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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFuel filter?
Leading reported evidence
Check tip fluid level and it is fine
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Leading evidence: 'Check tip fluid level and it is fine' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check tip fluid level and it is fine' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Also, the fluid and filter was only changed a few years back.
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Test with my durametric and it's not throwing an codes
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Have tested with my durametric and it's not throwing an codes.
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I've got a 98 Tiptronic thats started giving me problems accelerating up to 2,200 rpm, but is fine above that. Until it gets to 2,200 rpm, it will accelerate a little, hesitate and fall back 100 rpm, surge up another couple of hundred rpm, hesitate again, and so on.
Have tested with my durametric and it's not throwing an codes.
Have checked the tip fluid level and it is fine. Also, the fluid and filter was only changed a few years back.
Have convinced myself it is transmission related, and a local auto transmission specialist believes it is a faulty torque converter.
However, have just read that a clogged fuel filter can cause hesitation. I know it wasn't changed when it should have been at 60k miles, and I'm now at about 120k miles.
Could these symptoms be consistent with a fuel filter problem, or am I clutching at straws?
Greg
Quite possible. It's cheap and easy to replace and it's overdue anyway....
Did you see any misfires on Durametric? How old are the plugs and ignition coils?
It could be the fuel filter. But if it was, the hesitation should be just as bad or worse the higher the RPM.
It might be your torque converter locking and unlocking that is causing the RPMs to go up and down.
My Tiptronic will routinely lock up, usually between 2nd and 3rd gears, dropping a couple hundred RPMs. If circumstances are right (accelerator pedal position, speed, load, etc.) it will unlock again and raise the RPMs a couple hundred.
If the torque converter is locking and unlocking too much you could have an electrical control problem (computer), or any number of mechanical problems with the TC.
No codes at all showing up, so assume it's not misfiring.
Plugs and coils were done at last service last April. Might just try the fuel filter as it is over due anyway.
Hi, yeah this is what I was wondering, if the fact that it is fine above 2,200 rpm meant it couldn't be the fuel filter, and bought be back to the transmission / torque converter.
It's definitely not the torque converter locking and unlocking in a normal way, but could be it doing it as a fault. I had assumed a code would show up though. Maybe I'm wrong though.
Thanks for the post.
Greg
You need to monitor the misfire counters (one counter per each cylinder displayed in Durametric) in real-time. The CEL may be tripped only when the misfires are above some thresholds. So you may still have some misfires but not enough to trip the CEL.
But yes, agree if there are truly no misfires and it's not the fuel filter, then the transmission will be a strong suspect
So now to the stupid question, tried to monitor for misfires this morning, but couldn't find where in Durametric to do this. Tried both Durametric 5 and 6. Could someone point me in the right direction?
Thanks
Greg
Edited to add: here are the options I get under actual values using Durametric 5. It includes "Misfire Detection Active/Inactive", but this is missing for Durametric 6. Does Inactive mean I have a misfire?
RPM (RPM)
Load Signal (ms)
Air Mass (hg/h)
Hot film MAF (V)
Speed (km/h)
Voltage (V)
IATS (degree_C)
ECTS (degree_C)
Throttle plate angle (%)
Ignition timing (degree_crk)
Spec air mass (kg/h)
Spec air adaption (kg/h)
Ambient pressure (hPa)
Injection time (ms)
Exhaust temp after cat converter (degree_C)
Oil temp (degree_C)
Engine compartment temperture (degree_C)
Oxygen sensing cyl 1-3
Oxygen sensing cyl 4-6
Range 2 Cylinder 1-3 (FRA)
Range 2 Cylinder 4-6 (FRA2)
Range 1 Cylinder 1-3 (TRA)
Range 1 Cylinder 4-6 (TRA2)
O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat conv (V)
OS sensor voltage ahead of cat c bank 2 (V)
Camshaft position 1 deviation degree_crk
H02S heat. res. ahead of cat. conv. (Ohm)
Rough-running threshold 1/s2
Rough-running (1/S2)
Segment (A)
Segment (B)
Learn. progress sens. wheel adapt
Misfire detection (active|inactive)
Breaking it down as simple as I can. Spark plugs can certainly cause this, on my shifter kart a bad plug will do exactly this. Check that the metal screw on tip is tight. I have had one with a cracked insulator be held to gether with the boot and when I pulled the top half stayed in the boot. Ran but ran like crap as you describe.
