Keyless entry | Stopped working

One working key/remote came with my 2002 Cab, which I used up until last week (a second has never worked). However, it just stopped working, even though the light still flashed, I assumed the battery was dead and replaced it. However, after the fact I realized changing the battery and messing around with the remote likely deactivated it. However, before I pay my local stealership some outrageous amount for this simple task, do other ideas of what could be wrong? I've already tried the unlock manually, press and/or hold the lock/unlock button and checked all my fuses. Upon unlocking my car manually with the key, the alarm will sound if I don't put the key in the ignition within maybe 10 seconds, the passenger door must be opened by double pulling the handle from the inside, the dash lock/unlock button seems to be inoperable. I assume this is because the alarm was not deactivated upon unlocking with the remote, the alarm stays activated when manually unlocking?

I have the same problem with my '02 coupe. I think the electronic board in the key is bad, but not sure. One key doesn't work at all anymore (used to work fine). The other will work with a new battery, but within 24 hours the battery is dead. Frankly I've just learned to use the key, and turn the ignition switch quickly to avoid the alarm coming on (you have about 30 seconds). The biggest pain is when I have a passenger. Awkward to get in and have to open the passenger door from inside (yes, two pulls of the handle). Mildly annoying, but right now it's the only thing that doesn't work perfectly on my car, so I've learned to live with it for now. I know we're not alone!

Key problems and lock/unlock problems this week! More than likely the circuit board in your key fob is faulty. You have to go to a dealer, get a new key and have it programmed to your car. Now as far as the manual unlock, that is a bit strange. My key fob gave up the ghost years ago and I have manually locked/unlocked the car with the key. I can unlock the car, open the door and do whatever and the car alarm does not go off. I do not have to put the key in the ignition either. And manually unlocking both doors unlock, driver and passenger. It has never failed to do that. It will automatically re-lock in so many seconds if a door is not opened. Maybe a 2002 is programmed a bit differently. There are two important things in your key fob, the circuit board (which in your case is probably bad) and the "pill" which communicates to the alarm system. From experience, you do not have to have a good battery (mine died a long time ago) in the key fob for the "pill" to work. Another suggestion, many electrical gremlins are caused by a faulty electrical part of the ignition switch, so you might also look there. Also, have you tried manually unlocking twice, or, manually unlocking and holding the key in the unlock position in the door to see if it also unlocks the passenger side? I seem to remember that that does something....

Maybe the alarm sounding is Cab specific? While messing around try to get the key working/battery replaced, the pill fell out inside my house, I brought the key out and unlocked my car, but the alarm sounded when I tried to start it. I figured out what happened, the alarm kept sounding until I got the pill from inside and put the key back in the ignition. So at least I know the pill works. Yeah "Southern Man" sounds like we've got the same issue. It's honestly not a big deal to lock/unlock with the key, only awkward with a passenger when I have to go through the inside to unlock their door and/or the alarm starts going off.

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This was my case after going through an entire set of troubleshooting, even including confirmation that my key was still married to the ecu.

"It's honestly not a big deal to lock/unlock with the key, only awkward with a passenger when I have to go through the inside to unlock their door and/or the alarm starts going off." That's the conclusion I came to. I'd like to have the key remote work, but it's not a big deal. And no, this is not a cab specific issue. Mine is a coupe.

"This was my case after going through an entire set of troubleshooting, even including confirmation that my key was still married to the ecu." Did you buy a new fob/circuit board online or at a dealer and get it programmed there? AFAIK a special code is needed to get a circuit board programmed, I don't think I have this (which I suppose is irrelevant if fried).

see this thread. Southern man maybe one of your switches is sticking on? https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...working-2.html

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Yes I ended up buying a new key from the dealer and having it programmed. Key heads come with a unique serial number that is needed to program that key to the immobilizer so don't buy any used ones out there.

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There's a button to the right of the AC controls that locks/unlocks the doors.

