separating eng/trans

Rennlisters that have done this; Car is an '02 c4s manual, 81K mi. clutch has always been a little heavy since i've owned it, 3yrs ~20k mi. but coming from air/cooled pre g50 i figured no big deal maybe a broken helper spring. Recently clutch action has become very light and the clutch started slipping which brings me to where i am today. Decided to diy and go with the Ln Solution since i'm doing the work. Using a Quickjack, everything is disconnected...that top bell housing bolt nearly kicked my A$$ till i figured the only way was to lower the trans ~ 1" and use 1/2" extensions running to the rear of the trans which allowed me break the bolt loose. Thought i was done. I had lowered the engine by loosing the engine mounts prior but before attempting to separate i tightened the engine back up and as a precaution placed a 2x8 running under the pan to take up any slack with removal of the trans. I've raised and lowered my transmission jack but i can't more than 1/8" separation between the two. It appears both engine and trans are moving when i attempt to push back on the trans. Logic says i'm binding but the current separation appears even on the sides and bottom. What am i doing wrong? Could something in my clutch assy be hanging? Ps used the search in this forum and have the Bentley and the Pelican 101 books Tia. i workout regularly but today my 64yo body isn't happy.

Your pilot bearing and the nose of the input shaft of the trans are stuck. I have seen this before and it takes a lot of even prying/force on both sides at 180 degrees apart to get them loose. Just make absolutely sure you have all the attaching bolts out before going ape on the separation. and yes the engine will have to be supported under the pan/sump or it will ruin the engine mounts.

Porschetech3, Thanks for the quick response and not what i wanted to hear...but i'm flying solo here. What are your thoughts on using a come along from the rear of transmission to some fixed point towards the front of the car. i know it sounds a little shade treeish but that way i could apply bite sized torque while using wood to try and break the eng/trans free. Thanks for your thoughts.

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. Pulling on trans like that will just flex/stress the engine mounts unless you also stolidly secure the engine to the chassis, then it will be a good process.

one of these makes it easier for a solo worker. SIR Tools P-254 Engine Support Bar for 996 https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...yesterday.html https://www.ebay.com/i/382450251153?chn=ps

When I dropped mine last year, it was hard to separate too. A buddy came over to help, with both of us under the car and with prybars, it finally came loose. One tip is to make sure the engine is supported (I made my own carrier with 2” angle). Then the transmission can be lifted and wiggled Independant of the engine. Angle of tranny and engine must be the same or the shaft can bind.

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Thanks, I've had a hard time finding one of these. I just bought one.

If you aren�t supporting the front of the engine you are putting all the weight on the point where the transmission input shaft enters the clutch. It is easy enough to make an engine support bar if you are set up to cut and weld. I also have tall jack stand posts with threaded posts that work for some jobs on the lift, but I like the engine support bar for transmission removal.

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Thank you so much for sharing! Probably will fabricate my own. Did the SIR tool come with a case by any chance?

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You don�t even need to weld if you don�t want to. I used 2�angle, with 1�flat bar drilled and bolted to it (to mount to sway bar mounts). Drilled another hole and used a large bolt and nut combo for the contact with engine. There are even simpler solutions here on Rennlist however I wanted the ability to adjust height of engine that the adjustable nut and bolt arrangement gave me.

If you're still struggling with this, my rec. would bee to drop the engine - it really makes everything SO much easier. It is more work, but there's nothing particularly difficult about it. when it comes to doing the Solution (or anything else on the engine for that matter) you'll be happy you did the extra work...

You could also get some pieces of wedged wood and hammer tap those into your gap on equal sides. Then go and wiggle your rear wheels back a forth a bit to see if any shaft movement might help.

But, in case it wasn�t clear, do not try to remove the transmission in place without suporting the engine with something. If you do, all of the weight is carried by the motor mounts at the back with nothing supporing the forward part of the engine.

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Not sure how wiggling the rear wheels would help, since the wheels (drive shafts) should be disconnected well prior to this stage. By this point, entire transmission is free, hanging up on the input shaft.

I was on a 4 post when i did mine. I had a 4x4 across the ramps holding the front of the engine, and I slid various shims in under the 4x4 to get the right angle, maybe 6-7deg down. Loosen the rear MM and leave them bolted but loose. Once I had that, I could wiggle the trans out. I also like the idea of wood wedges one per side that can be tapped in alternately. BTW, putting the trans back in is no joy either.

" BTW, putting the trans back in is no joy either." ^^^ Hence my suggestion above... I can't imagine how difficult it is to line up the tranny with the motor in the car. It took longer and was more difficult than I thought it should have been with the motor out (for me anyway)!

