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YOUR RESEARCHReplacing the water pump.
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Use 1/4"-3/8" adapter
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I used a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and used my 3/8 tq wrench.
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I used a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and used my 3/8 tq wrench.
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Use uview and still performing manual bleeding steps just
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I ended up using the UView and still performing manual bleeding steps just to feel good about it.
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Suggestion
I've never used sealant on the 986/996 water pump gasket, and I don't recall the Porsche workshop manual recommending any.
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I noticed on one set of instructions some sort of white gasket sealant is applied when installing the new waterpump and gasket but another set of instructions it's not mentioned.
Which is correct?
If you are using an OEM pump with the metal gasket DO NOT USE SEALANT!
The youtube video of some guy applying gobs of sealant "so the pump won't leak" makes me cringe.
He had enough sealant on the pump to seize it. Make sure all the contact surfaces are clean and don't bend the gasket and that's all you need.
So you did use the sealant?
If small chip from plastic impeller can block a waterpassage in the cyl.head. What could some siliconsealant do.....
DO NOT use sealant, just make sure that the surfaces are clean.
The Factory manual does not mention any sealant on the water pump gasket. Just "Position new seal and coolant pump simultaineously and fasten. tighten torque 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb.)" Group 1 engine 19-16.
Metal gaskets normally don't use sealant, and this is the case with the 996 water pump.
No, my instinct was to just use the gasket and waterpump. I haven't installed anything yet. Also, I knew I had different instructions bookmarked at work.
http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/
Just follow the factory manual. No sealant. I know it's not the best manual, but it doesn't say to NOT do lots of things. That doesn't mean you should.
I just changed my waterpump and thermostat (housing and thermostat) about three months ago. Both came with metal gaskets and I did not use gasket sealer on either....I have had it north of 105mph on several occations and I have sat in 95deg heat in traffice.....no hint of a leak from either. I did see a DIY either here or on pelican where a guy put a little sealer on to hold the gasket in place but I'm pretty sure the pump casting had an alignment pin or shoulder. It was never an issue. You can also use a couple of bolts to help align.
Heads up though, mine was retroffited with Tubi exhaust by the previous owner, purchased from the dealer. The DIY I saw worked really well except that I had to remove a couple of the tee fittings on the radiator/heater hose and I had to pull the small diameter metal tubing further away from the perimeter of oil pan to get the pump and t'stat housing out.
It does not specifically say
not
to use sealant, however when sealant is recommended, the workshop manual is very specific about which sealants to use. So I would take the absence of mention as a recommendation against sealant. Also, none of the 986/996 water pumps I've done have leaked afterward. The factory metal gasket is a good one.
reviving this as we don't need "another" water pump thread. Cant find a place to rent a 1/4 torque wrench for reassembly on my water pump. They are not that much so just going to buy one. I started thinking, for those of you who have done it, did you use a torque wrench or just go by feel as it is such a small value of 7 foot pounds. I remember doing the oil pan on my old 944 and it was 12 foot pounds if I remember correctly and that felt like nothing at all. Just barely over hand tight.
anyways, just currious
Iirc, i used the tq wrench. I used a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and used my 3/8 tq wrench. However, the one bolt you need the swivel socket for was impossible to get to straight on, so that one was as much feel as tq spec. Pretty easy job overall, but you need the 1/4" drive swivel socket to get in there with an extension on the 1 bolt. I had one with an integral 3/8 swivel, and it was too tight.
I highly recommend using a torque wrench. The recommended torque seems Soooooo not tight enough. Without a torque wrench it would be impossible for me to resist over-tightening. I did the water pump and thermostat on my 2000 Carrera last spring. No sealant, yes torque wrench. To date, no leaks!
Well my waterpump has been replaced. Wasn't too bad really. I did pick up a torque wrench and glad I did. Either though 7' pounds doesn't seem like much, it actually feels pretty tight when tightening.
Things I learned that may help the next guy.
1. Remove the lower idler pully. Makes it easier to get to and remove the one most pesky bolt. I found once this bolt was loose, if I stood with my back to the car I could reach town and unscrew it easily by hand.
2. With the pully out of the way, it was easy to remove the old pump and insert the new one from the top. No need to remove or disturbe the thermostat hose or the other lower coolant hose.
3. Either purchase or borrow a UView or equivilent for adding coolant back to the system. I ended up using the UView and still performing manual bleeding steps just to feel good about it. After the UView there was never a need to add any additional coolant.
I would say with the learning curve it took me 4-5 hours. If/when I do it again in another 40K I feel I could do it in less than three hours all in.
My car has 57K on it and I did not have water pump service history available so I decided to replace as I would get a random smell of coolant from time to time, and it finally started driping on occasion. The one removed was not the original as the old gasket was cut so this is # 3 in my car. Shaft play was negligable but there was a hint of bearing grind when spinning. Well at least I can sleep better at night.
thanks for all that assisted either via forum feedback, PM's, or tools leant.
Brian
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