Here's my thread from awhile back that should provide all you need to know. Ultimately, however, I think you either need to get a new key or get your key reprogrammed. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...d-working.html

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And don't throw that card away! You'll need it if you ever need to re-program.

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Just want to add my frustrated and angry voice to this. Your description is exactly what has happened to my 02 Targa. Can't unlock doors with remote. Button on dash does not work. Have to reach over to unlock passenger door. Damn alarm goes off unless the engine is started - 10 SECONDS!, not 30 seconds. I just want to have a locking system like on any old Japanese cheapo car! Push remote, door/doors unlock, alarm off; push unlock button on dash, doors unlock. Porsche seems to excel in making fine machinery, but also excels in being dunderheads when it comes to simple creature comforts (to wit, remember the ridiculous AC that persisted for decades on their air-cooled engines -- ask me, I have spent thousands trying to "upgrade" their inability to fashion simple AC that worked like a Japanese cheapo car.) End of rant.

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I'm glad you said Porsche although other German automakers are guilty of some things too. I particularly like the BMW key fobs when they still had keys. It would charge the fob every time you insert it into the ignition. Pretty clever on their part as you technically never have to replace a battery. My folks still have a '01 Bimmer on its original key fobs working good.

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Yah, never any problems with my 07 BMW Z4 remote -- same battery, no unlocking probs, etc. since 06.

Stasha, this is exactly what happens in my pcar. I believe the lack of remote functionality means the alarm doesn't truly turn off, leaving the unlock button "inactive." I called a few indy's, they said it sounds like I will need to have the keys re-programmed. They stated dealership is the only place this can be done.

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Not true, some of the better Indy's will have their own PST2 or PIWIS programmer. The ones that usually work on 993's and older models may not as it wouldn't be worth the investment to them.

Same happened to me. New circuit board for the key got it fixed. Not cheap.

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Yup! My Indy here in DFW can do key programming. I'd rather give them my money than a dealership.

Thanks, I'll call a few more indy's before settling for the dealer. Any recommendations in Atlanta? I've things like the motor mounts and serpentine belt myself, so I have yet to take it to a shop for anything (knock on wood).

I can't believe you like the fact that the ignition switch charges the key battery. I hate the whole remote thing on any car. I still live in a world where it was better to have simple stuff like a regular key with no battery that just opens the door lock. I have to admit that all the hi tech stuff seduces and amazes me at the same time and I like it when it works but the day will come when I hate it. If the engine in my car doesn't eventually get floating cylinder sleeves or one of the other ailments than the computer or wiring will finally fail. The old cars worked fine without the weird problems we have now. However the old cars were hot and slow and steered hard and nobody wants that anymore. You guys can probably tell that I'm 73 years old and us old guys always remember the good old days, but I still love my hi tech to me 996.

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Yah, but thank Gawd we don't have points to adjust EVERY DARN WEEKEND anymore. And thankee for fuel injection, And remember in the 60s when American cars thought disc brakes were an unproven factor, And single master cylinder brakes, And non-syncro 1st gears, and unheated rear windows and no AC cars ---- wait a minute, that's a Porsche!

... I kept reading and reading and reading and could get what I wanted to find out, so here it goes. If you do a simple battery replacement on your keyfob, do you need to reprogram it? Cuz that would be a biatch!

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No as the serial number is still programmed into the immobilizer and the serial number never gets wiped from the fob, even if you take out the battery.

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Grazi Mile Alpi!

I purchased new key heads online, and SD Porsche dinged me just $75 to program both fobs to work with the 996.

A quick visit to my local Porsche dealer and all is fixed. They were unable to re-program my keys without the original code "996-XXX-XXX-XX" so I had to buy a new keyhead ($200) and have it re-programmed ($71). Not the cheapest solution, but certainly nice to have remote lock/unlock back. The dealer has my key code on file if the key ever needs to be re-programmed again.

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Nice. At least you got it working. What I did after my keyhead replacement was to file away my serial tag in my filing cabinet next to my title but also take a pic of it and send it up to "the cloud" like google picasa or even just emailing it to yourself to have on file. A good backup.