Valve Lift control solenoid

Hi to all, to make a very long story short I will try to cut to the chase. I own a 2003 C4S it has had extensive engine and wiring work done to it. The car has had drive-ability issues and now cranks, but does not start. I am trying to work through all that only to discover something that did not look right to me while I was cleaning up grounds under the engine. I have added pictures of what I found, I believe these are the Valve Lift Control Solenoids. They are supposed to have "hold down brackets" and neither the left or right bank has them. As seen in the pictures the forward solenoids have the brackets. Solenoid sticking out quit far, touching the exhaust bracket. How I found them. Also the solenoids currently move in and out quit easily. My question is could this have caused any internal damage. I don't fully understand what these solenoids control or how they do it. I have ordered two brackets to replace the missing ones, but am worried about any damage this may have caused. Thanks.

Is this like some Indiana Jones movie? You found the mystery but our not quite sure of how it got there and what it does? What bracket? The solenoids move in and out? What solenoids? I am confused about what you are talking about.....

So, the solenoids are circled in yellow. The one on the left looks like it has the "hold down bracket"... The one on the right, not - and it looks like it is popping out... I'm not sure of the significance of this, or whether it's normal or not. I would think not, but I have a 5 chain engine which has vario-cam (different solenoids/system). The upshot is that it shouldn't be difficult to add that bracket. No idea whether any damage was done by not having it on there, but I can surmise that you weren't getting any lift on the cylinders it's connected to... Good Luck

Do you have spark? Does the engine fire up if you spray a bit or starter fluid? Found a picture on Rennlist that shows that the solenoid IS missing a bracket. It shouldn't be as flush at the one that has it but pushed in about a 1/3 more than it is now. You can see the mark where the solenoid used to sit in the valve cover.

I am sorry I did not fully explain what was happening, Like dporto said the one on the right is the one in question and without it's bracket it moves around freely. I also found the picture of both of them with brackets and this made me wonder if any internal damage could be done if the solenoid was able to be so far out of place, ie no bracket holding it down. Also how did this effect engine performance. Again sorry for the confusion. I am working on the "no start" issue at the same time. last night checking relays and looking at wiring for any damage. I will spray starting fluid into the intake tonight and see what happens. When I crank it to try and start it I can smell fuel out of the exhaust, but lets see what the starting fluid gets me. Thanks again.

Okay, those are the variocam actuators. Maybe this thread with pictures will help you out https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...these-two.html

Here is another thread from RennTech with pictures. I cannot find a part number for the bracket. https://www.renntech.org/topic/53302...tuator-bank-2/

And another on the brackets https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-brackets.html

Thanks DBJoe996, I also found pictures of the brackets and finally part numbers. The front ones are $6.09 the ones I need are $29.31. I found 2 on Ebay for $14 a piece, I ordered those. But I still wonder if any damage has happened due to the missing brackets. The car was driven about 300 miles I assume like that? Not by me,Ugh.

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I know when the brackets crack, and they do, it will throw codes. In your case, where the solenoid is clearly popped out, that would cause significant valve lift issues. Now whether it’s catastrophic, I don’t know, but your valve lift is clearly out of whack. I would pull the solenoid and have a look, then replace the bracket and see if she fires up.

I don't think it will cause any valve lift problems that would stop the engine. All it would do is stay in one mode and never transition into the other mode when the solenoid is active. It would throw a code and the engine would not feel as powerful but that should be it.

I will not get the brackets till next week, so we will see what that might change. I did try the starting fluid trick (thanks Imo000) and it did run for a few seconds. So at least it's not an ignition problem. Now on to the fuel system. When I activate the fuel pump with the Durametric it sounds like its running. Could it be a DME issue not activating the injectors or would other things not work also? Tomorrow I will go through the Bentley manual and test the fuel system, I have ordered a fuel pressure gauge with adapters, hope it helps.

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I had this same exact scenario when I put my engine back together 2 months ago. Get your hands on a Noid light and check if the injectors are getting a signal. Easiest injector to get to is the driver side rear most one. If it doesn't get a signal then the problem very well be a failed/failing crank position sensor. When the engine is turning over by the starter, is the tach needle moving? By the way, this doesn't mean you have the same problem as I had but worth looking at the sensor. What worked for me was that while the engine was cranking over I slowly and gently moved the crank position sensor wire around by hand and all of a sudden the engine fired up. Ran until I let the wire go. The wires inside the main crank position wire were cracked and were shorting out.

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In Jake Raby's FOCUS ON: M9X ENGINE ASSEMBLY, he goes over the Varicam Plus Solenoids and all the components involved as well as proper installation. This is covered in Stage 17 and can be purchased separately on Amazon Prime Direct or you can purchase the complete series from the Knowledge Gruppe. This is not just for people that are rebuilding these engines, it's for others too that want an in-depth learning experience with Porsche M96/M97 engines. Here are the links: Amazon Amazon https://www.theknowledgegruppe.com/

What work was done to the engine leading up to this?

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There are corrugated plastic hoses that connect the pump to the fitting on the tank, and they are known to split. If you replace them with fuel hose get the hose that is rated for immersion in fuel. GATES 27093 SUBMERSIBLE FUEL LINE HOSE is the recommended stuff for the Turbos; we have three in-tank fuel pumps and I think C4/C4S also have three in tank fuel pumps.

Thank you for all the suggestions and I will try all of that in the coming days and keep you posted.

Since starter fluid showed there is spark you can now use propane to see if the engine will properly run. That would snow if the cams are on the proper side of the engine. Starter fluid is too violent to run and engine but propane will be fine. Use a small torch with a nozzle that you would use for plumbing. Feed the gas through the throttle body (remove the elbow and the MAF)

Just a quick update, I got the car started. I removed the fuel level sender, it's easy on a C4S, and found one of the snap-in house fittings had fallen off inside the tank. The fuel pump was changed not to long ago and the I guess they didn't quit get it snapped into place. So that's one issue down, of coarse in doing this after I reassembled I had a pretty good fuel leak on top of the sender. Turns out one of the fuel fittings on top of the sender the plastic has cracked. Ugh. So now I have to order a new fuel sender, sealing ring and nut. The corrugated hoses look good inside the tank. I am hope once I get the tank taken care of and the brackets on the valve lift solenoids on that I will be closer getting it done. Wish me luck. Thanks to all for the help.

You are on the right track brother!