Precautionary measures? Parts to be changed?

I was thinking if there are any precautionary measures one could take to keep the car happy in relation to minimize future major damages? As per my list below, only the water pump has been changed as a precaution and I was wondering if there was something else I should have changed? Oil pump? Air/Oil separator? Something else? The car is getting ready for it's yearly service (The small one this year) and thought I'd ask Porsche to have something else changed just to be 100% sure. I'm not having the IMS done before the clutch needs changing which still have a lot left in it so no need to mention this. While on the subject, will Porsche do the IMS by automation when changing the clutch or do I have to ask for it specifically? Anyone know what this is called in German or French? Each time the mechanic has had the car in I'm told that all is top notch but I gather they will not know if a part is about to have had it due to age or? Any pointers are welcomed as I want to do the big European road trip this coming summer and do not want to breakdown mid Germany ;-)

All I do before heading out on a road trip is have the car roadworthiness inspected to check for any leaks, torn CV boots, or something in a tire. I make sure -- well almost always and the one time I didn't I paid for it -- the tires are not too worn. The one time I ignored the tech's recommendation to replace a pair of worn rear tires a tire picked up a nail or 3 and I have to drive nearly 1K miles out of my way to get a new set of tires installed. In between road trips I keep the car serviced and have any issues dealt with. This last trip I will have to get the oil/filter service done as I left the house with around 3K miles on the oil and the road trip has added another 2K miles. I have a tentative appointment to have the engine oil/filter service done later today. I just have to drive over 100 miles in very cold temperature (it is currently 11F with a windchill of -6F -- wind blowing 23mph to 28mph). If you replace the water pump and T-stat you still have the risk the new hardware will fail so you still have to be observant. If you replace the water pump and T-stat what about the hoses? The AOS? Battery? Starter? Alternator? The list is nearly endless. Of course you can do what you feel gives you the peace of mind you seek. Regardless of what you do, my advice would still be to carry a fully charged cell phone, and have a good road side assistance/auto club membership in case you have a break down -- a flat tire is the usual cause -- you can count on prompt service and a flat bed tow to the nearest dealer or Porsche indy. Have addresses/phone numbers of these along your route already in your contacts so you don't have to do a search on the side of the road.

Frank, IMS hei�t Zwischenwellenlager auf Deutsch. Vielleicht als Vorschlag, le� mal: http://www.pff.de/porsche/board104-p...plungswechsel/ . Viel Erfolg! mark

As has been the case in the past, though I hoped this phase had passed, a run of the mill service of my Turbo has turned into something more. I booked the car into the Porsche dealer service department for its 5K mile (130K miles) oil/filter service before the 2K mile drive home. In the waiting room the SM came and said the tech found something. This generally doesn't end well. Long story short the tech found all 3 radiators leaking coolant. With the bumper cover removed it was obvious the radiators were leaking. All hoses/hose connections were dry and free of any leak sign whatsoever. The tech had the cooling system under some pressure and the leaks looked to be where the tank joined the radiator proper. Now in CA where I live and drive my info is radiator leaks are rare. Barring one arising from corrosion radiators just don't leak. The passenger side radiator in my 02 Boxster is original. I had to replace the driver side radiator after hitting some road debris. I do not recall now when this happened but it was quite a few years (and miles) ago. In any case the one radiator is 13 years old and has covered 288K miles. And is still working just fine. Before I left CA I had the car inspected by a senior tech at the local dealer. I was under it myself with my flashlight too. There there was no sign of any coolant leak and we both checked the front of the car quite thoroughly. My WAG is the brutal cold (down into the single digits) of the last few days with the radiators cooling way down then getting hot as I drove the car around took the radiators over the edge. I'm sure the coolant didn't freeze. My point is that if you begin this preemptive replacement thing you had better add new radiators to the list. I don't know about the N/A car's radiator cost, but I'm facing a $4400 bill for replacing the 3 radiators in my 996 Turbo.

Up to date on maintenance, good tires, have fun! If you start replacing everything that COULD break, pretty soon you'll have a brand new car.

You didn't mention current mileage or history in re. the brake system, so certainly add this to your pre-trip check list. relinuca

Macster, if they're leaking at the seam, can a radiator repair shop rebraze the weak joints?

