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YOUR RESEARCHUrgent! Please help!
Leading reported evidence
Replace brake pads
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced my brake pads for the first time yesterday.
Leading evidence: 'Replace brake pads' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace brake pads' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Generally, one can loosen the drain plug, unless whoever installed it before skipped the torque wrench and just guessed at the torque and of course over tightened the thing.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I didn't have a spare drain plug -- I thought I had one in the car's center storage bin but I couldn't find the drain plug -- and there were no drain plugs in stock, in the parts department, but the tech had a spare used but serviceable drain plug in his tool box that he used to get my car back on the road.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I just used my turkey baster to get it back down the max level.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The braking pressure feels great, under abs, hard, & soft braking so I think this means the bleed/fluid change went alright.
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Suggestion
But this damages the wrench bit hole so the next time the wrench is inserted in the drain plug it probably won't be able to go to the bottom of the hole and while one can properly tighten the drain plug the damage to the hole increases.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Generally, one can loosen the drain plug, unless whoever installed it before skipped the torque wrench and just guessed at the torque and of course over tightened the thing.
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1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I didn't have a spare drain plug -- I thought I had one in the car's center storage bin but I couldn't find the drain plug -- and there were no drain plugs in stock, in the parts department, but the tech had a spare used but serviceable drain plug in his tool box that he used to get my car back on the road.
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27 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T222516Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi everyone,
I replaced my brake pads for the first time yesterday. Overall it was a very easy process, but I managed to break one of the the retaining pins. I have a track day tomorrow, so I need the car to be running. My question is whether I can replace this with a non-porsche pin(this type of pin is very common on R/C cars).
Also I managed to strip the stupid oil pan oil-release bolt, so I'm hoping midas can pop that out for me. I luckily bought a spare one. It'd be nice if they could just pop it out and put the new one in immediately without waiting for the oil to drain.
Broke a pin and stripped a drain plug?
Sorry for your delima. Maybe quit before something worse happens. I would recommend YOU get the proper part for your brake pin, you're not on a winning streak. And hopefully the plug can be extracted, but the pan may have to be removed. Don't ove tighten the new one, too many people do.
Hi guys,
Yeah my luck hasn't been too great. The drain plug wasn't in the best shape before, and I was using the right size hex bit, so that was just bad luck. The pin was my stupidity. I got over-excited at replacing one side, and I hammered out the retaining rod without taking the pin out.
I got one from home depot that looks almost identical, slightly smaller diameter though. At this point I'm committed to going to the track, so I guess I'll just have to make do with this and keep monitoring it.
I know what pins you're talking about having owned some RC cars myself. It's just a retaining pin for a retaining pin for the brake pads. It's under no real load under than high heat. The brake pad retaining pins are usually held in place by the brake pad springplate alone so I wouldn't sweat the little clip you lost. That being said be careful!
The COTTER PIN is what I"M assuming you broke. I"m sure any pin from ace hardware or whatever will suffice.
Good luck getting the guys to remove the plug and then try to put a new one back in while the oil is flushing out.....
The lock pin is there to simply keep the brake pin from backing out. As the lock pin has no load applied you should be able to use a strand of .020 safety wire or a regular cotter pin. Not sure if the OEM pin is hardened so I would replace it as soon as you get a replacement.
If you can get the old oil drain plug out, you can swap in a new one w/o loosing to much oil. I had to do this as my plug bolt "SPLIT" in half during my first oil change. The bolt alloy is quite soft and easily damaged, but better the bolt than the pan. You will need to work quick with the change and it helps if the engine is cold so you don't scald yourself in the process.
Aron
I can just imagine the 'pit in the stomach' feeling the OP must have felt when this all happened. Looks like things have worked out and the comments above are on the money. At first I thought he was talking about the 5 or 6mm pin was broke....thinking how the _ _ _ _ do you do that?
Hi guys,
Yeah things were looking pretty bad for a moment there. I just bled the brakes, and this one gave me another headache as I couldn't get all of the old fluid out(I don't have anything that could fit in the reservoir hole). I ended just letting the brakes bleed out a lot. I went through all 2 liters of new fluid.
None of the guides said anything about removing excess fluid from the master cylinder when you're done. I just used my turkey baster to get it back down the max level.
