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YOUR RESEARCHMy DIY Lifting Puck
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Use on my ezecarlift and so far no issues
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
These I use on my Ezecarlift and so far no issues, but it is a flat lifting rea.
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I was looking for a pic of something unrelated and came across this one reminding me that I used the pucks with my two schitty floor jacks to make the car more level for oil changes.
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Suggestion
As the rubber compresses, the properties may change slightly from the static values, and over time the elasticity breaks down.
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Suggestion
But I'm fairly certain I still set FTD (Fastest Time of Day) on a later run.
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I was looking for a pic of something unrelated and came across this one reminding me that I used the pucks with my two schitty floor jacks to make the car more level for oil changes.
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I discovered that one magnet per hole was not enough holding power, but stacking 3 of them in each hole did the trick nicely
After looking at some lifting pucks available for purchase, it was hard for me to justify the amount of money asked to solve a problem than technically a small piece of 2x4 could solve. Ok, the 2x4 is the lower extreme of the cost, but I figure I could build something the could provide an acceptable functionality at a reasonable cost. Below is a small write up of what I did,
Parts;
4 Hockey puck from Amazon $12,
Small magnets, left over from my kids science project
4 Bolt $5
I first found the center of the puck and drilled a hole I could bolt the screw into tightly
I then drilled 4 holes across each other that would hold the small round magnets tightly
I discovered that one magnet per hole was not enough holding power, but stacking 3 of them in each hole did the trick nicely
I then hammered in the stack of magnets, the first set was no problem, the rest was interesting because of the attraction of the others, but a bit of patients helped here. I be sure the magnets ended up below the surface of the puck. I also screwed in the bolt.
Then I covered the bolt with a small piece of heater hose, this protect the inside of the lifting point and helps to keep things centered.
I would like to find bright color pucks, I know eventually I am going to forget these things under the car.
I was also ready to use some Urethane glue to hold the magnets and the bolt in place, but for now it looks like it won't be needed. I may still do this in the future.
They make heavier training pucks that are orange.
https://www.amazon.com/Sports-Training-Hockey-Pucks-Orange/dp/B00S1PUWPE/ref=pd_lpo_200_t_0/144-5420903-8433601?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00S1PUWPE&pd_rd_r=4c727333-a787-4368-a21c-5a6570bef8dd&pd_rd_w=eGmNg&pd_rd_wg=FgG7K&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=K14WYJ44HTBRXBFDBYPD&psc=1&refRID=K14WYJ44HTBRXBFDBYPD
https://www.amazon.com/Sports-Training-Hockey-Pucks-Orange/dp/B00S1PUWPE/ref=pd_lpo_200_t_0/144-5420903-8433601?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00S1PUWPE&pd_rd_r=4c727333-a787-4368-a21c-5a6570bef8dd&pd_rd_w=eGmNg&pd_rd_wg=FgG7K&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=K14WYJ44HTBRXBFDBYPD&psc=1&refRID=K14WYJ44HTBRXBFDBYPD
I purchased 4 pucks that have the machined aluminum piece that fits into the hole of the jack plate under the car. Previously, I just used plain pucks. In either case I don't like how the puck deforms under the weight of the car. It makes me a bit nervous when placing jack stands while wondering if the weight load will eventually cause the puck to break.
Do people use the pucks on jack stands as well, or just the jack?
Yeah I wouldn't place Jack Stands under pucks, they will deform. The jack stands shaper will deform anything I think. These I use on my Ezecarlift and so far no issues, but it is a flat lifting rea.
BTW, they have these Ruber Dip cans, that may work well for Jack stands, just dip the top part, it wont help with their shape but at least it wont scratch anything.
ddd
Really nice work! Those Neodymium magnets are super strong. You may actually be able drill the magnet holes from the bottom, almost all the way to the top, leaving just a thin layer of puck rubber remaining, and then insert the magnets so their force applies through the thin layer of rubber. You need almost no glue with that approach because the magnet force when on the car pulls them deeper against the remaining puck rubber.
I did the above making a wall-mount bottle opener. I drilled the back side of the wood mounting plank almost all the way through, then inserted the magnets from the rear, and they pull very strongly through the thin layer of wood that remains so that the wood catches bottle caps automatically as bottles are opened. Most people are shocked when they use it because it looks like the caps are sticking to the wood.
I guess I've been in Southern California too long because when I bought my set I had no clue they were 'real' hockey pucks. I thought they were referring to them as pucks just because they
looked
similar. To me, hockey is a waste of perfectly good ice.
Orange would be good. I could have sworn I had a set of four. Maybe I left two on the car and they flew off at some point.
Seriously though, even though mine haven't seen that much use, they don't seem to be holding up very well.
