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YOUR RESEARCHPads and rotors
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Replace caliper bolts as
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I replaced the caliper bolts as recommended as well.
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For example I replaced my Mercedes OE pads with Akebonos and yeah it's nice that there is no dust but it has no frikin grip!
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Edit - Also replaced all of the caliper bolts which is recommended, though some find it unnecessary.
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On my '01, I replaced the rear rotors when I changed the rear pads at 51K miles.
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On my '01, I replaced the rear rotors when I changed the rear pads at 51K miles.
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Suggestion
One of the first things to do when considering replacing your brakes should be to measure the rotor thickness to determine how much rotor wear life is left.
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My beloved '99 cabrio w/74K miles is finally in need of F+R pads and front rotors...the red "Brake wear" light just came on and about a year ago a dealer tech measured the rotors and reported "Start saving your $$; you'll need front rotors and F+R pads soon". So I'm not too surprised about this.
Rennlist comments seem to favor using OEM rotors and Textar (or Hawk)pads, given my driving habits. Comments?
Also, I favor replacing the rear rotors at this time, too, although they measured "OK" last fall. Comments?
FYI-My car is a bone stock daily driver, no track time, and only occasionally "pushed".
Thx,
relinuca
You'll get a lot if opinions on this AGAIN. But it basically boils down to YOUR priorities: initial cold bite, low dusting, rotor friendly,squeaking,brake fade, longevity, etc. Pick a few of these and order them of importance but you won't find a pad that hits on all these points.
I don't think none of us can recommend a pad without knowing your priorities. A lot of peeps tend to recommend what works best for THEIR priorities usually.
As for rotors, I've usually been able to get nearly double the life on the rears vs the fronts. It's your call whether your the type that squeezes that toothpaste to death or the type that tends to throw away the toothpaste when it starts getting difficult to get some out.
We offer two different brake service kits that include everything you need for the dealer tech to do the job. It all depends what you want to do, but from the sounds of it I would lean towards the OE kit we offer. For more information
Click Here
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OE Kit Includes the following parts:
~Sebro coated front & rear rotors
~Mintex front & rear pads
~URO brake pad wear sensors
~ECS stainless steel rotor set screws
~AGS Syl-Glide Silicone Brake lubricant
A daily-driven, never tracked car doesn't need any setup more aggressive than the stock brakes. If you feel that your brakes were already good enough, there's no reason to upgrade.
If the rear rotors are worn, replace them. If they're not worn, don't - unless you're paying someone else to do the work and you can get a better deal than doing front and rears separately.
You can DIY brakes with minimal tools and knowledge and save yourself about half the cost of going the dealer route...if you're so inclined.
I am in same boat with my 2004 40th AE. Light just went off and I know need rotors but I want to go OEM all around served me well so far for almost 75k miles. Any deals on OEM brake fit w/ rotors & pads all around?
I find OEM pads are dusty. I had the same issue with my Mercedes. Now granted we are talking about two different animals, but I went with Akebono pads on my MB. I plan to see if they make an application for the 911. I was very happy with them. Good perfomance, zero dust, quiet...in my opinion great for a daily driver. Not sure how they hold up under agressive/track driving. Just my two cents.
I used Zimmerman rotors on front with Textar pads and would do the same next time it's needed. Haven't done the rear pads or rotors yet because they don't need it.(68k miles)
We do offer the same kits for the 40th and if you don't like whats included in them I can always build you a kit, if you would like of just what you want, just shoot me a PM. For more information on the 40th kits and brake components,
Click Here
.
Definitely a DIY job. There are some great step-by-step videos on YouTube. I did my pads, rotors, and dampers all around with OEM parts, but that's just the way I do things. Probably could have saved a lot of money going aftermarket. I had never done brakes on any car before and found this not very difficult to do after reading everything I could find on the forums and watching the videos a few times.
Edit - Also replaced all of the caliper bolts which is recommended, though some find it unnecessary.
