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YOUR RESEARCHDo I have to change out rotors with pads?
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vehicles taking up space waiting
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Only issue is vehicles taking up space waiting on parts.
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However, I recently replaced the front pads on my F250 and my shop turned the rotors for me w/o my even asking and only charged me about $50/rotor.
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I just bought mine in January and replaced only the pads.
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I finally changed out the original rotors at ~115,000 miles, although I changed pads a number of times.
Replace rotors(pagid) and pads(akebono) front and rear and paid $341.58
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In January, I replaced my rotors(Pagid) and pads(Akebono) front and rear and paid $341.58.
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The original rotors on my car are quite rusted by now (on the inside), so after tracking the car 2 years ago, my mechanic recommended I replace the rotors the next time I do pad.
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Suggestion
Stealerships are famous for strongly recommending new rotors when it is time for new pads but it is not always necessary when the old rotors are still in good condition and well within spec.
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Suggestion
Do you get enough circulation through the braking system to effectively change enough of the fluid after 3 or 4 times at, say, monthly replacement intervals?
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I'm 2 years out of a brake fluid swap so having that done at my next service. I checked the rotors and there is the ever so slightest bit of a ridge and the rotors themselves are in fantastic shape no cracking etc. They are bright shiny and literally look perfect besides the smallest micro fraction of a lip. So rather than spend $1,500 on a full brake rotor swap would it be such a terrible thing to swap out only the fluids and the pads? Let me know if I'm crazy here. I'll swap out the rotors if it's a must but seems like such a waste considering they are almost perfect.
I'll let other more experienced members chime in but I think you should be ok if there is minimal wear on the rotors. I'd just make sure you properly bed in the new pads. You could also have the rotors resurfaced, although not sure if that's something that is done on drilled rotors.
Agreed. The original rotors on my car are quite rusted by now (on the inside), so after tracking the car 2 years ago, my mechanic recommended I replace the rotors the next time I do pad. But we did 2 pad swaps before that.
Its important to measure the thickness of the rotors and inspect them for tiny cracks, and check for straightness.
Check the lip on the inside of the rotor. My experience, on my car, is the inside of the rotor wears faster than the outside. But no, you don't HAVE to replace the rotors.
I finally changed out the original rotors at ~115,000 miles, although I changed pads a number of times. After finally changing both at the same time, can't say I notice any real difference.
If the measurements are in spec, and there are no cracks, reuse the rotors.
If you need rotors, go with Pagid.
They don’t rust, and don’t cost a lot either.
In January, I replaced my rotors(Pagid) and pads(Akebono) front and rear and paid $341.58.
I supplied the labor.
Easy job!
Current "wisdom" is to replace the rotors w/the pads, mainly because few shops turn rotors anymore.
If there is just a "slight" edge to the rotors, I personally would turn rather than replace them but I'm "old school" when it comes to such things but if there is very little wear on the rotors, you'll probably "get by" by doing nothing.
The dealer is going to replace everything so that they can cover a full warranty.
I was just watching a Porsche club video on youtube about brakes. They stated that if there is more than a 1 mm lip on the end of the rotor they should be replaced.
I just bought mine in January and replaced only the pads. My front rotors have at least a 2 mm lip if not more by now. I'm going to let it wear and keep an eye on it. I'm routing Porsche dollars to spark plugs and coil packs. The next project is a water pump and hoses. I'm going to let it ride and when these pads get thin, or the rotors get thin, I'll replace everything.
Thats because most shops around here (that have brake lathes) charge $75 to turn a rotor.
I can buy most rotors for less money.
If I plan ahead, I can make more money/save customer more money by ordering new rotors.
Only issue is vehicles taking up space waiting on parts.
I thought about buying a lathe and turning my own rotors.
But they are not small, and space is precious.
Also lots of my customers wait until they‘re metal to metal, and then drive to me. (sometimes they drive to a couple of shops and back home and to work and back home before bringing them to me.
Most rotors are junk when they bring their cars to me.
I’ve seen pads that had no material, and were incredibly thin when I disassembled them.
they really chew up the rotors.
This is not my picture, but I‘ve seen similar!
You'll also need to bed them in properly. Some variation of a half dozen or so stops from 60 to 30, then 60 to full stop, with cool down in-between each would do the trick.
Speaking of rotors, did you all see this post on Rennlist marketplace?
For the price of a 996, you could have a set of 991 brakes and rotors. Yikes.
