996 engine removal vs transmission removal

I'm giving some thought to doing an IMS upgrade at home rather than sending it to a garage. I'm also thinking of dropping the combined engine & trans rather than just pulling out the transmission. I haven't removed a 996 engine/trans before so I am interested to know whether it's significantly more effort to drop the combined engine with transmission attached (as compared to just removing the transmission). Any idea of times to do the respective drops is appreciated. Likewise if there are any DIY guides posted I'd be keen to know about those. Cheers. Oh and the reason for dropping the motor is so that I can get to the muffler mounting brackets.

I've done it three times ins last six months. Now I can drop the engine, separate transmission and engine, put them together and install in a day. Although some plumbing and electrial work is left for the next day. Engine/trans is attached to the chassis with four bolts. You have to disconnect engine harness, lambda & MAF wiring, starter cable, AC lines ( or separate the AC pump from the engine ), power steering lines, transmission cables, fuel lines and coolant hoses. On the contraray to 951, all plumbing is done with quick disconnect fittings. For coolant there's big ones for engine and small ones for heating. Smaller ones are best disconnected from below, beside the transmission. Then there's also drive shafts, rear axle crossmemeber & transverse strut, sway bar and transmission lower carrier. Car must be rather high, depending on the height of your engine lift. I used a wheeled scissor lift, designed for these kind of jobs. Car must be level ( not like in the picture ) , otherwise the engine will stuck to the rear chassis crossbar...

I think it helps to have the right craddle for the engine once you get it out. It's not just drop the engine on the ground unless it's the old days.

Thanks for the input guys. I figure if I go this route I'll invest in an ATV scissor jack to get the motor out.

car must be really high! the advantage to taking them both out is you can do some stuff to the motor while its out (ie the AOS, any oil leaks, check hoses, water pump, and even cam pads if you feel really adventurist... If I was alone n my garage on the floor, I would pull the trans alone...I dont have space to pull them together.

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Yeah space is an issue for me in these tiny English garages. Would you like to put a time difference on dropping just the transmission vs dropping the engine & trans ?

I dropped the transmission first and left the engine in place supported in the rear by my homemade support to replace the IMS bearing (firm fixture). Once the IMS was done, I dropped engine to replace other parts. I think it would be hard to balance both the engine/transmission and then have to re-balance once I took off the transmission. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

Thanks Rick that's not a bad idea. What did you mean by firm fixture ? CHeers

I welded up a engine support bar like the factory tool that bolted into the sway bar mounts. So the engine was supported by the two rear mounts and the bar by the bell housing. Gave a very firm fixture to pull the IMS bearing out. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

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cool.... any pic of this support bar? Im gonna diy the IMS this winter....

Since I will plan a DIY IMS as well I guess I will be fabricating a support bar as well. Actually my welder is thousands of miles away so I will be getting something made up. How long did you spend on the bearing extraction/replacement Rick ?

I too would like some pics or specs you can provide of the engine holding bar. I would much rather use that and have to work around a jack under the engine :|

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Red, I looked yesterday for a picture of the bar, but nothing (and it's 1800 miles away right now). It was really simple, just some angle iron about 36 inches and 2 pieces 6-9 inches or so. Welded altogether and drilled some holes to fit where the sway bar bushing bolt up and then welded a piece on with a welded nut to adjust to the bottom of the bell housing area on the engine. Worked well and cost only time as I had the steel laying around. OZ, I did this over about a week during Christmas last year. The IMS bearing took maybe 1 hour to replace. I was surprised how easy the bearing came out. I was anticipation a harder fight. The hardest part was to get the new bearing back in straight without using a BMFH. After I replaced the IMS bearing, I re-inserted the tensioners (temporary),I dropped the engine. Once it was out, I replaced the cam chain adjuster pads(very worn), the IMS to exhaust chain guides (I would not do this again, very little wear), water pump, AOS, RMS, cam solenoid seals, oil pump seals, all 3 tensioners (two were badly scored). I had 105K miles on the engine at the time, it now almost has 115K with no issues or leaks. Soak the header manifold bolt in lots of penetrating oil, as to get 4-6 cam cover off, the header has to come off and I broke 3 of the 6 bolts. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

Thanks for the insights Rick. I am hearing you with respect to soaking the header bolts. I am waiting on delivery of some PB blaster and liquid wrench before I start on the headers (can't get Aero kroil here).

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Rick, I am headed down this road soon, have some questions. Why did you temporary installed back the tensioners before you dropped the engine?

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just did some digging.... this looks like it... you're right it is simple. Wonder if you can bolt the angle iron instead of welding. http://www.etoolcart.com/enginesupportbarforthe996.aspx

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Just wanted to make sure nothing would fall into the openings (4-6) and keep the oil drips to down (1-3 and IMS). Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

I remeber seeing an engine support bar for sale on pelican but can't find it now... Did find this... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...b-996-c4s.html