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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHVariocam Actuator bank 2 not engaging
Reported or suspected cause
fried transistor/driver in the ecu
Reported cause
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Reported cause
I had this issue and turned out to be a fried transistor/driver in the ECU that caused the solenoid not to work.
Leading evidence: 'fried transistor/driver in the ecu' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'fried transistor/driver in the ecu' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check solenoid - if it's bad' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
If it's not working, you could start by checking the solenoid - if it's bad replace it and see if you get lift at high (3,200?) rpm.
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Suggestion
Just disconnect the electrical connector and when the engine is running, apply the 9V.
Replace then simply insert back in without doing anything else
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Suggestion · Original poster
Can I simply remove/pull out the variocam actuator in bank 2 (or bank 1 for that matter) to possibly clean or replace then simply insert back in without doing anything else?
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Replace then simply insert back in without doing anything else
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Suggestion · Original poster
Can I simply remove/pull out the variocam actuator in bank 2 (or bank 1 for that matter) to possibly clean or replace then simply insert back in without doing anything else?
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Suggestion · Original poster
I have seen videos where they can be cleaned and start working again however the videos I've seen have the variocam actuator completely taken out and set on a work bench.
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Suggestion
Once the cover is off it's quite easy to remove the solenoid without touching anything else , if the actuator itself needs removing , the cams will need removing , the cams and actuator come out as one assembly and can then be removed on the bench by use of another special tool to remove tension from the small cam chain linking the cams before the actuator can be pulled out from between the cams , probably replace the actuator chain pads also as these are usually worn and cause cam deviation fault codes , good luck
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9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Can I simply remove/pull out the variocam actuator in bank 2 (or bank 1 for that matter) to possibly clean or replace then simply insert back in without doing anything else? I would like to do this to trouble shoot to see if I can get the actuator to engage with
Durametric
(of course the engine will not be running). If it doesn't engage then I would then move to the the solenoid. I have seen videos where they can be cleaned and start working again however the videos I've seen have the variocam actuator completely taken out and set on a work bench. My concern is if I do this wrong I create a larger problem when simply inserting back in. Logically I do not think it will do anything as would think the cam or other internal parts would not have moved. Any advice, thoughts, questions or comments? Fault Code: P1524 Camshaft adjustment bank 2 then resulting in misfires on 4,5 & 6
***No reason to Respond to this as I have received direction from a Renntech member***
If you've got a "variocam plus" car (3.6 L M96-03 or later) then I think you can remove the solenoid without removing the cam cover - but not the actuator itself. If it's not working, you could start by checking the solenoid - if it's bad replace it and see if you get lift at high (3,200?) rpm. If it still doesn't work with a good solenoid, the actuator itself probably isn't working. This doesn't necessarily mean it's toast...Sometimes they get clogged by debris in the oil. Regardless, you'll have to pull it out to clean it... Good luck
dporto- thanks for the input. I have 3.4L where I was hoping I could just simply remove the actuator by unbolting the two bolts holding it in, pull it out, clean it and reinsert it but it appears to be more complicated than that. I will start with the solenoid trouble shoot first.
You will need to remove the valve cover to remove the solenoid if it's faulty, it can be unbolted from the vario cam actuator without removing the whole actuator, you will need to install a cam hold down tool on the head to hold the cams before removing the cam cover as the cover itself mainly holds the cam in place with only one other set of bearing caps under the cover . Once the cover is off it's quite easy to remove the solenoid without touching anything else , if the actuator itself needs removing , the cams will need removing , the cams and actuator come out as one assembly and can then be removed on the bench by use of another special tool to remove tension from the small cam chain linking the cams before the actuator can be pulled out from between the cams , probably replace the actuator chain pads also as these are usually worn and cause cam deviation fault codes , good luck
Also look for glenn986s posts on Facebook , he rebuilt his boxster S engine
photo586.jpg
^^Yeah, sorry to hear that
As stated above, you'll need to remove the Cam cover. What you see sticking out is actually only the solenoid - the actuator is underneath the solenoid (as seen in the photo^^^). The solenoid isn't "cheap", but the actuator itself is crazy expensive (around $1k). Unfortunately, even though the test will tell you if it's working or not, they won't tell you why... So, you'll have to take everything apart regardless...(if it turns out they're bad/broken)...
You can test them with a 9V battery before removing anything. Just disconnect the electrical connector and when the engine is running, apply the 9V. The engine tone will change if the solenoid is working. If you are unsure, do the same thing with the bank that you know is good. I had this issue and turned out to be a fried transistor/driver in the ECU that caused the solenoid not to work. It was a $7 part that had to be soldered onto the ECU board. Test everything before removing anything!
I just went through this. My post is called P1530 or P1531. I spent $1500 of a mechanic�s money when a 9V battery trick would have helped reduce that bill...
The mechanic told me my DME is sending the wrong signals, so I plan to have ECU doctors run a diagnosis on it.
Its correct that the solenoid is only removable by taking the cam cover off - a 7-8hr job! Even though there are two bolts that appear to hold it, it won�t come off on the 3.4 engine.
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