Jack points, and oil change questions

I am still somewhat confused as to good/best jack points on my '99 996 C2 Coupe. I searched here, and read Pelican's tech article, and read both 101 Projects and the bible, and two things are in my way of a clear understanding: 1) some/many of the photos are of slightly older (993s?); 2) mine has plastic splash guards (or whatever they're called) covering much of the underside. The plastic obscures what's there structurally, or not. If there are any better resources, diagrams, photos out there for 996 C2 coupe jack points, I'm all ears. I'll probably photograph the points I used, or think could be used, and post here for you all to cringe. My understanding of structural steel is fairly good, so I'm comfortable going seat-of-the-coveralls, but would love to know more from seasoned owners. Having done this once now (combo of floor jack and spare tire jack), I can see now how a second floor jack and a pair of lift bars would make the time-to-creeper much faster. In any case, yesterday was watershed day for this 996 noob: jacked it up, now firmly and safely on a forest of jack stands, and changed my oil for the first time. Whoop! No one died, and no driveway spills, and my getting a $450 quote from local Porsche dealer helped justify the $$ spent on 3 ton floor jack, stands, OBD reader, torque wrench, etc. One more not-by-dealer oil change and I'm in the black. Back me on that if my wife calls, please. Regarding the old oil now sitting in the new oil containers, about to go to recycling, and my desire to run a Blackstone analysis: does it matter whether the sample is first out of the sump, last out of the recycling containers, shaken or stirred? If it needs to be first out of the sump, too late for that. If a minute on the human paint shaker is good enough, I'll send it in. Welcome any expert opinions on this. Thanks, Kelly

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The best samples come from the sump after 5 sec drain from what I recall. Do you have a UOA kit yet? They come with sample bottle and instructions from SpeedDiagnostix. Not sure how Blackstone works. Jake Raby (Flat6Inovations) has a great video series that all 996 owners need to watch! http://flat6innovations.com/ The four main jack point are obvious. The rear crossbar is a save point as well.

As Bill has said, Blackstone also recommend the sample be drawn from halfway through the drain, although if you take is straight from the drain it shouldn't be too different (hot or cold does make a difference though, and Blackstone asks to identify if its a cold sample). If you already put it into the empty containers that you refilled with, it "might" be slightly contaminated with new oil, but may not be an issue for trending over a period of multiple changes. Blackstone also provides free sample kits, with shipping container, just ask for them. For a simple oil change, I'd suggest (and I'm not a profession, nor do I play one on TV), lifting from the rear jackpoint in front of the rear wheel (little square with an oblong hole in it), place a jackstand under the front jackpoint (again, little square, just behind the front tire), then the second at the big alloy cross member at the rear, then move to other side. Take it in small steps side to side to minimize the rocking, and chances of jackstand slipping. I hated jacking mine, thus ended up buying QuickJacks (and couldn't be happier).

Thank you both for fast replies. @808bill, yes, the four standard jack points are quite obvious, and well documented. I should have been more clear in my initial post: are there good safe starting points from front, back, and/or sides -- other than the standard four points -- where floor jack (not super long or super low profile) can start, and quickly get car up on jack stands on the four standard points? Attached is one of the images that I didn't find all that helpful, partly because it was posted without much explanation what the various points were/meant. But maybe I'm just slow... I have already requested the sample kit from Blackstone. Looking forward to whatever imperfect analysis they can provide from my imperfect sample methodology. I will also try Jake's shop on the next UOA. Kelly

To do all maintenance we need 22 1/2 to 25" lift, and 2 subframe points near front wheels and cross member under engine looks like might slip off, so spent about $300 for liftbars.com which gives good connection jack to vehicle and jack stands support at factory jack points. We had a post showing our 996 easily at 22 1/2".

Yes, I think lift bars and a new Conti bluetooth-enabled radio are on this month's to do list. Wish I had xray vision into the bores, from my comfy chair, but that ain't gonna happen...

Before I had my 2 post lift, I was able to complete oil and filter changes without jacking up the vehicle. I throw it on the lift anyways to inspect other things while the oil drains now. I used a low profile oil drain pan from Harley Davidson. Very nice quality, plus it stores the oil without any leaks so you can use it as container to drop off oil at a recycling center. https://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...-oil-drain-pan It's worth noting I was able to do this with my lowered 911 on PSS10's. You'll still want lift bars for other maintenance items, but this will save you a bunch of time if you're only doing oil changes.

Thanks. Yes, makes sense I can change oil next time and beyond with little/no lifting. Since yesterday was my first time underneath, I wanted decent clearance all around. Now that I've been there, done that, it will be more efficient going forward.

Make your own ramp set up out of scrap 2 x lumber

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Don't worry about the bores. Too much reading will scare you! Trust me on this...I'm the worlds biggest worrier. Your car has probably spent most (if not all ) of it's life in warm weather. Chances of any significant bore scoring is very low. If your car doesn't make ticking sounds I wouldn't worry about it! Things I would worry about at this point: -Change oil ..which you did (are you using DT40?) -Age of your tires. Anything older than 7 years change them. And, for Gawd's sake do not buy cheap tires. If I see another Porsche with some cheap crappy tire on it I'm going to hurt someone! -Check your AOS. If you don't have a manometer just do the oil cap removal test -If coolant is original think about changing it. DO check the coolant tank for cracks and check coolant cap rev number -Check water pump for leaks. If original you should start thinking about changing it. Not really that hard to do. But, if not leaking that can be done later -use your new reader and check cam deviation angles. If they are within limits and steady don't worry about the IMSB for now -check your brake pads and maybe change your brake fluid...especially if it's very dark -Pull your front bumper and clean your radiators of debris Take your car for a long drive and get reacquainted. Your car will love you for it and you may actually fall in love with it again. If you don't...sell it to me

