Help getting water pump out and carrier won't move

Guys, I'm having a hell of a time getting my carrier to move away from the engine. I've followed the directions in this DIY: http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/ I have the car off the ground on jackstands. Removed everything. Also drained the coolant, undone the thermostat and water pump hoses. I have loosened the 2 15mm nuts that attach to the carrier and have raised the engine with a piece of wood under the jack right under the engine pan but the carrier won't budge on the driver side bolt. The passenger side of the carrier moves freely away from the bolt. I raised the engine even higher and still the driver side won't move backwards. I even jacked up the engine to the point the rear jack point was off the jacks! What am I doing wrong? Should I take a hammer and try to bang out the carrier on drivers side toward the bumper? I'm afraid of stripping the bolt. The DIY indicated to put the jack under the "engine jack point" in front of the engine pan and slightly raise? The Pelican DIY indicates to just slightly raise the engine. I do remember last year after I replaced my engine mounts, the driver side tailpipe was hanging down a bit more than the passenger side but after awhile, it settled and everything is now even. Not sure if this has anything to do with it. I'm also struggling with the right lower 10mm water pump bolt. Can't get the thing out. Maybe with the carrier loosened it will come out easier? If I can't remove the carrier forward, can I still get the water pump out if I remove the thermostat and the hard coolant pipes? I'm replacing all the hoses and thermostat anyway. Any suggestions? Been struggling all afternoon with this damn thing.

On my 01 I didn't loosen the carrier. The 10mm was a pain. Used a short wrench and it took forever since there was no room to turn it. I removed the left side exhaust manifold to get the pump out. It's been about 5 years and I don't remember any other details.

Have you tried loosening (not removing) the engine mount big nuts? That may help.

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This gives me some hope that there is another way. But I sure as hell don�t want to remove the exhaust manifold.

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I will give it a shot. I have not seen this in any of the DIY�s.

Make sure your jack is centered under the engine. You should be just unweighting it, not lifting it. You may have it slightly tilted and it's putting pressure on one side. I didn't have that problem when I did my water pump, but that happened to me when I changed my engine mounts. I wasn't able to put a nut on one side.

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i agree totally. But this guy is jacking his engine literally to high heaven. You Tube

You should keep pausing to check while jacking. (That doesn't sound right).

Every pump of the jack I did check.

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rhkwon, I just did this 5 days ago. Pretty sure I can help, but to difficult to type out. Give me a PM and contact #. Sure I can help. Then we'll share with the forum when we get you settled.

Looks like you got three bolts going through the carrier just check this diagram Attachment 1303441

Attachment doesn�t work and won�t open. Where is the third bolt? And if this is true I feel like a real dummy. None of the other DIY or videos mention a third bolt?

Per this diagram there are three nuts that need to be removed on the engine carrier. If I recall, I removed the two engine mount nuts from the bottom, supported the engine with a jack, lowered the engine so I could move the engine carrier back towards the rear engine bay wall. You have to clear the bottom of the engine mount bolts in order to do this. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=109-00

I will take a look this afternoon for the third nut. And also remove the engine mount nuts also? I think I now understand the mechanics of why this would be necessary but still not sure why none of the DIY�s don�t mention this. My car is a C4 manual 1999 btw.

Just spoke with rhkwow. Tried to walk him thru some stuff. Seems like he is doing things correctly. However, there a 5 bolts/nuts that support the carrier. The 2 bottom 13mm nuts (he says 15mm in video), the 1 bottom 10mm bolt and the 2 top 15mm nuts that you can just loosen. Maybe you guys said 3 since the top 2 you don't actually remove. I think his issue is with jacking up the engine at an angle and the threads are catching on the carrier cause it's twisting. He's giving it a shot later today and making sure the engine goes up straight by making sure he lifts it at the center point of the engine not the center point of the carrier or car. Cause if you notice the engine carrier is not perfectly centered with the car, it's shifted to one side slightly (forget which way). Even in the video the guys lifts the engine and you can see it tilt counter clockwise cause he hasn't center his jack to the engine, he's a little to right (passengers side). This causes the engine to twist and the carrier catches on the bolt threads preventing it being pulled rearward. So you have to sort of get a buddy to stand back a ways and signal the the engine is going up and staying flat. Also lift slowly and pull at many points as you lift, each bolt will lift off the carrier at different stages. Said he'll give us updates.....

