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YOUR RESEARCHLN Drain Plugs (2) Leak, Anyone Else?
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Use snap
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I use torque wrenches on critical things like head bolts, Crank and con rod bolts but everything else I go by feel.
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Suggestion
I bought a digital torque meter some time ago and that allows me to check (and adjust if needed) my torque wrenches.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Firs,t I'm going to check the calibration of my torque wrench but wanted to see if it's just me.
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Suggestion
If you hear or feel ANY kind of grit when replacing the plug in the pan, take it out and clean the plug, washer and pan opening again.
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I've tried two different (brand new) LN drain plugs (torqued 19ft #) and they both leak. The original that I pulled did not. The torque spec book from Raby has 36ft# for the drain plug. That's a big difference!
Firs,t I'm going to check the calibration of my torque wrench but wanted to see if it's just me.
LN has been very responsive and we are trying to figure it out.
UPDATE
My torque wrench is not accurate!
I haven't had any issues with mine. I have one of the very early ones. I would check that there is no debris or cracks in threads in the oil pan. I always torque it to 19 ft-lbs.
I assume you're using a new crush washer and have checked that the old washer isn't stuck to the opening.
I have to admit that mine slightly leaks when torqued properly. Solution - a teeny tiny drop of black 3M gasket maker on both the plug and washer seals it up good. I don't know really why it leaks/weeps and I have the latest style LN oil drain plug. But it works and then I don't worry about it anymore. Always a brand new washer every time. And I don't have that oil streak leading to the back of the sump cover. Go figure.....
Which means ? Out of calibration or no good at that torque range? Under torque would be better than over torqued I think. Asking since I�m about to get that plug.
Out of calibration. Took it to my indy and when mine clicked (25ft#) his turn two more times. Some tools NEED to work as advertised!
I'm now researching for an accurate one.
808Bill, I have been off of RL a lot in the past week or two. Whatever happened with your car. Seems like many predicted that it was AOS related, but we feared there might be internal damage with the connected rods from hydrolock. Are you going to replace the AOS or stick with the catch can? Did you scope the cylinder to see if there was any damage at all?
No issues with my LN drain plug.
I was fortunate enough to have a torque wrench calibration unit at work. I had my cheap torque wrench calibrated. It was relatively close to accurate (it under-torqued by a couple of pounds), but now is dead on.
Been driving it to and from work and feel no issues at all. New AOS just arrived and I plan on installing it tomorrow. Still on the fence regarding the Catch (I have one) can.
Buy a …
used Snap on split beam torque wrench,
new Precision Instrument split beam torque wrench,
Avoid the electronic ones unless you use them everyday, or you need the angle feature.
Depending on the wrench, there is always an adjustment screw somewhere in the handle that allows you to fine tune the accuracy. I bought a digital torque meter some time ago and that allows me to check (and adjust if needed) my torque wrenches. Don't go overboard with trying to get it dead nuts on. If your wrench is within 3-4% of indicated value, that is more than good enough, Very often, your method of using the wrench will add more than that to the final value of the torque. Also affecting the torque is whether the fastener is wet for dry.
I saw a video on youtube from a guy who was posting videos for a living and he was doing some flywheel fastener torqueing. The final value was 90 degrees and he just eye balled it and that was good enough for him. Probably not good enough for me, but that is how much accuracy people expect sometimes.
This is absolutely true. The maintenance technicians that helped me calibrate my wrench demonstrated how different methods of using the wrench will give different results. The most accurate method was to smoothly and slowly approach the torque value and stop when the wrench clicked. The least accurate were the "bump and click" and the "double bump and click". This is where an individual rapidly pushes down on the wrench and gets a click and then releases. The double is when they rapidly push down and give it a bounce to get a "click click". I have seen workers in tire shops do this. On the calibration machine, I did a few of these torques with a 90 pound setting, as if I was torquing a wheel. The actual values ranged from about 125 ft-lbs to 150 ft-lbs!
Wyovino - that video was interesting. I've never thought about tool testing my tools. Which is strange because when I did forensics at the lab, we tool tested everything. I may have to give this a shot this weekend and see what I come up with. I foresee a purchase of something other than harbor freight torque wrenches in my future.
You wrench enough and you'll know what enough is. I use torque wrenches on critical things like head bolts, Crank and con rod bolts but everything else I go by feel. My experience is that if you use a torque wrench all the time, pretty soon you will screw up the setting and snap a bolt.
I have a Craftsman torque wrench for the finer things and a larger Harbor Freight one for wheels and big things - almost like a breaker bar. I'm going to try that test with both.
I am in this club - maybe because I'm a geezer that over the years has learned what "just enough" is for drain plugs. Most everything else I will torque to spec, but so far I have had zero issues with the LN plug. I also stocked up on replacement washers.
The comment above about grit or debris is spot-on. If you hear or feel ANY kind of grit when replacing the plug in the pan, take it out and clean the plug, washer and pan opening again. Experience is a good teacher...although cruel at times.
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