36 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHkey fob battery
Leading reported evidence
Install energizer cr2032 and all has been okay since
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Then I warmed a few of the solder connections, especially those around the battery holder and installed a new Energizer CR2032 and all has been okay since.
Leading evidence: 'Install energizer cr2032 and all has been okay since' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'circuit board connections are cracked' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install energizer cr2032 and all has been okay since' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
So before you go thinking about getting new fobs, or having your repaired putting a new battery is the best thing to try.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've changed batteries in both fobs - no effect on electronics.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I bought a used key on eBay and jut replaced my cracked cover.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
go on eBay and buy a couple of used keys and tak the sealing rings out for yours.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Install energizer cr2032 and all has been okay since
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Then I warmed a few of the solder connections, especially those around the battery holder and installed a new Energizer CR2032 and all has been okay since.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
36 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I tried my other fob and it worked, but not very well.
So I have a dumb question. My remote pretty much stopped working but the little red light in the key still flashes when I press the button.
Wouldn't the light not work if battery was dead? Or does the unlock command use more juice than a tiny little light?
If the battery in the key fob is dead, the light will not flash. But my remote stopped talking to the car years ago. Light still flashes on the remote, but I think the circuit board in the key fob is bad. Not of the mind to go through the hassle and expense of getting another key fob and having it programmed to the car.
Very likely the circuit board connections are cracked. I bought a replacement fob after reading that you could just swap the blade and the transducer pill and it would work. Unfortunately that's not true. The new fob will open and start the car but you need the dealer to program it to work the remote lock/unlock. A lesson learned - $170 plus whatever the dealer is going to charge for the programming.
Thank you for this info! I have decided that if both fobs stop working, I don't really care enough to get them repaired. Even when they "worked" it was only from 5 feet away, so I am fine with unlocking the car the old fashioned way.
Damn shame that Porsche supplied such cheaply made fobs with our era cars. I often raise this issue in casual 996 conversation and have yet to meet a fellow owner who has both original fobs that continue to work properly.
if you think the fobs are cheap wait until fobless Woodman writes about breaking that thin fragile metal tab that connects the lock cylinder to the internal locking mechanism in the door lock.
Then it�s HAMMER TIME!
Just chiming in to tell you that sometimes the key fob electronic circuit boards can be fixed.
It's not much either since we charge $55.
Also, a full battery will always push the signal further and stronger.
When you change batteries in the remotes there are no negative repercussion to be mindful of.
So before you go thinking about getting new fobs, or having your repaired putting a new battery is the best thing to try.
Just for the record, key fob stopped communicating with the car....hmmmmm...about five/six years ago. I tried a new battery but it still doesn't work. The battery has been dead in the key fob about 3 years now. Never got around to replacing it because the circuit board is bad. So I just lock/unlock the car with the key, and I know the RFID pill in the key is passive (doesn't require any power). No problems at all. And my valet key works the same way. I'm not worried about the fragile metal tab in the lock mechanism....very gentle with the lock/unlock procedure. Millions of older cars work the same way....key for locking/unlocking manually on the door.
Figure it just is what it is. And if I would stop drinking coffee in the morning at my age, I might undertake what has been suggested on other threads, resoldering the circuit board power connectors. I just can't stop the hands from shaking until about 12 or 1 PM, and then it is beer time so not going to mess around with that either. Then we move into wine and Jeoprady/house hunter shows until bed. LOL
The Key Head has 2 parts:
1-the circuit board and buttons which are coded to the Immobilizer to only open/close enable/disable your alarm system - this part works with the battery
2-the transponder, which is also coded to the Immobilizer and it is the one that allows you to start the car - this one doesn't need power to operate.
That's why DBJoe996 key still let's him use his car after all these years.
Alarm works fine. Just lock it up with the key and go. I have tested it so I know it works the way it is supposed to. Leave up frunk lid, lock car and get a beep for an open zone. Leave up center console, lock car and get a beep for an open zone. Roll down window, lock car and toss in a towel. That sets off the infrared sensors and the alarm goes off.
I'm pretty good with a 25w soldering iron so last year I ordered a few of these on eBay and decided to "refresh" my fob's circuit board.
Only took about three minutes to replace the buttons. Then I warmed a few of the solder connections, especially those around the battery holder and installed a new Energizer CR2032 and all has been okay since. I'm very careful not to mistreat or drop the key and I only use light pressure to open the doors and frunk, the latter very infrequently.
Not nessarily a big proponent of the fobs. More it is one of the “features” of the car so I try to keep it/them working.
I have successfully reflowed the solder on one and replaced one switch on another. I had one where the blister in the case cracked and held the switch down causing premature battery failure. I bought a used key on eBay and jut replaced my cracked cover. There are rebuilding kits on eBay that have the switches.
I also have an antique Porsche GPS in the 2004tt that while pretty clunky works fine. You just have to keep the tubes fresh.
New 2015 map CDs are available.
Edit
you snooze you lose
Fast beat me to it.
Rsbro
go on eBay and buy a couple of used keys and tak the sealing rings out for yours.
I have to be brain dead or dexterity challenged. I opened one of the fobs for my 99 Carrera, replaced the battery, and now I cannot get the two halves of the case back together. There is always one edge that won't pop into place...and I don't want to force it. Is there a trick that I am not aware of? Everything appears to line up, but it just won't close. Glad I only did one key. At least I can use the other to manually lock/unlock the car.
UPDATE: The verdict is dexterity-challenged. I finally figured out that the circuit board was not lining up with the two little tabs that hold it in place, so I figured out how to get the damn thing back together. It's been a long day.
Both fobs that came with the car are originals. So worn on the outside that I cannot read the symbols on the buttons. The other fob has a red light that comes on when pressed, but no interaction with the car. That one is next for a battery. I just lock/unlock it with the key manually - nothing urgent about fixing these.
I understand.
Let me know if the other fob works after you put new batteries in it.
If it does, then we can probably fix your old one.
If it does not work, then it might be a more serious issue in the Central Locking Unit Immobilizer.
I saw a DIY on a YouTube video, which absolutely convinced me NOT to try it myself.
If I decide to have mine refubed, I will be in touch. I am just too dangerous with a soldering iron.
Resuscitating this necro thread as I found an interesting thing about my key fobs.
Both stopped communicating with the car so I finally got around to putting new batteries in them.
Neither one works, but both have the blinking red light when I push the button.
Here's the weird part (or I just have too much time on my hands.)
They blink at different rates! One is super rapid and the other is about every half a second.
Mysterious.
Either way I suppose boards must have gone south if the batteries aren't doing the trick.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