As for the oil, I'm going to be installing the x51 oil pan anyway. So I think I'm just going to crack open one side of the oil pan, and drain from the side. It'll be messy, but I need to drive 2 hours to the track tonight so I don't really have a lot of options.
Working on the car the day before a track event = not a good idea!
You're going to crack open one side of your oil pan to drain it? I have no idea what your experience level with cars and mechanical things in general is, but it sounds like you could use an experienced hand. I'd take your car to a mechanic or have a more knowledgeable friend help you out. I definitely wouldn't want to be on the track with someone that has a potential leaking oil pan, poorly bled brakes, and a missing cotter pin.
S.
Save yourself some trouble...I did this with my 944 and still couldn't get it out. But it was REALLY frozen.
IRWIN makes a tool that is like a socket with sharp claw things...oh wait the 996 oil pan plug is recessed so that won't work...but if you have one that you attach with a socket instead of a hex key they are awesome. They were totally great for the 944.
By crack open I meant remove all the pan bolts and release the seal on one side of the oil pan, draining from the side. I just got done with this, it was clean and painless, and no damage to any parts.
My mechanic as well as others on the board ok'ed my using a replacement cotter pin for the time being. The correct one is on order from suncoast.
For the brake bleeding, I was extra careful to get rid of all the air bubbles, bleeding more than probably what was necessary. I was just wondering why no diy's mentioned reducing the master cylinder level after the process, to get the level back down to max. The power bleeder filled up the master cylinder all the way with fluid. (please let me know if I'm doing something wrong though. I thought I followed Loren's DIY to the T on renntech).
Looks like I can get the x51 pan in. It's a good thing the stripped plug didn't turn into a big problem for me!
If you're referring to the oil drain plug what happens is because the 8mm wrench hole is such a close fit sometimes the 8mm hex wrench doesn't get inserted all the way. There's some kind of a resistance -- initially from the tight fit (air pressure) -- that fools one into thinking the wrench is inserted all the way when it is not.
Generally, one can loosen the drain plug, unless whoever installed it before skipped the torque wrench and just guessed at the torque and of course over tightened the thing.
But this damages the wrench bit hole so the next time the wrench is inserted in the drain plug it probably won't be able to go to the bottom of the hole and while one can properly tighten the drain plug the damage to the hole increases.
At some point the short/shallow engagement allows the bit to twist in the hole without loosening the drain plug and well the plug needs to be removed.
In some cases if one uses some force he can drive the bit all the way to the bottom and remove the drain plug. I've watched a Porsche tech do this after I took my car to a quickie lube joint during which unbeknownst to me the tech did just what I stated above: only inserted the bit just about halfway. (I had changed this car's oil many times (and not a few times had the oil changed at a Porsche dealership's service department) and the car had its original drain plug. This is because I and the techs knew enough to insert the bit all the way into the hole.)
Ayhow, the Porsche tech managed to get the bit all the way in and remove the loosen and drain plug but the bit was stuck to the plug. I didn't have a spare drain plug -- I thought I had one in the car's center storage bin but I couldn't find the drain plug -- and there were no drain plugs in stock, in the parts department, but the tech had a spare used but serviceable drain plug in his tool box that he used to get my car back on the road.
While he was buttoning up the car I went into the parts department and ordered two new ones and when they came in I gave him one with a big "thanks".
The other thing was the bit was stuck on the drain plug or the drain plug was stuck on the bit. Stuck pretty good too. The tech managed to get it free after I left (I found out later).
The bottom line is if you or anyone changes the oil he must ensure the drain plug wrench bit is of course the right size (and in good condition -- these can wear out and should be replaced -- and inserted all the way into the drain plug hole. Roughly the bit fits one and one half times its diameter in the hole. When the thing is inserted too shallow it fits in maybe just half way in. Not enough.
Sincerely,
Macster.
I'm definitely getting this one.
I took the car out for a couple of drives, bedded in the brakes. The braking pressure feels great, under abs, hard, & soft braking so I think this means the bleed/fluid change went alright. Likewise, oil pressure is at 4.75 bar under full throttle, slightly above 2 at idle. So right now, it looks like I'm in the clear. Hopefully the 2 hour drive to the track will bring to light any serious problems if they exist. I'll definitely be taking it easy the first few sessions. Thanks for the help guys.
