996 suspension help

Hi, This is my first post and I apologize if the question has already been answered as I didn�t find any answer using the search function. I�ve owned a 996C2 for about 2 years now and have noticed some characteristics that have me wondering if it�s time to refresh the suspension. The car tends to bounce on freeway expansions joints and gets snaky at higher speeds. Also notice some bump steer more noticeable at higher speeds. Car is just shy of 60k and 21 years old. Since I have no baseline as to how the car should handle I�m thinking about addressing whatever is necessary to restore to original or better handling. I saw a YouTube video where a Guy in Britain changed everything out and really liked how it changed the handling. So heres my questions. Is the handling I described normal for the 996 or should I get the suspension refreshed. My mechanic has h&r coil overs and he really likes his ride and handling, Is this a good choice, any reason to go more, or should I just replace the struts. Does anyone sell a complete kit or is there somewhere where I can find a drawing of the suspension with parts numbers. Are there any after market suppliers I should avoid? Any other suggestions or better ways to address my issues will be appreciated. Thanks, Gary

Not normal but common because of age. Everything on your car is old and the rubber in the links is shot. Its not super expensive to just refresh it all. Your list should be: struts with top mounts and bearings all the links coffin arms (4), lobster fork (4), rear upper arms (4), rear tow arms (2), front tierods (2), front and rear sway bar bushinfs and links several after market companys make decent replacemens also u probably need motor and trans mount

In 2 months or so we rebuilding front suspension including wheel bearings, that will be everything but new steering rack. Koni special active struts.

OP - 1) �Snaky� is probably alignment. Sway bar bushings and links do not age gracefully. 60k miles is a lot of miles if still on original alignment. 2) http://Elephantracing.com for suspension diagrams 3) I replaced my entire .2 suspension with RoW M030+ for about $4,000 last year. I wanted to keep the car like if I ordered it back in the day. Price on the RoW jumped tremendously, so no longer a good option performance or cost wise. Feal and H&R coil over options at good price point...so go that route. Many threads on RL reviewing these products. 4) If the suspension component is Lemf�rder, Meyle, TRW, Febi or Porsche - okay. No Hamburg Technic or no-name China stuff is worth experimenting with for your possible minuscule cost saving. 5) If you have the time to search for and purchase your own best deals, you can save big! That Carwow video is energizing. I found it useful motivation before my suspension project. 6) Yes, motor and transmission mounts need to be checked. They impact handling on accel and decel. I second the importance of properly functioning top mounts. Elephant Racing suspension tutorial will explain De Jeeper�s suggested parts list. 7) Check threads on RL going back last several years for what others tried and liked. 911uk has same type info threads.

If your exhaust tips are dropped down more than about 1/2� from the bumper cutouts your Motor mounts are shot. Luckily it is about a 1 hour fix and not too expensive. Trans mount could be bad and is a pain to do. Also needs a special tool. Struts and bushings might be bad as others have mentioned. Bad shocks usually indicated when you go over a bump and it continues to bounce. Bad Bushings will generally just create slop in the handling. Have a shop put it on a lift and you will know if the bushings are bad. Bulging and cracks = need replacing.

Here is a link to part diagrams with OEM part numbers. I’ve found it very useful. Are you doing this yourself, or having a mechanic do it? Your budget sort of determines where to start. As some have said, if budget isn’t an issue, simply replace everything. It will all need it eventually. However for some of us, that is a little over the top and out of budget. So, for those, I’d suggest getting under the car with an assortment of pry bars, or having your mechanic do it, and start feeling your way around. Check damper bodies for leakage (easy to visually check). If your not having clunking sounds, that is a good sign that your ball joints and top mounts are likely OK (and when I say OK, I’m not saying like new, I’m saying still serviceable). If you're feeling bump steer, I’d take a close look at the diagonal arms on the front. They are easy to change and inexpensive (so long as you stay away from Porsche). Disclaimer: I am not a professional Porsche trained mechanic, far from it. Just a guy on a budget with a car that I maintain myself, both because of budget and enjoyment.

^^^ Bumpsteer is caused by/created when the car is lowered and the steering tie rods are no longer parallel/horizontal to the rest of the suspension/road. You'll need outer tie rod ends that allow for vertical adjustment of the end where it attaches to the wheel carrier... (i.e. "bumpsteer kit"). They're made by several companies and all work the same way (utilizing spacers) to get the angle of the tie rod as close to horizontal as possible. https://www.google.com/search?q=Pors...hrome&ie=UTF-8

100% dporto! That's why I doubt it is bumpsteer, more likely the diagonals moving causing what might feel like bumpsteer. You'd have to be lowered considerably for true bumpsteer to be an issues.