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1216293
OEM Porsche Carbon Ceramic Brakes (PCCB) from 2016 991.1 GT3 RS
Brakes
StonyoRS
10-07-2020 10:40 AM
2/4
Price
$19,500
Location
Newport Beach, CA, 92660, USA
Condition
How did you manage to wear through a set of pads yet keep the rotors in almost like-new condition? In my experience, wearing out a set of pads on a Porsche also causes some real wear to the rotor when using OEM steel rotors and pads.
+1
Stealerships are famous for strongly recommending new rotors when it is time for new pads but it is not always necessary when the old rotors are still in good condition and well within spec.
Obvious statements and mimicking ahead: If this is up for popular vote, I vote no. As long as the full thickness meets the spec. Mic at several locations around the rotor. Also, the surface should be smooth( define smooth...)
Let's not forget that not all pads are equal. When braking you have two surfaces rubbing against one another and wear will happen - that's a given. Technically rotors are made from a much harder material and will wear slower, where as pads can be organic, semi-metallic or ceramic, to name a few. Those have different attributes and will either wear faster or slower and in some cases can cause squealing noise and varying amount of dust. From what I understand, ceramic type pads will wear rotors much more than organic or semi metallic. They all have their applications and it might just depend on the driving you do and the pedal feel you want at the brakes.
I'm more replacing everything because I'm doing a fluid swap... not that I necessarily need new pads or rotors. I could easily get another 10k out of them, but kind of a while I'm working on it thing. I do not track my car and have only done a few mountain runs therefore I don't stress the brakes much beyond regular driving.
Indeed, it's basically a cost comparison issue as far as buying new or turning old rotors.
Would still opt for new on my 911 even if turning were available, because the additional cost is not that great.
However, I recently replaced the front pads on my F250 and my shop turned the rotors for me w/o my even asking and only charged me about $50/rotor. Thought that was a fair price compared w/buying new ones which I didn't think was necessary
You just quadrupled your work. Changing the fluid is a very simple process and depending on the rims you have, might not even need to remove them. There is even a simpler way of doing it but it takes a few times before the all the fluid is clean. You just take a turkey baster and place the fluid in the reservoir. Then a month later do it again. repeat this until your fluid is clear. Usually after the 3rd time it will be.
I bought this caliper from Amazon that is specifically for measuring rotor thickness and it was around $45. It's one of those tools that doesn't get used that often but I do all my own work on all five cars so I thought the cost was justifiable for the peace of mind.
I've often wondered about this turkey baster method of changing brake fluid. Does it really work? Does the reservoir hold enough fluid, in relation to the total volume of the system, to make this method viable? Do you get enough circulation through the braking system to effectively change enough of the fluid after 3 or 4 times at, say, monthly replacement intervals? I doubt I would ever try this method but it may be an effective time saver for cars that require removal of the wheels to bleed the brakes for a fluid change.
As noted by others, if the discs are in fine condition there's absolutely no need to change them. Once your new pads are in I'd suggest a good bed-in cycle to lay down a nice pad transfer layer on the discs. You can
see a bed in video in our essex learning center
. If you track your car, another good video to watch would be our video "How to swap between street and race pads".
Brake fluid doesn't circulate in our cars. You remove the old fluid with a turkey baster from the master cylinder and replace it with new fluid and then start bleeding at the calipers. That way you start drawing fresh fluid through the lines more quickly than trying to push the old fluid in the master through the lines.
Of course it works otherwise the fluid in the reservoir would not get dirty.
It's a slow process but if you keep doing it every now and then, you will always have fresher fluid that if you did a complete flush every so many years.
Are you are saying that over time eventually some of the brake fluid that gets pushed against the caliper piston makes its way back to the master? There is no pump that circulates fluid around the brake lines. Have you ever noticed how dark brake fluid in the caliper is compared to the fluid in the master cylinder?
Perhaps I misunderstood the OP's comment on circulating the fluid.
Yes the fluid slowly circulates and don't need a physical pump for this to happen due to convection helped by thermal expansion. Go get a glass of water, put a ice cube in it and a couple of drop of food dye to see how this works.......or better yet, just watch a lava lamp after it heats up. Both of these work on the same principal but in a much faster scale. Yes, there always will be more dirty fluid in the calipers but over time if you keep swapping out the reservoir, that new fluid will make it's way to the caliper too. If it didn't, the reservoir fluid will always remain clean but it doesn't.