@dak911 , I think some 2x10's are going to be recycled into ramps. If you have any favorite DIY sites/plans/pics, please share. I am curious about a sequential stacking system that would be used on all four wheels simultaneously, back and forth a few times, stacking Jenga style. Floor jack and 8 jack stands standing by. @billh1963 thanks for the list. Appreciate the perspective of those much more experienced in 996 than me. No water leaks that I can see yet, but pump replacement is on the preventive maintenance list. Is it sacrilege to top up coolant with water? Radiator clean-out is now on the list, though running temps look very reasonable. Tires good for now. Mostly rode P-Zero's thus far, tho a pair of Conti's currently on the front. Oil has recently been M1 0-40. Open to trying DT40 on next change. Interested in seeing what comes from UOA on my last oil, now awaiting recycling. (Blackstone vials arriving today). AOS: how much is a manometer? Other uses if I spring for one? Much to learn on AOS front. Brake pads are good for now. Fluid change on the PM list. Thanks for suggestion on cam deviation angles. That's a new topic to me. I am quite interested in any inexpensive methods of trying to gauge engine internal state. Might record video/audio of cold startup from the rear, and see what the experts think. Running oil pressure, audio, oil consumption, etc., all seem to be reasonable clues. Magnetic drain plug arriving from Pelican today. That will go in on next oil change. Dropping the oil pan doesn't seem too daunting, so maybe on next oil change in 6 months. I have a USB snake cam, for other purposes. Definitely smaller diameter than a spark plug. Might be a fun project if oil pan is down to pull spark plugs and snoop around above and below pistons, alternating BDC and TDC per cylinder. Ordered this OBD dongle OBD dongle from Amazon. $11 and arriving tomorrow, and with 1,600+ positive ratings, I was okay gambling the $11. Depending on what I find in Android apps store (Torque, et al) maybe the $180 reader bought last week gets returned! Kelly

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Use distilled water to top off the coolant tank!!!!! Not tap water Look for forums posts on how to check AOS. I have a manometer...around $150-$200 for one. I wouldn't buy one unless you are a tool junkie

Since I started this thread about jack points, here are some photos from underneath my '99 996 C2 Coupe. If anyone has any specific do's or dont's on where it's safe to place floor jack, particularly when first getting started, I'm all ears. I circled in red the points that would be convenient, if safe. I am well aware of the four standard jack points, BTW. Kelly View from the front Front right View from the back Back right

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looked at those one just convinced that having a HD logo somehow, somewhere it'd have to leak

Ratcheting jack stands can kill you. I have some that have a pin you insert through the "teeth"; however, they are backups to my Esco jack stands. There is a well known post of a guy who crushed his head/face (he survived) when he accidentally kicked the lever on his ratcheting jack stand while under the car and the car dropped. There are many more of people being killed. Having backup jackstands is a great idea (I do...along with having my floor jacks under there as well). However, since you can get these better jackstands for $110/pair off amazon and other vendors it doesn't make sense to use ratcheting stands for anything other than a backup.

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I bought this unit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2Y9VY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2Y9VY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details Seems fine for the job. Also got thumbs up from the propane delivery guy when I showed it to him. He said that's the same unit a lot of the guys use. Told him I was going to use it to check manifold pressure on my recently installed furnace.

@billh1963 Thanks for the reminder on that. I am going to hard-wired the ratchet handle down on these. @Scott at Team Harco I appreciate the link to the Manometer. Looks like a good cheap hit for my tool addiction.

Jack from rear 'standard jack point. Car is stiff enough to easily lift entire side. Slip a *flat top* Esco stand under the front standard jack point, and another under the rear suspension pivot. Repeat on other side. Done. Or get a quickjack, they are awesome!

Thanks all. Can anyone opine on whether any of the areas circled in red on my photos in post #13 earlier today are bad places to jack from?

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Exactly. Before I bought my Quickjack I jacked up my car the same way. But, now I have the Quickjack and love it. Great for changing tires, brake work, oil changes, etc.

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Just got the Quick jack for Christmas .... So far I love it ..The thing is brilliant ...I can see it paying for itself over the next year ...besides it inspires me to do more work now myself .

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Oooh, I can see my rationale building. Birthday coming up in a few months. Happy bday to me, perhaps.

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Yes...you can catch them on sale for around $1K. They are easy to move around and very stable. I still use a jackstand under each end because I am a chickensh!t. But, I feel much safer under them than just using jackstands.

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I'd have to dig into the million page manual, but that picture you posted looks more like a body alignment diagram. Ignore it as far as lifting points. Stick with what has been suggested, not sure why you would need any additional points.

Seems obvious, but don't forget air filter (simple), spark plug and perhaps coils (not so much)

There is a place called CPO OUTLETS that has the ESCO 3 ton jack stands #10498 on sale with free shipping on all orders over $100, using their PROMO CODE OF: HELLO2020 that saves you $20.20. I just bought 2 for $98.00 total out-the-door including tax. These are normally $54.95 each + tax and s&h at CPO OUTLETS. I tried to place an additional order later on today for 2 more jack stands, thinking I could save another $20.20 but I wasn't able to use the HELLO2020 promo code again. Too bad, huh? I don't know if it is a one-time-use promo code, a once-per-household or once-per-email address or what...I never saw anything written about any restrictions. So I will try to purchase 2 more jack stands tomorrow and see what happens. Anyway a $20.20 savings on 2 ESCO jackstands is still a pretty good savings IMO, since I've never seen them advertised anywhere cheaper than $54.95.