23 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSmall drip from oil drain plug
Reported or suspected cause
two gaskets
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Leading evidence: 'two gaskets' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'two gaskets' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean * drain pan' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When I changed my expansion tank and then later the water pump, I drained the coolant into a clean container, filtered it through a clean cloth and reused it because it was fairly new.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I changed the washer on the drain plug but noticed a slow drip last night.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The good news is the leak was from an incorrectly tightened oil drain plug.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When the drain plug is tightened the ring experiences some deformation.
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Suggestion
When I changed my expansion tank and then later the water pump, I drained the coolant into a clean container, filtered it through a clean cloth and reused it because it was fairly new.
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Suggestion
When I changed my expansion tank and then later the water pump, I drained the coolant into a clean container, filtered it through a clean cloth and reused it because it was fairly new.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When I changed my expansion tank and then later the water pump, I drained the coolant into a clean container, filtered it through a clean cloth and reused it because it was fairly new.
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
It is so important when changing the oil to use a new ring, and the proper one not just something out the junk drawer that 'fits', and making sure both the drain plug threads and its sealing surface are clean and free of any damage, and the same goes for the oil sump threads and its sealing surface.
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23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T213932Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So I did a DIY oil change the other day finally. I changed the washer on the drain plug but noticed a slow drip last night. I am guessing the only way to fix is to pull the plug, try another washer and re-install which means 90$ in oil to waste. Any hard done in getting a few miles out of the oil before fixing the leak? Oil pressure good and still shows full...
Unless it's already stripped...
Clean your drain pain really well or buy yourself a new drain pan. Drain oil, reinstall plug, refill oil with drained sample.
If you're sure the leak is from the drain plug then you can drain the oil into a *clean* drain pan.
Then examine the sealing surfaces of the drain plug, the sealing ring and the oil sump.
If the drain plug or sealing ring show any surface damage replacing them both is probably a good idea.
If the oil sump's sealing surface is damaged...
You might have to live with this or if you can't then remove the sump and replace it with a new one with an undamaged sealing surface.
If you believe you can live with this leaking drain plug/oil sump interface, there is always the risk, granted most likely small but not zero, that if there's a leak there is the possibilty the drain plug may not be as secure/tight as it should be.
I would not apply more torque. The seal is created by the coming together of a correct and *new* sealing ring between a drain plug in good and clean condition and an oil sump drain hole and sealing surface also in good shape and clean.
It is so important when changing the oil to use a new ring, and the proper one not just something out the junk drawer that 'fits', and making sure both the drain plug threads and its sealing surface are clean and free of any damage, and the same goes for the oil sump threads and its sealing surface.
When the drain plug is tightened the ring experiences some deformation. Not much -- the ring is made out of a pretty hard material (purposely so) -- but if you look at the ring that was used you'll see the deformation.
If the ring is reused this deformation can damage the sealing surface of the drain plug or the sump.
The drain plug of course is easily replaced (I carry a new one in the center storage of each of my cars just in case). The oil sump is not so easily replaced.
Sincerely,
Macster.
The OP considers living with a leaking crankcase drain plug and might pour used oil back into the engine of an exotic sports car with known lubrication related deficiencies to save $90. Something seems amiss here.
I would simply torque the drain plug to 37 ft/lb. If that doesnt work, get a new plug and washer and re-use the oil from a clean container as Ubermensch suggests.
What would be the point of losing $90 worth of brand new oil? he just changed it sport. Known lubrication related deficiencies? I believe it's time to lump this guy in with KrazyK....
Snout,
If you think about it, you will recall that the root casue of the IMS issue is likely inadequate lubrication of the bearing. Put the used synthetic oil in your lawn tractor or in your Suburban... not in the P-car. It's just not right.
Merry xmas, j
The second he opens the seal on the quart of oil it's used.
The second he starts the engine it's used. How long has it been used?
10 miles? 100 miles? 5000 miles?
If the oil has been used for 10 miles, would you replace it again if you drained it from your engine?
Just because oil has been in the engine and then drained, once it comes out of the engine doesn't mean the oil is suddenly "bad" and "used" and must be replaced.
When I changed my expansion tank and then later the water pump, I drained the coolant into a clean container, filtered it through a clean cloth and reused it because it was fairly new. Why dispose of it just because it came out of the car. I would reuse fresh oil if it had to be drained to change/inspect the drain plug.
I recently worked on a car (new-to-me track car) that had a slight leak at the drain plug... and it turned out to be TWO gaskets on there!!
Crazy things happen. You might have changed the washer, but there might be another one on there from a previous oil change.
The good news is the leak was from an incorrectly tightened oil drain plug.
But that is also the bad news. Had you not noticed the leak, or assumed it meant nothing, the drain plug could have come loose and possibly cost you an engine.
Get yourself a good torque wrench. There's no excuse to not have one if one is doing his own oil/filter servicing, or any other work for that matter.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Get yourself a tourque wrench but you dont have to spend a bundle on one. I got a Torin (made in Ontario Canada) for twenty odd dollars. I also got a collapsible wheel wrench which fits in my tool box for about the same amount. Glad that you fixed the oil drip.