Finally got the carrier loose. Only 2 15mm nuts hold the carrier to the block and not 3. Lifted the engine on the outer edge of the block to the right of the coolant drain plug and after a couple of pumps the carrier came loose. Don�t place the jack directly on the drain plug itself for obvious reasons and I don�t recommend jacking under the oil pan either. The angle at the oil pan is not favorable. That�s why the guy in the video kept jacking and jacking. Water pumo drops right out. More space is available if you remove the thermostat, thermostat hose and lower expansion tank hose (coolant hose y-pipe) and the hard coolant pipe line (held on by 3 10mm bolts). I also replaced all my hoses so removing the hoses definitely gives you more room to work but the carrier does need to be moved to allow for the WP to drop out. At least for my case. I saw another video where the guy did not appear to touch his carrier at all. The pesky lower right (southeast) bolt is a bit tricky to get out. I used a 10mm offset wrench and was able to get it out after about 50 turns. Now getting that sucker in will be another story. Scott says he was able to get it in with just a 1/4 ratchet and 3� extension. Thanks to Rolex Scott for the great advice. I am ecstatic. For a little while I was thinking I might get stuck and have to tow the thing to a mechanic.

I had a lot of trouble with that bolt and it took up most of the time, especially if you count the dozens or trips to the store to find a better tool. Someone here mentioned getting a thin-walled socket for that bolt. I didn't have one at the time but I'm ready now.

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Got everything buttoned up. The pesky bolt was actually very easy to get back in and tighten and you can easily torque this bolt to specs. W ork the bolt in from under the car by placing the bolt in the socket (you can also attach it with some tape to keep it in place) and use a 1/4 ratchet with a 10" or so extension and a swivel with a normal 10mm socket. Hold the extension by hand and guide the bolt into the hole and you can get the bolt started that way and then tighten up with the ratchet. I'm positive various other combinations will work but this is what worked best and easiest for me. This will also work for the removal of the bolt. And remember the 2 longer bolts go in at the bottom where the 2 dowel cylinder sleeves are (these extend out from the flush part of the water pump and can't be missed). The M6 x 25 hexagon-head (of which you need 5) part number is 900 378 013 09 (now superseded to 900 378 13 01). The longer AM6 x 30 hexagon-head (2 needed) part number is 900 378 177 09 (now superseded to 900 378 013 01). Torque to around 7.5ft/lbs. I got the bolts mixed up because whoever replaced the old water pump put in one of the longer bolts in the incorrect hole. Here is a link for those who like pictures. https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=30517 The thermostat housing removal was also pretty easy with the hoses detached. The upper bolts will need a flex/swivel and extension to remove/tighten. Again 7.5ft/lbs or so is enough. The housings are made of aluminum so you don't want to bend or crack these by overtorquing. You will need 4 M6 x 20 hexagon-head bolts. Part number is 900 378 030 09 (now superseded to 900 378 030 01). I compared the old and new bolts and the new bolts have a larger diameter collar that fits exactly flush within the diameter of the thermostat bolt holes. This is a pretty straight forward and easy job. No special tools are needed. The hardest part is getting everything set up before you can even remove the water pump. I took my leisurely time doing this job. I think if one is really pressed, one could do this in a couple of hours.

Sorry I tried to copy the attachment over not sure why it didn't work, yes you need to support the engine unbolt the engine mounting bolts and the three nuts holding the carrier to the engine ok photo825.jpg

There you go seems to have worked now