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YOUR RESEARCHK&N Filter oil spray?
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Clean mass air flow sensor
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I cleaned the MAF with CRC and the fuel trims returned to ideal..
Leading evidence: 'Clean mass air flow sensor' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean every 3-6k' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I actually had a car dynoed with a brand new filter from K&N and replaced the filter with a "dirty" one...(about 20,000 miles worth).
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I run the stock panel filter, and have made 480 HP with it.
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I inherited a K&N filter and have to clean it this weekend. I read here over oiling it may cause MAF sensor failure but aside from replacing it with EVO filter there was no way around the issue. For the people who is still using K&N filter, can you help me out?
What is everyone's take and method on cleaning and respraying oil? I want to make sure it has enough oil at the end to do its job but not soaking the filter and destroying the MAF sensor.
TIA.
Chao
First question is "does it need to be reoiled?"
K&N states 30 - 50K between cleaning.
http://www.knfilters.com/faq.htm#20
Inspect it, but I'm guessing that you've not done that kind of milage and an oiling will just expose you to risk when you don't need it.
You need to re-oil it everytime you clean it. I normally clean the K&N filters on all my vehicles when I change the oil every 3000 miles. For the 996 and my SC, I clean and re-oil them every 3000 miles. If I wait and let the filter get more dirty, I can notice a loss in performance. I have cleaned and re-oiled the filter on my 996 3 times and never had a problem.
Have you ever seen a K&N filter that wasn't cleaned in 15K miles? Look at one at 6K. It is so clogged with dirt and debris you actaully get a significant loss in performance. You don't notice the loss as it happens slowly over time, but as soon as you clean and oil the filter the car all of a sudden wakes up and feels a lot stronger. I have the filters and systems on my cars to improve performance and I'll continue to follow my normal maintenance to keep it.
Actually this is not accurate at all. I actually had a car dynoed with a brand new filter from K&N and replaced the filter with a "dirty" one...(about 20,000 miles worth). Even though the "dirty" pull was done after the car was already warm, the car actually made 0.9 more hp to be exact...This was done on an 01 S2000 by the way...
OK. For the sake of having an educated discussion, I am attaching my uncleaned filter and a picture from the K&N website. Pls comment as to if I should clean it.
Thanks Tailwag - 02 Carrera was being a little obsessive in his cleaning. It was good to have data to show that it was unnecessary.
It made no sense to have K&N recommending cleaning every 30-50K miles and having a user insist in cleaning every 3-6K. That sort of deviation from manufacturers recommendations would classify as defective product.
I know we're all a little obsessive about our cars, but sometimes you can really go a little too far.
Your filter needs cleaning. I have been doing this for years and just don't over apply the oil. The instructions say to cover the entire filter but remember that the oil will migrate over the entire filter as it sits for a while. So start with covering about 70% of the filter area and then I let mine sit over night to see if it really does need any more. Follow up as needed then and you are ready to go. Never had a MAF problem with this technique.
Here's an observation. I previously had a k and N intake with cone filter on my 99, and after about 4k miles (when the MAF sensor went), the cone filter was totally dirty. I replaced this setup with a plain old vanilla stock intake and k and n panel filter. I pulled it to clean it after the same amount of miles and the flat panel was to my surprise relatively clean and pink, whereas my cone filter after the same amount of time looked a lot like the pic above. My point is that It seems the cone filters that are exposed more to the elements (such as with aftermarket intakes) seem to get a lot dirtier quicker.
same here... the panel filter is the way to go... and when you clean it and re-oil it make sure you only spray the UNDERSIDE.... let it sit for 40 min and see what spots you have missed and re-spray the non-pink spots... then stand upright with newspaper underneath and let all the excess oil drip off *overnight*... then wipe off excell oil around rubber perimeter and you are good to go... this way you won't get oil on your MAF.
