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YOUR RESEARCHThermostat change - how much coolant?
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Check numbers again and actually it's closer
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i checked my numbers again and actually it's closer to 3 gals.
Leading evidence: 'Check numbers again and actually it's closer' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check numbers again and actually it's closer' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Pelican Parts replaced the leaking one with another gallon.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Anyone have a rough guess how much coolant I'll be adding after just replacing the thermostat?
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~2.5gal (diluted), same as if you removed the drain plug on the engine.
The whole system holds ~6gal. The rest will be in the radiators/heater core and hoses.
When I did my water pump and thermostat, it took 4 gallons. (2 gallons of concentrate)
I did have a little left over.
I have a center radiator, but I think that only adds 1/2 gallon at most.
You'll have to pull the water pump to get to the thermostat, so now is a good time to replace it with a
composite impeller water pump
.
I suggest an OEM water pump.
I used my cheap clone of an airlift.
OEM Tools
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW39HJS/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW39HJS/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works great.
If the engine is out of the car, then no problem changing the thermostat by itself.
But if the engine is in the car, and the water pump is still installed, I'd be surprised if you can get to all the bolts.
They're hard enough to get to with the water pump gone.
The fourth bolt, which is not visible in my picture below is really tough to get to.
There's not much room in this area.
It really helped having an engine on a stand while I did mine.
Let me know if you want some pictures with the thermostat removed so you can see where the bolts are.
I can pull the housing and take a picture.
Everyone needs an engine block in their garage.
Also, let me know if you can do just the thermostat.
If you haven’t changed the coolant in the last year of two you should try to get as much out as possible. An Airlift type of system will get most of it out. Of course if you use the Porsche coolant this get pretty expensive. Since I had my engine out in 2009 due to an intermix and flushed the entire system to clean it I have been running Peak and in 10 years and 50,000 have had no problems. I changed the coolant every year or two, none of this “lifetime coolant” BS for me.
If I had to flush it, I would choose something other than Porsche.
I have some Pentosin that I would use, but I was afraid to mix it with the Porsche stuff.
Probably not a big deal, but I figured it wasn't worth saving a few bucks.
Mine arrived leaking, but I didn;t los that much.
Pelican Parts replaced the leaking one with another gallon. so now I have plenty of Porsche coolant.
Looking at labor times, the thermostat calls for 1.3 hours, the water pump calls for 3.4 hours according to Mitchell, so I would say you should be able to get the T-stat out without removing the pump.
Doing the thermostat on it's own wasn't a big deal. I pulled the hose that goes to the thermostat which made a lot of room.
I used about 2.5 gallons of coolant.
The bolt heads were still covered in cosmoline and the thermostat housing was cast in 1996, lol.