Edit - Links to the very excellent videos on YouTube:
DIY - changing front brakes on a water-cooled Porsche - YouTube
DIY - changing rear brakes (and adjusting parking brake) on a water-cooled Porsche - YouTube
Porsche brakes have got to be the easiest I have ever done. Why do you think you need new rotors, you may be able to just have them turned, get some of the imperfections off them if any (lines, grooves, etc) if they arent that bad, most places only charge 10-15 bucks to turn em, than you just have to worry about pads, if you are careful with the sensors, they and everything else is reusable.
OP's mechanic indicated they were getting too thin when he measured them. One of the first things to do when considering replacing your brakes should be to measure the rotor thickness to determine how much rotor wear life is left. I would only consider machining the rotors if they were lightly worn and had some sort of light surface defect (warping, etc.).
On my '01, I replaced the rear rotors when I changed the rear pads at 51K miles. The rotors had about 30% of their wear thickness left. I think total wear thickness is something like 2MM and I had .6 to .8MM of wear left. So, if the rotors were not replaced now, they would likely be too thin by the time the second set of pads wore out. The front rotors were already replaced by an earlier owner of the car at what I would guess to be 40K miles.
I agree that it is an easy DIY.
I also used ECS's kit and found it to work well. I replaced the caliper bolts as recommended as well.
Sebro rotors are oe equivalent and will save you $ . I also went with textar pads. Turned rwar rotors since they were still in spec. Very happy , including one track day ....
Didn't want to start a new thread. Im interested in product information about pads and rotors. I read the reviews and they are usually very stupid like "easy to install" or "works" or some stupid **** like that. And my response to those idiots is: "Oh really!"
Anyway there are a few brands I've seen and I'm interested in your experience on several aspects, namely:
Pads: Stopping power and grip? I don't care about dust. I care about stopping distance. For example I replaced my Mercedes OE pads with Akebonos and yeah it's nice that there is no dust but it has no frikin grip! Noise? Fading!?
Rotors: Ability to handle heat and resistance to warping? Noise?
The brands I've seen are the following: OE of course, Sebro, Textar, Zimmerman, ATE, Akebono, Bosch, Mintex, Pagid and some others.
Thanks in advance for all the information. You guys rock!
I got Zimmerman rotors and they perform just like the originals, which is to say well. If you don't mind them screaming and dusting all the time, ferodo ds2500 have tons of bite! If you want even more dust (inconceivable amounts) go for hawk dtc. I have a rear pair I'll sell you that have only one track day on them.
Hawk HPS pads are noisy compared to others' but they produce little dust, have very good stopping power and cheap. It's the pad I use when replacing brakes in my cars.
I have Pagid RS 29 PADS on my 99 C4 from the PO. Seem to work well, quiet, stop well, I have not been to the track with them yet. I did notice that first application after long haul at frwy speeds in the pouring rain that they need a little more initial pressure to dry? Them out. Enough that it would probably get the wife a little tweeky if she had been driving.
I picked up some Cool Carbon closeout performance pads when I picked up my 996 in 9/2012 - and I replaced them in 2013 with plenty of life left. The Cool Carbon pads were grippy when hot, but when they were cold, they were UNGODLY loud.
The Mintex pads I replaced them with are plenty grippy - they've hauled the 996 down from panic stop, they did not overheat during a VERY fast 8,000 foot downhill mountain blast during which I set new personal best times (and got the brakes hot enough to be really stinky), and at all temps they have enough grunt to bust into ABS.
As much as I'd like to be able to justify more expensive pads, the Mintex pads have not failed me. Good part, good price.
Thanks for all the info guys. I keep hearing that Mintex is pretty good. How about Pagid (and which color)?
Rotors? Myle, Sebro? The price of Zimmermans tell me that it's probably good.
I have used both Balo and Zimmerman on my cars with perfectly acceptable results.
I ran Hawk HPS pads on my Boxster, by the way, and they were fine for both daily driving and autocross.
FYI-be advised that Mintex, Pagid, Textar, and several other pad and rotor brands are all part of the TMD Friction Group as owned by the Nisshinbo Group, a Japanese global conglomerate with manufacturing sites in several countries.
Now, that's not to say that there are not product differences between such brands, but such differences are likely attributable to owner/application differences, say miss-matches, than any general "one's better than the other" situation.
relinuca
