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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHmmm, I guess I need some guidance
Leading reported evidence
Replace 5,000 miles/2 years ago
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
IMS LN Dual Row bearing replaced 5,000 miles/2 years ago.
Leading evidence: 'Replace 5,000 miles/2 years ago' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'only performance one i'll ever be able' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check "engine roughness"' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
My first Porsche and probably the only performance one I'll ever be able to afford.
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Suggestion
You will want to check "engine roughness" on all cylinders.
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Suggestion
UOA and monthly Durametric check will help with serenity and sanity.
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Suggestion
PM is a good thing - but dropping $5K on preventive maintenance is no guarantee that some other M96 component or some other system like the transmission won't blow up on the way home from the shop...and it won't help prevent some moron in an Escalade from running over your car two weeks later.
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20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T124918Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hey Guys,
With all the fun stuff flying around our "engines", I find myself wondering "Should I...�"
I have a 99 996 with 104,000 miles. Runs perfect. IMS LN Dual Row bearing replaced 5,000 miles/2 years ago.
As of lately, I keep wondering if I should have a shop do the following as long term thinking or ? (this is not something I would do myself-not an option)
1. Replace chain guides (and chains, etc. while in there)
2. AOS replacement (while the engine is out is what I figure)
3. Incidental hoses as needed
The first item seems to be the culprit of disaster from what I am reading lately (aside from bore scoring) and I would like to plan on having this car for another 20 years if possible. I guess I don't know how long these guides should last?? I love my car. My first Porsche and probably the only performance one I'll ever be able to afford. It runs perfect, everything is in great working order.
I have a great Indy that will do the work so there's no problem there.
I guess I'm looking for guidance. I don't have $12K+ to build a new engine but...�...
I don't have $$$ to throw at it, but I do find myself with a few extra pesos that I could swing this (I'm guesstimating under $3k for repairs). Santa was good to me this year
I usually buy 996s with blown engines but if I ever buy a running one, I will literally not spend a dime on it. Just get a AAA membership and drive it like any other of my cars.
While doing that, save the money you were going to spend on maintenance for a future rebuild or a used engine replacement.
These engines have too many problems. Not worth it trying to fix a few of them here and there.
Definitely do the AOS proactively as they tend to go out at about 100,000 miles. Mine did...and what a MESS, with oil all over everywhere!!! And they can't clean it all off very well either...you have to just burn it off...takes a few days to about a week!
I would start with a good session with a Durametric. Find out what the cam deviation numbers are. That will help you determine if it's time to have at the chain guides.
You will want to check "engine roughness" on all cylinders. This can point to injector issues (among other things) if there is significant difference from one to the next. Check fuel adaption ranges as well (FRA, RKAT).
If you do decide to drop the engine, here is a partial list of what I would consider (especially since almost all of these are on my list):
AOS
RMS
Injectors
Coils/ plugs (easier with the engine out)
Chains and guides if you want more peace of mind (assuming deviation numbers were still good)
Magnetic drain plug
Oil/ filter
Fuel filter
Waterpump
Thermostat (160 deg)
Coolant tank?
Any coolant hoses that look questionable (you have this)
Coolant flush/ fill
What about the serpentine belt, pulleys and tensioner?
Alternator?
Y-cable at starter?
Engine mounts?
etc.
Hey Nick, Happy New Year!
Make sure you get an oil sample first, then I'd follow Scotts recommendations above. Injectors is a good idea for all of us beyond 100K miles.
$5K is more reasonable if you're not doing any of the work.
Thanks Bill and I think that is sound advice to take with Scott's and the others (thanks all) and then play from there. I can swing the $ if need be. A couple of thousand extra to knock it all would be worth a lot of "piece of mind". I hear everyone's tales when something goes wrong (like your AOS Bill, lol) and know that it is only a matter of time before it happens to me. Maybe I can prevent those headaches, but knowing oil/engine will be a priority first.
Be good All!
Nick
Nick - By �perfect� do you mean cam deviations less than +/- 4, FRA/RKAT normal and a good baseline UOA? Manometer for AOS reads less than 7�, but better is 5�, of H2O? Also, as Imo000 says, pads and guides, AOS and injectors will run you approx 30 hrs book rate and $1,000 US for parts you source.
If everything checks out, drive and enjoy. UOA and monthly Durametric check will help with serenity and sanity. Pretty car!
And strip you them to part out on here, but will you send the parts I paid for please? Or respond to my emails asking the same?
Sorry for the hijack OP but this guy took my money for a pair of 996 tail lights and has been ducking me.
The "while you're in there" practice can get expensive, especially if you're undertaking that endeavor without actually knowing if anything is actually broken/breaking.
PM is a good thing - but dropping $5K on preventive maintenance is no guarantee that some other M96 component or some other system like the transmission won't blow up on the way home from the shop...and it won't help prevent some moron in an Escalade from running over your car two weeks later.
If you have a huge pile of money sitting around, then go for it. The original post suggests a somewhat smaller pile of cash. My preference would be to address anything that you KNOW is problematic and hang onto the rest of that nest egg to address things that need repair in the future. Clutches blow up, second gears get stripped, Litronics get broken...I don't want to spend my entire 996 just-in-case fund on PM only to have something bad happen immediately thereafter. No amount of PM will guarantee that the car won't get damaged/destroyed through no fault of my own, and a roller with new chain guides, new chains, and new injectors isn't worth any more than a roller with the original parts.
Every person's tolerance for risk is different, and each of us has a different perspective on how to mitigate it. My personal preference is to find a happy medium between Prelude Guy and The Artist Formerly Known as KrazyK, treating ailments that actually exist while resisting the urge to burn money that could be better utilized elsewhere.
I got quoted about $8k for what you are doing. That includes new coolant tank, coils and aos as well.
30 hours of labour to split the engine.
Much cheaper if you don't care about the IMS chain guide.
I will run mine until it explodes and then LS swap or build a short block.
If I would have the money I would spend $24k on a FSI track engine.
To OP. Note that new Bosch injectors for an MK-I car are $250 each, so you're looking at $1500 just for the parts. An OEM coolant tank for your '99 will run about $400-$600. I think you're grossly underestimating what your full bill of items will be.
