Front trunk motor doesn't work...sometimes...maybe when hot?? ideas???

Looking for some advice or idea what to do here... we have a 2004 GT3, it has the electric front and rear trunk release buttons, not the cable type, plus the open button on the key fob. When the car is in the garage, or sitting inside for a while, the release works just fine. But when it's out for a while, like on a trip, it doesn't seem to work at all! You know how much it sucks that you load it up for a trip, get to your destination, and you can't open up the trunk!! But, when it gets later, and cools down, it works. I have no idea if heat has anything to do with it, but there does seem to be some sort of coorelation. I only thought of heat because in our 914's, the starter solenoid sometimes gets hot and sticks. I figured this is probably just a solenoid that pops the trunk, so maybe the same issue??? Any idea what the real problem is, and how to fix it? TIA

When it does not open have you tried pressing on the front edge while someone activates the switch or you activate the remote? Do you hear the solenoid activate? If not pull the lock out and bench check it. Check the connectors. If you do hear it then heat might cause things to expand and jamb, could be that it needs to be adjusted.

The solenoid is not activating at all when it doesn't work. No sound. Nothing. Tried the pushing down, pulling up, kneeling down and praying, everything. What's frustrating is I can't even replicate it when I get home. after it's cooled down, or whatever the trigger is, it works fine. Drove it the other night to dinner on a cool night...worked fine when we got to the restaurant. Drove it over the weekend to a friends during the day. Didn't work when we got there. Got home, didn't work. couple hours later, worked fine. That's why I think it's heat related. And from what I can see, the solenoid is under the bumper? So I'd have to take the bumper off to check/replace it??

Check this Latch adjust DIY on renntech.org It is for a cable operated latch but it has some good info that will apply to 2001 and later electric operated latches. You might have to join to see it. Join it is well worth it for the DIYs, TSBs, etc. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...tch-mechanism/ It is part of this thread. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...tch-mechanism/

The latch mechanism is bolted on the frunk with two bolts in MK1 ('99-'01) models. You can loosen the two bolts and move the entire frunk latch higher to engage the lid. The latch mechanism in my car got pushed lower over time and would not lock until I moved it up again. However, the MKII models may be different in their adjustment...

As I mentioned, the odd thing is that MOST of the time, it works fine, only seems to be when it's hot. Like now, just went out in the garage. Works perfect. Drove it to work the other day...didn't work when I got to work. But when I left (I park in a parking garage) it worked fine. Bad solenoid? Or, another thought came to mind. This car has a GT3 RS front bumper, meaning the little grills just above the solenoid/motor area. Maybe it's gotten dirt or something in it, or dried out any grease, that siezes it up when hot?

Do this little test, when it is working, hit the switch and notice the volt gauage and the interior lighting. See how they react. Then when its not working, do the same test and report back. This will at least tell you if its drawing any power when its not working. Thus may point us to a relay or other.

Bob, for some peace of mind... there is a (hidden) manual cable for the front/rear lid. You can move them to where you want it for easy access. PM me if you dont know where it is.

Hey Ferd, Yeah, I now know about the cable. But still a PITA. Basically the front trunk is currently useless if we are going anywhere. We went to Asheville for our anniversary memorial day weekend, luggage and all in the trunk. Got there in the afternoon, and couldn't open it to get our stuff!! You know how embarrassing it is to be in a hotel parking lot with a speed yellow GT3, trying to get the damn front trunk open in 95 degree heat, wearing nice clothes? Needless to say, Nadine was not happy, nor was I. I 'found' the cable after calling our mechanic (did I say it was SUNDAY of Memorial Day weekend??), and laying on the hot asphalt, ruining my white shirt. I was pissed....

Shark Attack, tried your test. No voltage or light dimming change whether it works or not.

really... are you sure... engine off? you should see that solonoid pull some power. Then if you know how to work an amp meter use it and see how much power it pulls when it works and how much it pulls when it doesnt. What I am looking for is to see if the solonoid is trying to fire and cant. or if power even fails to get to the solinoid. Yes this is the redneck way to go about it.. but it works.

Quotes source post: 8695067

Yes, i'm sure, and I know what you're looking for. Sat there tried it 5 times, and it worked every time. and do you really think that volt meter on the car is going to catch a split second trigger enough to see it? It barely moves when you START the car. this isn't exactly a 1969 VW beetle... I could try the amp meter on the battery, yes. But I'll have to carry the amp meter around with me all the time then. It worked just fine today, all day, even when I got to work.

I'm currently have the same issue. Stops work intermittently. No noise from the solenoid either from the lever in the car or the remote. Any ideas? I have an '03 Cab. Thanks.

Mine does the same thing. The trunk release on the key fob won't work at all.

Update: it's the motor/solenoid. It pretty much died. I replaced it (got it from the dealer - not hard to do at all) and have had no problem in almost a year. It's a whole motor with cable assembly. The solenoid that triggers to pull the latch open just wears out.

sell the car and get a 99 job. They have cables hehe.

Bob thanks for the update. Do you have the part #? Mine started acting up again today. I assume the solenoid is located in the trunk?

P/n is 996.511.127.00. Hood Actuator. About $60 from the dealer. Have had no problems at all since I replaced it. Not hard at all.... Good luck

Thanks Bob!

Replaced the actuator fixed the problem.

cool!

keyboard posted prematurely. Can't find delete in editing section. Oh well

Heat makes metal expand probably causing bowing which makes extra pressure on the latch which might be making the mech whimp out from extra pressure. Possibly a car safe lube on the latch if skipping adjustments is wanted.

naroescape or Slopeslider ... you mention replacing the hood actuator on your own. Do you mind posting any tips/advice? I'm going to order the part - just wanted to make sure it's as easy as it sounds. My front opens about 80% of the time. The 20% of the time it does not ... total mystery.

Yep, that was like mine...but that 20% always seemed to be when we really needed it! to be honest, I don't remember the details, but it was pretty easy and self explanatory once you see it all. It's right behind the carpet and plastic trim at the front of the hood area right around the latch on the drivers side. What amazed me is that the solenoid is not really bracketed to anything, it's just kinda 'there'. Good luck!

Quotes source post: 10631019

Just as Naroescape says, it's really straight forward. Pull the trunk lining forward on the drivers side and you will be able to see the actuator. Just unplug and remove and do the opposite to install the new one.

Thanks for the tip. I've been suffering the same problem all year.

Thanks to all on the forum!! I had an intermittent trunk lock, I found this and ordered the new solenoid and wire from the local dealer. Mine cost about $72 with tax. Easy enough to install, and so far no issues....

Yeah, I know this is an old thread, but it just solved my hood problem on my '03 C2. The SEARCH function is a handy **** fo sure.

How much and how hard to just replace the electronic system with a manual cable system from an early model?