Buying a little used 996 Cab - need advice

I will be looking at a 2001 C2 Cab this weekend and need some advice on checking it out. This is a car that a close acquaintance has had since new, but it hasn't been started in 2 years (has about 40,000 miles). I was wondering if I could get some advice on trying to start it up and drive it. The car has not had the IMS fixed, or any major mechanical work (some little things have been fixed - like alternator, mouse damage , etc..). Is there anything I really need to be cautious about before trying to put a battery in (or charge the old one) and start it up? I plan on getting it to an independent to do a PPI, but I'd like to drive it there. So, any big risk in trying to fire it up? I haven't read of many "barn fresh" 996's, and I just want to be safe.... Thanks

why was the car "parked" for the past 2 years? that reason will help you decide: try to start it or put it on a flatbed straight to a mechanic.

Unless the fuel was treated, it's probably bad. I'd drain and replace the fuel at least before trying to fire it up. M96 experts, will enough oil seep into the engine over that much time to require clearing the cylinders before firing it up? Depending on the environment it's stored in, the brake fluid may have absorbed a fair amount of water and need replacement. This wouldn't be an issue for first start, but you'd definitely want to do it before getting the brakes good and hot.

Kromdom - The engine was running fine before it was parked. The owner had been stranded earlier when the alternator went and lost trust in the car and some time later stopped driving it. 5CHN3LL - I need to ask if the fuel was treated - it is possible, because it was not driven in winter so that was possibly the procedure the owner followed each year. If it has gone bad, would it damage the fuel/injection system to start it (if it starts)? I never thought about the oil seepage possibility. Thanks!

You're probably going to want to replace the water pump too and think about replacing all the fluids.

I think I am beginning to get the message - I'll just need to have it towed to a shop to get it running and then a PPI!

Old fuel could cause flakes/chunks of varnish to plug up the fuel filter and the fuel already in the lines past the filter could clog the injectors. It might start, probably will not run good, and the longer you run it with the stale fuel the worse chance of clogging and damage. At the very least, empty the tank and start with fresh fuel. I would be just as concerned about the prior mouse damage. Make sure you understand what the damage was and how it was repaired to be certain you are not buying a rats nest of wiring problems. As others have said, figure on servicing nearly everything with fluids/liquids. Oil, brake, possibly coolant (water pump for sure), It is at the mileage that it needs a good servicing and so figure plugs, belt, filters, etc. too. Could be a good find, but don't let excitement cause you to look past the issues that need attention. Budget accordingly when negotiating the price. Its sad to hear of these instances of cars left unattended to their sometimes severe detriment.

Thanks Spokayman - the prior mouse damage was repaired correctly at the servicing dealer, so, as long as they haven't gotten to it again (owner has been occasionally checking it and putting deterrent in the strategic places, so we're remain positive till we learn they're back). And I'll heed the warning about the fuel - if it wasn't treated, I'll definitely pass on starting it till its cleaned out. I am pretty sure this will be a good deal, and the seller will want to put it straight...

First of all: What a shame! Why would someone let a Porsche sit for 2 years and not drive it. Like everyone said, you're in for full fluid exchange with perhaps the only exception being the tranny & diff. I wonder why oil would travel up from the pan into the cylinders? Educate me.

If it was mine, Because it stood for 2 years, I wouldn't even consider a PPI so soon. I would read everything there is to know about the 2001 model. I would price up everything I could as preventative DIY maintenance. ie:-all fluids including gas. Brake pads, plugs, belt, filters, coolant, even engine mounts and tires and new battery & figure total cost into the deal. Check carefully that the top and alarm system is working correctly. If it has the matching hard top, better still. Then run it to the PPI guy. Tell him only to check for the things I haven't been able to address. Because of the cost of parts, If I could get it for $15000 tops then I would get it. If not, I would look elsewhere.

Before to get the car tow : - Did the owner negotiate (as is) price with you? - When you're taking the car to the shop and if the car runs and damage is created, who will be responsible? you? or the owner? (Get that in paper) -If everything runs ok change All fluids : brake, oil, transmission, serpentine belt, spark plugs and tires, pay extra and get the brakes inspected, at 40000 miles more than likely they need to be changed Oh and by the way

Thanks for the additional advice. I am not very worried about trying to figure all the re-commisioning work into the purchase price; the first thing is to get it back on the road and I'll be assured a very fair price. The car is not on the market and is owned by a person who is very close to my family and has just decided that they have no more interest in it. I am planning to call a local shop today to see what they recommend regarding getting it running safely.

