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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWould you buy a 2000 911 with 113K?
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Replace of course various wear/tear items
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Of course various wear/tear items have been replaced over the years when needed or when due.
Leading evidence: 'Replace of course various wear/tear items' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'best kind of driving one can' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace manual' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I have changed the oil since day one every 5K miles, running Mobil 1 15w-50, then Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, and most recently Castrol Syntec 5w-50.
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I think a factor in this oil's performance is that I change it every 5K miles and I subject the car probably the best kind of driving one can.
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Suggestion · Original poster
He bought a 99 911 with tiptronic to replace his manual.
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I have changed the oil since day one every 5K miles, running Mobil 1 15w-50, then Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, and most recently Castrol Syntec 5w-50.
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Suggestion
I have changed the oil since day one every 5K miles, running Mobil 1 15w-50, then Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, and most recently Castrol Syntec 5w-50.
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I'm looking to buy my first porsche and want a 911. I am not mechanically inclined at all. I have an opportunity to buy a 2000 911 with 113K for under $19,000. It is a two owner car with the last owner an older dealer and mechanic for foreign cars who basically works his own shop. He has owned it for a year but can't drive a manual anymore. He bought a 99 911 with tiptronic to replace his manual.
Any comments on the mileage issue and what I can expect from a car like that?
I was redirected over to this forum from the 911 forum.
Steve
If i were YOU i would not... Personally, I like buying higher mileage cars only because i can work on them. But ive noticed around 100k miles people tend to dump the cars because they want to avoid major maintenance to keep them running. For example, IMS bearing, RMS, water pump, timing belts/chains, fuel pumps, numerous seals, etc. My 996 has 90k miles and most parts are original. I do expect some parts to fail due to the fact they are over 10 years old. But, unless you want to pay the dealer a lot of $$$$, I'd avoid it. (the rest of the forum may disagree)
The records for the car you are looking at will speak for itself. If it is maintained well and drives great, go for it. But, I would drive some other 996's to compare if you have never driven one before. Good Luck.
absolutely NOT
based on your own OP... not mechanically inclinded at all, $19k ??? high mile MKI
NOPE.... do yourself a favor and if you want a 996 find one that has a CPO and spend a few extra bucks up front will be $$$$ WELL SPENT
welcome to the board
timing chain?
look the OP said he is not mechanicaly inclined - an MKI high mile 996 could have any sort of issue at any time... it might last another 50k miles and it might die tomorrow. Without some desire to do some wrenching, its not a good fit for him.....IMO
Hello Steve....,
If you can get the the records of the car and pass a good PPI at the dealership i would buy it with no problem.
Price is maybe a bit too high and if i was you i would make an offer of around $17.000.00 and if he accept go for it.
Those car are really reliable and if you can find a good independent mechanic like mine (works for less the $40.00/hour) why not buy it.
This car worth for sure more then $9000.00 and years before i bought Porsches with more then 100K on then and i never had any problem with....
Believe Porsche car are good and reliable car and if you can get a good PPI buy it.
Good luck
Robert
2000 996
@ $40/hr I would not touch my car....
IIRC the going rate round these parts is about 3.5x that
@ $40 a 4 hour job like an AOS would cost $160 ???
name the guy stupid enough to do that job for that price
You don't have to be mechanically inclined and do the work yourself if you can afford to have the car maintained and serviced when it needs to be. Not everyone can do their own work for various reasons.
That the car you're looking at has 113K miles suggests it has been been taken care of and has a better than average engine and is probably good for another 100K miles. If you proceed you must have the car subjected to a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified tech who knows these cars inside and out.
If you buy the car, though, there will be things happen. While the engine will probably be ok various accessories can require attention.
My experience is with an 02 Boxster (bought new in Jan 02) and it currently has over 233K miles on its original engine, clutch, transmission.
However, it has required since around 80K (in no particular order) a wheel bearing, MAF, couple of O2 sensors, battery, fuel pump, water pump, radiator fan resistor, passenger door lock, new plastic window. Of course various wear/tear items have been replaced over the years when needed or when due.
It needs at least one converter but I'm nursing the original ones as long as I can. Oil consumption up to about 1 quart in 5K miles. I have changed the oil since day one every 5K miles, running Mobil 1 15w-50, then Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, and most recently Castrol Syntec 5w-50.