It depends if you are looking for the best performance or not. A true CAI is the best way to go for HP. I agree with the asessment that conical-type filters definitely get dirty quicker. Since they flow more air, they are going to naturally attract more debris.
The propper cleaning technique is to first use the K&N cleaner. Always spray in the inlet side (outer surface) of the filter only. Completely saturate the surface. Let it soak in for 5 min. Wash with warm (not hot) water from the inside flowing through the outside. Keep washing until the water that goes through the filter is clear. Pick out any left over debris on the surface and let it dry for 10 minutes. Spray an even coat of oil only on the inlet side (outer) surface. Wait 5 minutes and respray any areas that are still white. Wait another 5 minutes, wipe off the excess oil and install. I have used this procedure on K&N filters for at least 10 years and never a problem.
Clean the KN, however I would not re-oil, If you oil it too much it can mess with you mass air and in turn blows a CEL.I have ran KN on my Porsches for over years now, with no oil and no codes, Just my 2 cents.
I do and did. I ran it without oil for a while and blew out the MAF. I have been replacing MAFs every 30K miles with this setup. Then again, I don't bother to clean MAFs when I get PSM and ABS lighting up on the dash.
I ran into a guy with a '99 the other day.
He was having such problems with his MAF going that his indy told him "just don't drive it over 5000 rpm."
Is there an aftermarket MAF that's not so sensitive to an oiled filter or CAI?
(Any of our sponsors listening, this is such a common problem for VW/Audis too.)
Evo's newer filters are dry, no oil and I have a dry flter on my K/n intake. The evo intake did not fit so well in my 2000 cab, so I changed to the k/n and put a dry filter on it with a filter sock made by injen. No issues with it so far.
I clean K&Ns with water soluable degreaser and a water rinse, twice. Air dry for an hour or longer. Spray with a thin coat of ATF, let it soak in and wick. Then try to blot out any excess oil or even swing it around a few times covered in paper towels. Sound extreme but it has worked well.
Most important, oily filters trap the dirt, a dirt layer keeps more dirt from entering the filter. Without oil dirt will get thru and the filter is ineffective, too much oil will damage maf. Oiling a wet filter does not work well. GL
go get em Cory!!
wait, that was 3 years ago.....
go FIND em Cory
fwiw - Chao has it right
"I do and did. I ran it without oil for a while and blew out the MAF. I have been replacing MAFs every 30K miles with this setup. Then again, I don't bother to clean MAFs when I get PSM and ABS lighting up on the dash. "
its fine to run these... just know the cost !
This is the correct answer. If you think the factory filter and airbox are holding you back, you�d be mistaken in almost every case.
Most aftermarket stuff is designed to separate you from your money and little else.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/900x900/olive_oil_188692cc102e0f141bca0da1d5794cf9eef51c77.jpeg
Here is a sound clip from a Custom short Ram intake I designed to use with the 991 sound enhancer for sound purpose only. It does use a Dual Cone K&N filter but a paper dry filter could be used as well.
I discarded the factory air box only to make room for the sound enhancer, there were not enough room for both.
The inlet air to the engine as measured at the MAF is only 1.5 degrees warmer than the ambient air temp at anything above 30mph.
The K&N filter has been on for about 75k miles and hasn't been cleaned or re-oiled.( encase you didn't know, the "dirtier" an air filter gets, the better it "filters", but if the total CFM gets less than what the engine needs it will start to lose top end power) The only problem with the MAF sensor during that time was last year I noticed the fuel trims getting a little away from ideal, but not setting a fault code. I cleaned the MAF with CRC and the fuel trims returned to ideal..
I built about a dozen of these for friends and acquaintances but got a lot of hate from some for "intake sound enhancement" ( as if it were different to exhaust sound enhancement). I actually prefer the intake sound enhancement over the exhaust sound enhancements. The car pretty much keeps the outside noise quite, while the inside noise screams only at full throttle and high RPMS.
Here is a pic of one installed on a 997S
