1999 C2 Engine Out, what is this

This past weekend I pulled the engine out of my 1999 C2 Tiptronic. The goal is to change install the LN IMSB Solution, new AOS, water pump, low temp thermostat, and whatever else seems easy. While cleaning things up, I found what looks to be a sensor laying under the intake (see pictures below), not connected to anything. Can someone help me identify it? The last picture shows where I found it. Thanks!

It looks like the coolant tank level sensor.

Thanks, that is it. The coolant expansion tank was replaced before I bought the car, a spare sensor must have been "lost" when installing it.

Curious, how long did it take to drop the engine?

This is my winter project, so I have been taking my time over multiple weekends. All in, I probably have 5-6 hours with a tool in hand. I was very worried about getting the car high enough on jack stands, then getting the engine down. It ended up being pretty straightforward. I used 4 6 ton jack stands liftbars HF low profile long reach jack HF ATV/motorcycle lift for under the engine $10 movers dolly to lower the transmission onto Not the best lighting, but this pic gives you an idea of the setup.

Cool! (no pun intended! ba dum dum..). They must have dropped the sensor when changing out the tank and were too lazy to fish it out of there... Do you have a Durametric, and did you happen to check the cam deviations? While the engine is out, you should replace the cam chains & chain pads. It's so much easier with the engine out! Also, injectors are important... Not trying to open a can of worms, but bore scoping the cylinders is probably a good idea as well (especially if it was making any sort of ticking noises). Since you're new to the forum, I don't know how much reading you've done - It's probably a really good idea to get these DVD's - it may seem expensive (roughly $600) but it will pay off in the long run! https://www.theknowledgegruppe.com/ It's a slippery slope! Good luck

I do not have a Durametric. Reading the forums and the Durametric site it wasn't clear that it was very useful for the 99 non-ethrottle 996s. I have been getting by with the iCarPlus so far, but it definitely has its limits. I was under the impression that changing the cam chains and chain pads was an intensive job, I'll take another look. If the job is straightforward enough and it is only adding another $400 or so to the cost I will do it. As for bore scoring, no ticking right now, at least after the first 4-5 seconds after start. There is definitely some rattling on a cold start, but it is very short-lived. I have also been doing oil analysis since I purchased the car (latest attached), and nothing there appears alarming, but maybe the more knowledgable forum members will have another opinion. This forum, and the members that make it up, has been a great resource. I appreciate all the help.

I have a 99 (manufactured 7/98) with cable throttle and Durametric works great on it. Just so you know....

Do those lift bars connect the two axle stands together??

The lift bars go to the two side jack points behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel. I have a set (that I used to drop my engine) and while they have their draw backs, they a are pretty great and very stable way to lift the entire side of the car at once. Generally speaking you won't get the "tick/tock/cluck" of bore scoring until the car warms up and the oil thins out a bit (unless it's really bad...). As for the cam chains/pads - it's not a difficult job per se' (no more difficult than removing and installing the engine/transmission) but it does take some attention/focus (special tools, locking cams and timing). My point was that it's exponentially easier with the engine out, as the cam covers need to be removed/re-sealed (major pita with the motor in the car).

Every time I see an engine/trans out, sitting next to the car it amazes me. They really shoehorn that big chunk of metal into that car! What was the clearance from the bottom of the oil pan to the floor once you had the elevation of the car set for removal of the engine?

Quotes source post: 16421344

When I did mine, I had 25.5" between the floor and the oil sump... This allowed me to roll the lift table out from under the car with the engine and transmission on it.

I didn't measure. By the time I got to the point of thinking about sliding it out I had already lowered the engine in order to get to the remaining AC compressor bolt and have some working room to disconnect the power steering hoses. When I get home tonight I will measure the clearance between the ground and the body area behind the bumper (with bumper removed) is 30.25". Pic attached.

Quotes source posts: 16421434, 16422112

At the highest elevation the Quick Jacks reach, the oil sump is 19� above the floor. Chris, I have about 29� to the underside of the rear heat shield. Does the rear heat shield bolt to the underside of the rear beam you are referencing?

I don't recall exactly how it came off, but if you are referring to part 17 from this diagram, yes it came off. Parts 1, 12, 17, 22, 24, all came off.

Well, it sounds like I might be high enough to do an engine removal, depending on the build up thickness of parts 17, 22, and 24.