So true. But playing in the dirt is so much fun, as well.
Here's a video of me from a few years ago (12 - 13?). I don't even know who filmed the run. Some guys from
Road & Track
magazine came out to join in the fun with us. It may have been one of those guys. Anyway, the spin didn't help my time much. But I'm fairly certain I still set FTD (Fastest Time of Day) on a later run. I had a pretty good string of FTDs when no one showed up with studded tires. Sideways at 80 mph is a hell of a lot of fun!
You Tube
It's interesting that SoCal991t had his break apart over time. I don't know if the orange ones (280g), being denser rubber, will have a better compression strength (better) or just be more brittle (worse) than the black (170g).
I wondered how much weight they might be able to hold, so I'll share my calculations.
I've done alot of searching trying to find the Compressive Strength for the natural rubber (polyisoprene) used in pucks, and in particular since it is vulcanized (baked with sulfur), I can't find the right Compressive Strength data. Not even in my CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics. Synthetic polymers vary from PVC (6000 kPa) to Nylon6,6 (100,000 kPa) [1].
Given expense and ease of machining, wood may be a decent choice for this application (Compression Strength parallel to grain: 33,100kPa Eastern White Pine up to over 60,000kPa for some Oak and Hickory [2]) and wood wouldn't mar the metal either, although cracks and imperfections may lead to failure, whereas polymers would be more homogeneous.
But how much strength do we need? If someone has their corner weights, this will help, but I couldn't find any easily posted. However, if my C4S weighs about 3240lb [3], with a 38/62 weight distribution [4], then a rear jack point could have about 1004lbs (455kg) on it. A puck area is pi*(38mm)^2 = 45.4 cm^2, but I'm going to say, worst case, that the car jack point only rests on about 20% of the puck surface (this is where some elasticity helps, as it compresses, it will contact more area). This then comes out to be 455kg (4462N, we're all on Earth right?) on 9.1cm^2 (0.00091m^2) or 4900 kPa.
So, most of these materials should be fine for initial use, with plenty of margin for error. So why did the rubber puck fail? *I'm back to what everyone knew before reading this.* Fatigue and dynamic processes. As the rubber compresses, the properties may change slightly from the static values, and over time the elasticity breaks down. If vulcanized rubber has compressive strength at or near PVC, then pushing almost to failure each cycle could accelerate the fatigue. I also expect that the natural rubber ages and gets more brittle over time as well, due to UV, moisture or drying, etc.
As an expensive, over-engineered solution, I may try Nylon6,6 for this, I've used it before, and it can be machined and tapped pretty easily:
Amazon
Amazon
[1] CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 96th edition
[2]
https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/f...chapter_05.pdf
[3]
https://www.excellence-mag.com/resources/specs/92
[4]
https://www.autozine.org/Archive/Porsche/old/996.html
So, in conclusion, I didn't add much useful to the discussion. Damn.
I think I was too quick to fault the hockey pucks. I was looking for a pic of something unrelated and came across this one reminding me that I used the pucks with my two schitty floor jacks to make the car more level for oil changes.
Both jacks have four raised ridges that were taking all the weight. I assume the ridges were digging in/cutting the pucks and caused the material to start fracturing.
The small ring on the jack pads will definitely concentrate the force on the lift pads, and very likely exceed the compressive strength of the rubber in those areas. Hence the failures.
I recently made my own version, and decided to try the heavier orange training pucks (280g vs standard 170g) that were linked above by Yaz996. (
https://www.amazon.com/Sports-Training-Hockey-Pucks-Orange/dp/B00S1PUWPE
https://www.amazon.com/Sports-Training-Hockey-Pucks-Orange/dp/B00S1PUWPE
). Add some magnets: (
Amazon
Amazon
) And add 1/4-20 stainless socket cap bolts and some tubing (from a sink faucet line).
The magnets are strong on their own, but even with three per hole, and 4 holes per puck, they only lightly stick to the car jack points; but enough to do the job, and definitely won't fall off, until I get my QuickJack into place. I even had a chance to use them once. So far so good. The bolt tubing could be a little wider to aid centering, but it wasn't really a problem at all.
Assembled parts for one puck
Marking points to drill.
One completed puck
Puck after use. Car was up for about 6 hours. Left a very very slight impression.
Here's my version. Same orange pucks linked above, but different magnets:
Amazon
Amazon
Two magnets per hole (so 32 total) seemed to be the Goldilocks for these. Picked up the rubber stoppers from my local Ace for about a buck each. Served me well for the engine install with the Quickjack.
For these, would you even need the magnets? It looks like the stoppers are wide enough to essentially wedge into the jack point holes and stay put long enough to get a Quickjack under them.
Either way, great idea and I'm definitely going to steal some version of it. :-)
