep it and use the $135 for something else.
the same can be said for the drain plug buit its pretty cheap so whatever....
as for the oil, what are you planning to use anyhow
Agreed - it's pretty easy. I still have my stock oil filter.
One tip: the oil comes out really, really, really fast... and there's lots of it. Make sure you have a big catch pan - mine holds 15 quarts. I'd put some newspaper down under it too, just in case you spill a few drops.
One more tip: I don't use a jack or ramps. I just back my car up so that the engine hangs over the little lip from my garage to my driveway. This gives me just enough space to get under the car and drain the oil without ramps.
+1 for really really really fast...my oil pan didnt have a big enough hole in the top section and although it holds 15 quarts, it overflowed due to the restriction of the hole.... I hacked 2 other holes in the top section and now it works - nothing like overflowing !!
I've run into the same issue. Container is big enough, but hole is not. Its a nice suprise & scramble the first time you learn this lesson. I use the Blitz brand 15 qt oil drain pan. It can be had at Autozone for $7 & pick up a large cookie sheet style drip pan also from Blitz for $10 while you're at it. I didn't have to cut additional holes in the top, but rather remove both breather & drain holes from the Blitz container as well as completely removing the center plug. No more restriction
The Blitz pans are slick because they can be sealed to bring your used oil back to Autozone for disposal. However, they are cheaply made & the caps look like they won't take very much abuse before eventaully cracking.
Good luck!