GDI, it sounds like you're very confident that your transaction will go well - but any auto transaction between family and friends has the ability to go south like any other, and in fact, seem more likely to. Getting stuff on paper is a great way to help ensure that you and the current owner are still friends once this car is out of the way. I won't ever sell cars to family. I won't even GIVE a car to a family member - it's just too likely to wreck Thanksgiving for years to come.

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Especially if the current owner bought the 996 new, they may be shocked at "clean retail" value less deferred maintenance value!

I am not worried about having a deal go south in this particular situation, but I appreciate the tips. Right now the biggest thing is getting the car back on the road and making sure it is properly assessed - so we know exactly where things stand with it.

An update, and, yes, pics. I had the car trucked to the shop today, so I got a good look at it and the paperwork. First, it is a C4, I had thought it was a C2, and according to the window sticker it is Meridian Metallic (kind of champagne, IMO) with the "Comfort Package", "Advanced Technic Package", turbo look wheels, and leather seats and wheel, and hardtop. That's good. The bad part is that it looks like mice got to it - they jumped out of the car when we were taking it off the truck. Our fingers are crossed that the damage is light!

The C4 has the more solid chassis anyway. Rip out the front wheel drive stuff if you want a C2 and get the benefits of the stiffer chassis. Good luck with the mouse stuff...hopefully they were just nesting there with stuff they got elsewhere, and not with wire insulation.

How stiff a chassis is on the C4 against the C2? When I jack from front or rear side jacking point, both wheels lift off the floor on that jacked up side of my 99 C2. How stiff does he want the chassis to be I wonder?

My 2cents...here's my list of likely re-commissioning costs for a 40K/10+ year old car that has sat unused/unloved for 2 years: Oil/coolant drains and fill = $600 Water pump and coolant tank replacement = $750 New tires = $1200 New battery = $200 Periodic mtnce., like the 60K items = serpentine belt, plugs, +misc. filters = $600 Well, so far we're into our check book for about $4000 and have not even allowed for "while we're in here" stuff, or an IMSB and clutch replacement. Frankly, I don't think such a car should command an "as is" price higher than the "low teens".

5CHN3LL - I think I can live with the C4 - it snows on occasion in Connecticut. So, I'll live it as is. reniluca- $200 for a battery! I should have put one in myself for $80! As for the tires - they are in good condition, I think they will last a couple of years, also the shop said the brake rotors are likely fine - just some surface rust. Sounds like I'll need the rest of the items you mentioned. I asked for a PPI just so we know where everything stands, and if it is good to go for a LNE bearing, we'll do that. Right now, I am most worried about the rodent situation- that could slow things down considerably and be costly. I know we'll be shocked at the bill. But, we want it well sorted and ready to go - deferred maintenance stinks really! Thanks for the tips.

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I don't know how much the extra sheet metal that houses the front-wheel-drive diff and components adds, but I do know that my C4 almost always pops the inboard wheel off the ground when I drive up any driveway apron. The same locations, in my Boxster, didn't typically result in a wheel losing ground contact, but I've never driven a C2, so I can't offer a direct C2 vs. C4 comparison. I can say that the C4 is the stiffest car I've ever driven, and it makes my Corvette, even with added bracing, feel absolutely floppy in comparison.

You'll really only notice the added stiffness on the track and even only if you remove the AWD from the front. C4 had to be made stiffer to deal with the AWD components. GT3 used the same C4 chassis because it was a race car. None of it is detectable on the streets. My C2 also lifts front and rear easily with one jack point.

An update on the car - a couple of good news items -1, the original IMSB was dual row (and in good shape) so I hope for that to be good for 75,000 miles (the mechanic estimated), and 2, the mice had just nested on top of the engine - no damage. The only items left to sort are the brakes - they need to be cleaned at least - (hopefully nothing more) and the tires had flat spots from sitting for years - those may be ok with some miles. Getting close to getting it my garage....

Double check the IMS. As far as I know, all 2001's had single row. All 99's had the double row and some of the 00's were mixed. How can you tell what bearing it had without pulling it out?

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Actually, I wasn't really that surprised that my 2001 had the dual row; I had looked the vin up on the settlement site and it wasn't covered, I figured that may be why. The mechanic told me it was dual row and I trust that is correct because he already upgraded it.

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Great! Now lets see some more exterior pics. It looks silver on my computer. Oh - and check and clean all the drains before you drive it in the rain. I learned that one the hard way.