Thanks for the utter useful replies @Macster My Porsche mechanic keep saying that all looks tip top with the car (it only has 95'000 km on the clock) and service has been kept to the km (and/or month) so it has been looked after very well. I have had the oil changed every year (well twice so far) and oil filter and again the mechanic has not mentioned anything about the dreaded metal shavings in filter. I guess that if I keep worrying about changing parts it will end up with a new engine over periods so best to maybe just trust Porsche in Bern (which I kind of already do)... How long do I have from when the brake warnings come on until they need to be changed? I do not have any such yet and the seller told me he thought there was about 20'000 km left when I bought the car which is about 12'000 km ago, depending on how I drive - I'm your typical Sunday afternoon driver :-D I did get the break fluid changed as recommended in 2013 and nothing else was mentioned about the brakes otherwise (I asked for a full inspection). @Mark I Thanks for the translation. Will come in handy when I have the clutch changed ;-) While on the subject when should one change the clutch? I have not had my own car before so very difficult for me to know how the gear change in reality should be in relation to the clutch... Damn, I'm such a n00bie ;-)

Good advice as always. Macster. $4400 for the rads? Ouch!

Quotes source post: 11940300

About the same I had to pay for having them changed on my C4S here in Switzerland...

Quotes source post: 11940274

Typically when the brake wear light comes on you don't need to stop driving the car but don't let it go more than 500Km or so. The wear may be uneven and damage your rotors. Chances are you will need to change your rotors with the brakes anyway. Clutch depends on driving style. If you are the type (or the previous owner) that rides the clutch (as they say) meaning hangs on to the clutch fairly long before releasing, then chances are your clutch will run out sooner. If you have a tendency to release your clutch fairly quickly but yet gently it should last longer. How long is not easy to answer. Well driven clutches could go for as much as 160K Km. But abused ones may not last more than 8K Km. When was it changed last? Do you notice any slippage? How far up does the clutch release when you depress the pedal? These will tell you if the clutch is gone or getting ready to go.

Thanks for your reply @Rubik Not sure when (or rather if) the clutch has ever been changed as the car looks and feels spotless so I believe the car has been driven very carefully. I do not feel any slip(s) and I'd say the clutch "catches" around half way from press to release... It feels kind of firm... Might get the brakes fixed together with the exhaust as said before, sounds a little "hollow" from the back right side... Thanks again for all your input

Quotes source post: 11940323

If it catches around half way it means it still has plenty of meat. BTW, ich lebte in Deutchland f�r zwei jahre. Viel Gl�ck mit dein Auto.

Make sure the serpentine belt is replaced at that mileage. It will get you stranded if it fails. Also a good idea to carry a set of jumper cables (a jump starter even better) and a portable air compressor for the tires on case of small puncture. Make sure your spare tire is good and inflated properly and you have all the tools needed to change a flat, including the wheel lock socket if you have one. Some engine oil and coolant will also be good to carry around. Don't worry about the clutch. It will tell you when it starts to go.

Sorry to hear about your radiators, Macster. The radiators are about $550 each from Sunset Porsche. Even the Behr ones are $400+. Are you gonna DIY?

Quotes source post: 11940334

I guess this is what they change during the bi-yearly big service (isn't this what is also called the timing belt)?

Quotes source post: 11940406

The serpentine belt should be changed IIRC every 60K miles, but check the owners manual or better yet check with the local dealer and get a printout of the revised (if any) service schedules for your car. Sometimes Porsche modifies the initial service schedules. The dealer, the techs and parts department should be able to call up the latest revision. The serpentine belt is critical to the proper operation of the engine -- it drives the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor -- but it does not turn the camshafts.

Quotes source post: 11934567

If your road trip takes you through the Rhein region, stop by. I'm in Gelsenkirchen (straight up the A5/A3 from you) directly beside the Schloss Berge . Good luck with your car and safe travels.

Sounds like a plan @Mark I... I'll get in touch should we drive up North this summer and meet up for coffee (perfect pit stop)...

In my experience most radiator damage with these cars is caused by hitting (or even just tapping) concrete slabs in parking lots. Be careful out there.