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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHInstalled discs, pads and hardware from Pelican
Leading reported evidence
Replace rear rotors, pads, and sensors last year
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced my rear rotors, pads, and sensors last year.
Leading evidence: 'Replace rear rotors, pads, and sensors last year' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace oil' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Use impact hammer like the one in the youtube video
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used an impact hammer like the one in the Youtube Video.
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Suggestion · Original poster
If I can do it, anyone can--and I swear the only other thing I can do is pull out the MAF and change oil.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
If I can do it, anyone can--and I swear the only other thing I can do is pull out the MAF and change oil. I have no skills.
Got my order of all the stuff and it was right. Also called Pelican to look at my online order and made sure I ordered all the stuff. Blew off the anti squeak shims. Pads, discs, pad hardware and the little screws that secure the discs to the hub.
I already knew how to change pads. The basic steps are to remove the pads and hardware (key, pen and spring). Remove the calipers form the disc (leave them connected to the lines) but not on the disc with a 10mm allen (two bolts). And now the whip: remove the two screw that hold the disc in place. I used an impact hammer like the one in the Youtube Video. Still stripped one.
Three Tips: 1) The youtube video is excellent. just putting these steps in to illustrate how easy it is.
2) The parts from Pelican did not come marked with what went where. Not their fault--they don't print the boxes. Knew the bigger pads go on front. Matched up the pins to see which hardware went where. The 996 part number is on the discs. Googled each one to see what was front left, front right and rear. I shouldn't have had to do that.
3) Whenever I jack up my car I put on the emergency brake. If you do that you want get the disc off. Ask me how I know.
The two wins were I could order the cheaper stuff and I saved on labor. Don't know how much. For those of you about to rain on me for ordering the cheaper parts......I have been on the track and know that it stresses brakes 10 times more than the tooling around I do now. For those who still say do it right (expensive parts) or don't do it, I say ROI. For those who say it's a safety matter regardless of the ROI, show me the data that says the cheaper Pelican brakes are inferior. Live your life.
Great job. Doesn't doing something yourself always feel better? Which brakes did you get?
And keep this post updated from time to time to let us know how the brakes worked out.
I also skipped on the shims. I tried gluing them back in with high temp rtv. That did not work. My pads are a bit aggressive for the street but they scream. Thinking about putting the shims in, but they're so expensive!
I replaced my rear rotors, pads, and sensors last year. I too was surprised by how straightforward and easy it was to do. Having the YT videos and Pelican pictorials allowed me the confidence to do it myself.
If I recall correctly, I figured at that time that the savings by doing the work myself was at least $350.
Some of that savings would be the labor cost, and some would be the parts markup that a shop charges.
I used ECS Tuning's kit and was pleased. I believe it was all OEM stuff.
Am I too frikin "yesterday" thinking that shims used to be included with the pad set? What's this BS about having to buy it as an add on? I saw that at a parts website the other day and I was so annoyed!
.....and I don't have the sensors. They're tied up with a zip tie or something. I don't even remember what they look like. My sensor is a grinding noise when there's no more meat on the bone.
Kind of like that shift indicator light that comes on when you hit the redline.
Sorry, to not answer if you put anything on the pads or rotors the answer is no. I think there is some kind of greasy stuff that may reduce squeaking. Frankly, other than my pagid track pads I've never had squeaking. That may change after a few days of wearing off the "new pad finish" but if it does I'll just turn up the radio. Yep, I like that better than the engine noise.
A general rule of thumb with brake parts is:
996.351.xxx.xx, the 351 will indicate the front of the car
996.352.xxx.xx, the 352 will indicate the back of the car
996.351.405.xx and 996.351.406.xx, the smaller number will go on the left side (driver side) of the car..the larger on the right side
there are some exceptions with brake pads where a 351 could be the rear pad but the above will generally steer you straight.
Yes on the Sacrilege and I covered my headlights with round covers to make my car look like a 911. I'm a maverick. :-)
......and I like to stir up the controversy for no constructive reason. Want me to tell you about the oil I use? It's not interesting but whatever you use will trigger a huge response.
Love this forum.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