Darn, the seller on eBay refunded my money, but didn't say why. I'm back on the hunt for one of these engine supports. Lots for sale online, but no one has them in stock. I may have to fab my own, but I'd rather buy one. I don't have time to be fabricating tools at the moment.

Agreed. I dropped everything too and was still surprised at the difficulty of getting the transmission back on. Dropping the motor will be my standard procedure if I ever have to split the two. I don't foresee being rushed enough to try and take the shorter route. And with a vacuum coolant refill system the most annoying part is made much less of a hassle.

I did not have any problem removing or installing just the gearbox on a 996 or 997.1 with a manual transmission. It is a two person job (easier) and it is a job best done on a lift.

I have done many trans removals on the lift, and a couple on the ground (mine in my basement). On a lift I have had the tranny out in 30min, and a full clutch/flywheel procedure in 2 hours many times. The trans sometimes does get stuck sometimes due to pilot bearing rusting/sticking to the input shaft. You just have to get physical with it, but don't use any more force than necessary, and make sure the force is directed ONLY to pulling the input shaft from the pilot bearing. Obviously ( or maybe not so obvious)This means having the weight of the engine and also the trans supported, both at the same angle, and force applied evenly...

Well sports fans, y'all do it any way you like. I had three old guys and one young guy around, and we humped it in there on the lift by hand. If were working alone, and/or on the ground, I would have gathered up more tools, or maybe drop the whole thing(then ya gotta lift the chassis off don't forget). ymmv, objects in mirror, contents have settled, and may cause **** leakage.

Damn, out in 30 minutes. Never in my wildest dream. It takes me that long to get the wheels off, bottom liners out of the car.

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What type of hex bit socket and wrench do you use to remove the half shafts? I did mine but I had lots of issues with clearing the thick rubber boots and it took me forever. I even snapped a long hex bit socket due to the torque required.

Just a regular metric allen socket from a craftsman set.

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. Yea, the long hex flex too much, and the short ones won't clear the boot well, a medium length hex is " just right"... Lol

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I had the same experience but couldn�t seem to find a Goldilocks version. What�s your brand of choice?

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. Snap-On, Matco, Mac any of the top tier professional tool companies have the Goldilocks medium lenght. May be hard to find in the more affordable brands, but you can buy just the individual size you need and not have to a "set" which will have many never needed ones in there..

I use this one. Perfect size. The pic is not accurate. It's shorter than shown but long enough. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00018AHM2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00018AHM2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

You could also knock the bit out of a longer one, cut it to goldilocks length and reinsert it.

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Tried that. Broke the socket.

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It takes me 30 mins to just talk about what I�m going to do before I do it, lol.

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I talk to myself all the time and it does not keep me from taking wheels off. You can do this multitask thing.

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It's what happens when you do it for a living, It's called living on "flat rate". You learn to keep moving and make every motion count. If you don't learn, you could starve to death..lol Just like taking the wheels off, that is time wasted if R&R a trans, unless you are bad about bumping your head !!!

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That's why I keep my most commonly used tools in a specific spot on my rolling cart. They stay there unless I have them in my hand. If I don't use the tool often, it stays in the toolbox. My toolbox is very organized. I never really have to search for a tool I keep an inventory of every tool, so I know when I've lost one.(which VERY rarely happens) I also marked every 10mm, 13mm, and 17mm socket & wrench with yellow paint/tape. I chose those decades ago and there's no way I'd choose a different color or size now.(even though I've considered it) I have multiple wrench types(combination, stubby, flare, ratcheting, thin, specialty, E-Torx) and socket types(impact, chrome, hex, torx, e-torx, triple square) & depths. They are all marked that way. (Yellow means 10mm, 13mm, 17mm) Count up 2 from 17mm and you're grabbing a 19mm. With them in the holder, I can quickly grab any size without really looking. I have two toolboxes, one that I work out of and no one else is allowed to get a tool from, and a second that anybody can borrow from. I have two of almost every hand tool needed for automotive work. I have some multiples of specialty tools. Flat rate means you learn how to minimize Non Productive Time.(NPT) Even though I no longer work flat-rate, I still work like I am. (Actually I do work flat-rate, everything I do is done for free now.)

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Most people don't realize the effort it takes to organize your tool box for maximum efficiency and to stay ahead of the robots !! lol I don't think I'll ever see the day a robot will do a clutch/flywheel, RMS, IMS job on a 996.. LMAO They can do marvelous work at assembly/repetitious processes, but are still useless in repair/complex R&R processes..