What exactly is the 60k service?

Air and oil filter - can do this myself Cabin filter - myself Belt- shop Spark plugs - shop Oil change - a monkey ASE certified can do this Automatic tranny oil ? Is that it? What's a reasonable charge? I'm thinking of holding off to 100k miles and add water pump and air oil separator and may be IMS upgrade. Any thoughts on this ? Bad idea ?

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What is officially called out for the 60K mile service varies from MY to MY and I can't remember them all. IIRC on renntech.org there is a link to the service schedules. Oh, before I forget, I'd advise you to not refer to whomever you take the car to as a monkey, ASE certified or not. I've had my Boxster serviced one time at a quicky lube joint and it cost me a stripped drain plug. You can have your car serviced where you want but you better be sure the tech knows what he's doing. There are about a zillion ways to screw this up. IIRC the factory guidelines do not call for a Tip fluid change at 60K miles but if I owned a Tip equipped car I'd have this done at 60K miles. I'd also have the coolant drained and refilled with fresh coolant. You can do the AOS and water pump when you want or you can wait for a sign one or the other needs doing. If you are lousy at reading the signs have them done now. 'course there is a slim chance one could be bad shortly after it is installed so you still have to know the signs...or just trust luck all will be ok. For the IMS upgrade by the time you see/hear the signs it may be too late. If you believe your car needs this, if you believe you need your car to have this, you should do this now. There can be an electronics system/controller scan done looking for any errors or problems. The safety restraint systems can be inspected and there might be a body corrosion inspection due to keep the body corrosion warranty in effect, though IIRC this expires after 10 years. Still you would like to know if there is any corrosion starting so it can be addressed before it becomes a real problem. Costs vary from dealer to dealer or indy to indy. All you can do is call around at places to which you feel comfortable entrusting your car and get quotes and what's involved.

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if i were you i'd wait until 200K miles - make sure you change your user name and make sure there are no banana peels in the car when you come back here trying to sell it.

Don't do a thing until a light comes on. Once the light comes on you probably have another 25,000 miles or so until something horrible happens. The plan than is to drive the car for approximately 20,000 miles, remove any fuses or bulbs that makes the light come on, than sell the car on Craigslist. That way the money you saved from not doing the 60k service can be rolled over into a newer car. Do this five or six times and before you know it you'll have saved enough on car maintenance to buy yourself a new Turbo. I'm pretty sure my plan is genius and without any flaws.

Thanks Macster. This is very helpful. As for the other two , did you guys have a bad day ?

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I would tell you to go buy yourself sense of humor but than you would probably start a new thread asking people to explain what humor is. Obviously, I was joking! HOWEVER...Calling ASE Certified Mechanics monkeys is not really wise. Im sure that there are a few of them on this forum or one of the forum sponsors. Not a wise start on a public forum. Also...why would you wait an additional 40k miles to do basic maintenance on a car that is a wee bit temperamental to begin with. It would be a disaster waiting to happen. Get it all done now and have some piece of mind. My guess is that you bought this car fairly recently and think that most of the basics have already been done. I bought my best friends car and the first thing I did was change the fluids and filters. (Piece of mind).

