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YOUR RESEARCHCurrently recommended flange sealant
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Check ebay and found one even cheaper
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Checked eBay and found one even cheaper, but made an offer.
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I wish I had tried that last year when I checked my oil pan!
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I test fitted an old tube in a standard caulk gun:
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Last time I did mine I used the drei bond 1209 (with the key).
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I use Drei-bond for most machined engine surface bonding, excepting the oil sump plate.It seals easily with just about any Permatex sealant.
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I just finished Jake's "Focus on: M9X Engine Assembly" and he covers up specialty tool names and product brand names.
I understand that his recommendations on sealant has changed, so he doesn't want to recommend something that might change often.
But the sealant he used, with the church key, sure looked easier to apply than Loctite 5900! (Ouch it hurts to push out by hand!)
It appeared to be Drei Bond.
Can anyone confirm that it is Drei Bond 1209?
I assume that whatever he used last fall should work fine for me now, and if I could get away from using Loctite 5900 that would be great!
Unless someone can point out a better method of applying Loctite 5900 than by hand.
Not sure where I saw it on here, but someone posted that the 5900 tube fits in a standard caulk gun. I just checked mine, and while it's precarious side to side (too small), I think once pressure is on the plunger, it should be stable.
I wish I had tried that last year when I checked my oil pan! Doing that by hand was a PIA.
Yeah, it will fit, but I don’t think you can properly control it.
I was very shaky putting Loctite 5900 on my sump plate last time by hand.
I'd probably be just as shaky with the standard caulk gun.
The sealant Jakes was using look much easier to control.
I need both hands near the nozzle, and for the sealant to flow semi-easily in order to do a good job.
My hands shake enough as it is these days.
I test fitted an old tube in a standard caulk gun:
You're probably right, it's entirely possible that it is too unstable like that. Again, I haven't tried it, just relaying what I had seen in case you hadn't. I look forward to seeing what others have found, or the current recommended sealant.
Here's a photo I took during hands-on M96/M97 rebuild class from 2018.
Loctite 1209.
Not sure if this is the preferred sealant, two years later. I used this for my rebuild. Contents harden inside tube, even when un-opened. Be sure to ask a supplier for a long expiration date.
I researched this a while ago and ended up with both Drei Bond 1209 and Loctite 5900. I haven't used either yet so I can't say if one's easier to apply than the other. The Drei Bond did come with a tube winder thingie that might help though.
You can buy syringe type dispensing guns but I think it would be tough to justify the cost for something used so infrequently.
Perhaps the syringe type would work better.
But watching Jake use, what appeared to be Drei Bond with the church/winder, it sure looked effortless.
The mostly used tube fit in the palm of his hand.
I already have some Loctite 5900, but I might get some Drei Bond and test them side by side to see which I prefer.
That's a great idea. Be sure to report back.
For what it's worth, I bought a full size caulk tube of 5900. It was $30, at the time. It took a little while to get here as it came from Turkey.
It takes a fair amount of force to get it to extrude out the tip, but with enough patience you can persevere. Don't use a cheap caulking gun.
Use an anaerobic flange sealant as it only hardens under compression and isn't activated by the moisture in the air like silicon based sealants do. Whatever gets squeezed out gets washed away with the oil inside the engine. Unlike silicone, this will not harden and get stuck in the oil pickup screen.
Thanks for posting that picture.
The best price I could find last time I looked was well over $100.
These have an MSRP of $83.
I found one on sale for $73.
Checked eBay and found one even cheaper, but made an offer.
They accepted my $35 offer.
So I'll have this for Loctite 5900.
I'm also going to get the Drei Bond to compare.
When I was hunting for sealant a couple of years ago, the only thing I could find locally was 5900, but it was in a aerosol type tube....sort of like a whipped cream dispenser. Worked pretty slick.
Looking forward to see how it works out.
I probably should have clarified that I have no personal experience with that particular gun. The version I used was double barreled for two part epoxy but works on the same principle.
Thank you Tex, I appreciate you posting this. I own
Jake's "Focus on: M9X Engine Assembly"
and was bummed (with understanding) that the litigious nature of our system dictates that practical, empirical knowledge is too risky to share for professionals.
I was contacted by the seller.
He only had a 5mm syringe gun.
So the purchase is being refunded.
I�m bummed, but at least he didn�t just send it to me.
Tex, Was there a specific flange surface that you are referring to? In the video, Jake mentions using RTV sealant which is drei bond(I remember this specifically mentioned for the case halves, don't remember for other). That's my plan anyway.
Where would Curil-T be an appropriate sealant? Looking at the specs it would seem to be an alternative to Loctite 5900 or Drei Bond "1209".
But now I'm confused because this video at (15:25)
You Tube
posted today, uses Curil-t on the IMSB center nut where I would have used Loctite Blue (242), can anybody clarify this?
Uh... That says Drei Bond 1209 on it very clearly...
Last time I did mine I used the drei bond 1209 (with the key). It's kind of a waste because I used so little and I'm sure it won't be good next time I need it. They should make a "hobbyist" size...
I am in the process of installing the FVD Brombacher oil pan. I was originally going to use Honda Bond, which I've used on sportbike oil pans with no issues.
Amazon
Amazon
However, the tube I have (which is probably 15 years old) says that it's only good up to 300F. For a 911 that's being tracked, I am worried that temp might be exceeded, so I didn't use the Honda Bond.
I noticed that there is a high-temp version of Honda Bond that's good up to 600F. Looks promising.. and they hopefully have it in stock at the Honda bike dealer down the street.
Amazon
Amazon
It's either that or some Permatex black, which is good up to 500F, if I can find it at a local auto parts store.
Amazon
Amazon
Between the two, is there any reason I shouldn't pick the Honda Bond over the Permatex?
Why all the debate about this? I feel like there should be plenty of products that would do well as oil pan sealants. (Tell me why I'm wrong to assume that.)
"
Why all the debate about this? I feel like there should be plenty of products that would do well as oil pan sealants. (Tell me why I'm wrong to assume that.)"
Seems like much to do about nothing. If there's a clear recommendation and that product is available, then fine - use it! If it's not available (or has some crazy Porsche tax price tag), then any product with similar spec's should/will work...
The oi pan isn't going to get anywhere near 300F. Hondabond is good stuff, Honda engine don't leak.
I wouldn't use any Permatex sealant under any conditions. I have had too many cases of the sealant not curing properly. I do like their anti-seize paste though.
I have been using Reinzosil for oil pans on my VW engines for years and it works fabulously.
The engine coolant should never get that hot, but the oil might get close to 300F. If the oil gets that hot, then presumably the gasket material on the oil pan might get close to that temp too, right?
Fair enough, I'll stay away from the Permatex stuff. (I recall using it on the intake manifold on my Chevy LT1 350.. worked fine for that but, yeah, that's not an oil pan.)
The local Honda shop only has the regular (300F-rated) Honda Bond and I want to get this put back together tonight, so that's what I'll use. I guess if it leaks, I'll be taking it apart and doing it again!
If the oil gets to 300F you really have big problems. The highest oil temp I have ever seen is 278F, on my VW track car, after thrashing it for 30 minutes on the track in Palmer, MA on a 95+ degree day. I think you will be fine with the Hondabond.
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