I've probably put more miles on the car with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil than most have miles on their car. I think a factor in this oil's performance is that I change it every 5K miles and I subject the car probably the best kind of driving one can.
A 100K mile car can be a good buy -- I don't know if the price you posted is a good price or not you'll have to do your research -- cause 100K sort of scares people away. If one's a savvy buyer he can pick up the car for a low price -- providing always the car's worth owning -- and save a lot of money vs. buying a newer car. Depreciation is usually the largest expense of a car and buying a high miler example means every other owner has borne the depreciation.
But you have to go in with your eyes open. Worst case is engine failure (though a transmission failure not cheap either). No one can give you accurate odds but if you buy the car at a good price then your loss -- if there is a loss -- should the worst happen and you can't or won't fix it -- will be less. And honestly I think the odds are in your favor the car will run another 100K miles.
Determine your comfort level for risk and if you find it acceptable with this car then move forward. It is just a 10 year old used car. If you're uncomfortable then keep looking.
You have lots of choices.
Added: Forgot to mention the car also has had 2 AOSs and an ignition switch.
Sincerely,
Macster.
19k and around there is too high for shopping and seeing that mileage. Waiting and watching you probably would see an even lower price mixed with lower miles. Remember like mentioned things change if the engine was replaced not too long ago.
my car is a low mileage 2000 996 and there is always something to do, all have been minor but I only have 30k miles on the car. I would not buy a car with 100k plus on it. It will have issues, even minor ones cost money to fix and forget about resale.
I just purchased a '99 at 115K. Its my third 911--though my first watercooled. Each car was over 100K.
There's no particular reservation or problem with 100+K; period. Like any car, it depends on the car and what you know about the ownership, maintenance, problems, etc. Documentation is always good, but not a stone-cold requirement. Depends on how you do your homework and your comfort level.
If you can get past the conventional paranoia on this particular model 911--IMS, RMS--then its best to understand that lower mileage vs higher mileage is no guarantee, or even a good predicter of what "will" happen. In fact, and it may have been expressed already, a lower mileage 996 at this point could be more worrisome--the IMS may not have been "lubed" enough through proper driving. But, hey, that's just internet wisdom, you know?
Take it for what it's worth to you: my thinking was that at 115K, "if it was going to happen, it would have by now." After that, it was a question about what I could find out about upkeep and replacement of worn or failed items, and a good PPI. Every thing after that is a crap shoot with any car.
So, decide the maximum amount you can have sitting in your or someone else's garage if something goes wrong, and work from there. Plenty of good opportunities. And, year and mileage is not a specific predictor of what the price should be--difference is upkeep. Could be the difference between a $17.5 car and $19.5 car.
Anyway, bottom line is that its about the car specifically, not the mileage generally.
Totally agree.
Personally it's the low mileage cars that would scare me to having the IMS done right after buying it. On a hige mileage car I wouldn't bother or worry. If it hasn't failed it is fine.
^^^ +1
You could end up with a 20-40k mile car, that has not been well-maintained, abused, or simply is one of those ticking time bombs. Judge a car by its condition and history, mileage does affect pricing though.
When I bought my 2002 in 2006, it had 70k miles. I checked the history, called up it's first and only owner, and found out he was a corporate executive who travels out of town a lot. Highway miles on the Pcar....was perfect for me. That with a full service history from the dealership in south FL, not a drop of oil, original engine. Today at 97k the engine is still rock solid.
Research, PPI, and negotiate for a better price. Good Luck if you buy!
I was the original poster for this topic. Let me tell you what I know about this car. It was a one owner car in south carolina. It looks like the owner didn't use porsche service. It was probably too far away from him. He drove it until Nov 08 and put 106,000 miles on it. It was traded in at HBL Porsche on a new porsche. The independent shop owner who purchased it from HBL has a son who is a tech at HBL. The car interior and exterior looks like some of the cars I have seen that only have about 60k on them. I will ask for a price reduction and also that it has a PPI from porsche. I hope that after that I can tell that the car will be worth it. It is only going to be a weekend driver in the spring summer and fall.
Steve
It's nice that it's a 1 owner car. If i were looking at this car, I would have an extensive PPI done by a independent Porsche specialist, not the dealer.
In additional to a traditional PPI, I would pay the extra $$$ and get a compression test done as well.
My car had 36K on it when I bought it, is covered by a CPO warranty until 2/2011, and I still had a PPI done by and indy porsche shop.
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