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You need thick skin to be on this board... lots of sarcasm, but lots of really good information too. I have the same question as I am about 5k away from my 60k service, and most of the items I've taken care of in the last 2k miles a quick google search brings up this list.... Major maintenance at 30 000, 60 000, 90 000, 120 000 miles etc. / 48 000, 96 000, 144 000, 192 000 km etc. ❏ Change engine oil and oil filter (completed at 50k, and will be done every 5k) ❏ Replace spark plugs: Only On 911 (996) and Boxster up to 2000 and 911 Turbo 2001 (For 2001 911 (996) and Boxster, see 60 000 mile schedule) (completed at 51k) ❏ Air filter: Replace filter element (completed at 51k) ❏ Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory (consistently done) ❏ Polyrib belt: Check condition (replaced at 51k - and is a VERY easy DIY that no one should be afraid of trying themselves) ❏ Underside of vehicle & engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils & fluids) & chafing (wires, lines & hoses) Check that the underbody paneling is securely fastened – replace any damaged and/or missing panels ❏ Coolant hoses: Check condition. Radiators and air inlets: Visual inspection for external debris and blockage ❏ Coolant: Check level and antifreeze (flushed at 51k) ❏ Pollen filter: Replace filter element (completed at 51k) ❏ Fuel system: Visual inspection for damage, correct routing and firm seating of the line connections ❏ Power-assisted steering: Check fluid level ❏ Parking brake: Check free play of the parking brake lever (completed at 52k) ❏ Brake system: Visual inspection of the brake pads and brake discs for signs of wear (replaced at 50k) ❏ Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for damage, correct routing and corrosion ❏ Brake fluid: Check level ❏ Clutch: Check play or final position of pedal ❏ Throttle actuation: Check smoothness of operation, full-throttle position with the tester ❏ Steering gear: Visual inspection of the bellows for signs of damage ❏ Tie rod ends: Check play and dust boots ❏ Axle joints: Check play, visual inspection of the dust boots for signs of damage ❏ Check tightness on the front and rear suspension adjustment points ❏ Drive shafts: Visual inspection of the boots for leaks and signs of damage ❏ Exhaust system: Visual inspection for leaks and signs of damage, check mounts (replaced at 52k with aftermarket) ❏ Tires and spare wheel: Check condition and tire pressure (routine) ❏ Check firewall and cabrio section body drains for debris ❏ Door locks, lid locks & safety hook of the front lid: Check to ensure that they are adjusted and function properly ❏ Seat belts: Check operation and condition ❏ Vehicle lights: Check operation. All headlights: Check alignment ❏ Horn: Check operation ❏ Windshield washer, headlight washer: Check fluid level & nozzle settings, make sure to check the antifreeze during winter months ❏ All other electrical equipment as well as indicator and warning lights: Check operation During road or dynamometer test: ❏ Remote control, front seats, foot brake & parking brake (also operating travel), engine, clutch, steering, transmission, ParkAssist, automatic speed control, TC/PSM switches, heater, air-conditioning system & instruments: Check operation ❏ Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks Also, add to that list to check the oil filter for any debris, and possibly drop the oil pan for inspection. So based on this list, and what I've done already, it would seem that I don't need to do an official "60k" service, but instead, next time I need an oil change, I'll bring it to my indy and have him go over everything, and essentially give it a PPI. In your situation, if you don't look at the mechanics of your car at all, and don't handle every problem as it turns up, then I would definitely recommend a full 60k service. As for the IMS.... most failures tend to be early on (<30-40k miles), with the odds of a failure decreasing after that. I would assume though that this metric is probably more like if the car is driven <3k miles/year the chances are higher than if it's driven >4k/year. Also, general feeling is that if you do more frequent oil changes, you decrease odds of failure... so, if you're even considering doing it, do it NOW rather than later. Remember though that it's much more expensive to do it on a Tip, as opposed to changing it in a Manual that is already having the clutch replaced.

@OP- I hung out at the dealer yesterday for a few hours while having (other) service done. I could overhear the service writer helping many other customers (different mileages, situations etc.). He was giving slack on many things, but the one word he kept saying the clearest was "60k" (as in, don't skip that one).

Bad idea! Why would you own such a great car and not maintain it? I really really do not understand that mentality. And for that matter it would apply to any car you owned. But whatever, it's your car so do what you want and certainly ignore any advice from here.

I'm one of those who really didn't come with a wrench in my hand. I have all my work done and have a very reputable Indy that does the work. I paid $600 for the 60k service which included installing new exhaust tips (originals rattled). I wouldn't risk missing these major maintenance items - especially if you plan on keeping the car.

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no bad day here - just like to make fun of the kids who post ridiculous questions to the forum. be sure to get back with us if you have any problem removing the training wheels from your non-maintained 996

I'd do the belt(very simple) and the oil and filter as well, and I'd do it all at 60k. I'm still on my OEM water pump, clutch, IMSB and RMS seal with just over 68k miles, and my oil filter and magnetic plug were surprisingly clean.

❏ Change engine oil and oil filter (very easy) ❏ Replace spark plugs: (Never done it but it should be ok) ❏ Air filter: Replace filter element (very easy) ❏ Polyrib belt: Check condition(very easy) the rest is just chec this, that & replace as needed.

Ah! I should lighten up. As for the monkey reference, it was a joke in a sense that one can get a monkey and train the monkey to do an oil change. Basically, I meant to say that you don't need a porsche specialist to do an oil change. I totally was not trying to say that the human mechanic was a monkey. Oops bad choice words

It's all good. I've asked my fair share of dumb questions over the years on the different forums I belong to. I actually think most of the responses from people are pretty damn funny and I never take anything personal. When I dish it out, which I do pretty frequently, I'm prepared to take it also. There is a huge wealth of information on this board and most of the time if you keep from getting sidetracked, you'll get the answer to pretty much any problem you're having.

We offer Major Maintenance Service Kits that include everything you need for the 30,000 miles, and every 30,000 miles thereafter. For more information Click Here .

Own oil-filter, belt, cabin filter is very easy. Buy parts from pelican and follow YouTube videos. I had indie change my plugs for about $300 I think - it is a bit more involved - esp if you are not a DIY guy. Trans fluid change at indie will be relatively cheap too and do brake flush and quick inspection while he is at it - you should be able to get out for < $600. Do used oil analysis with blackstone and inspect filter - this will give you current reading of ims condition. I waited to replace mine until I had rms leak and had to go in there anyway. It was fine. If you want to stretch the budget you could wait on water pump and coolant for another 5k but this is pretty common failure at these age/miles .. Watch coolant level and for leaks regularly If you have the budget -

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I also had my mechanic do my plugs... I heard that 4 of them are easy to get to but 2 are a total pain... lucky an experienced Indie has done this many times and can do it without much time commitment