Anyone here doing alignments with string?

Being able to do an alignment in my home shop is something I've been wanting to learn how to do for a while. Just wondering if there's anyone here who could recommend any specific tools that they found helpful for doing this on their 996/997. Thanks in advance

If you just want to use a string method, here is a very clever technique. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...nment_tips.htm Also here is an old post on home alignment tips https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...nt-method.html

I've been doing them at home for the last couple of years. First attempt was sort of like Jennifer's post, using jack stands to support strings. Fiddly system. Next moved to two length of electrical conduit (any straight bar would work, but conduit is cheap and light). I marked notches in the conduit that positioned the strings exactly the same each time and suspend the conduit on jack stands. This at least gave me a parallelogram. In fact, as long as the lines are parallel, they don't even need to be a perfect square, and you can use this program to calculate. https://robrobinette.com/DIYAlignmentCalculator.htm Problem I ran into was that I couldn't reach the adjustments with the car at static height. So, the next iteration was using tie down straps to suspend the conduit off the front and rear bumper (sort of like a hillbilly Smart String system). This allowed me to lift the car without disturbing the strings. I use large 6x6 blocks (two blocks, glued together for 11" width) under each wheel, with old PVC floor tiles (with grease sandwiched between two) to allow wheel to move without too much resistance when doing camber and toe. The extra 5.5" of ground clearance allows me "just" enough room to reach adjustments. I also switched my strings to a couple of old fishing reels and fluorescent fishing line...makes it easier to manage line. Still not ideal thought, as I still get tangled in the strings if not careful. I "think" lasers might be the answer and I'll be trying this next. I picked up a couple of cheap laser levels on little tripods that I plan to try next. It will still be fiddly to setup that parallelogram. If anyone has any brilliant ideas of an easy way to do this, I'm all ears. For camber, I've got a SmartCamber gauge but it doesn't sit well with Porsche lipless wheels. I've also used a magnetic digital angle gauge what sticks onto rotor, but getting it perfectly square to the ground is difficult.

Do you want to buy a ready made solution, or are you looking for a commercial solution? Here are smartstrings: https://smart-racing-products.myshop...f-smartstrings Like JTT said, you can make a homemade version. I've done some alignment adjustments, and find it works well on the four post lift, since I can get easy access to the adjustments. Like JTT, I used homemade slip plates. I used two ~12"x12"square sheets of HDPE under the tires (stuff that I had around from prior projects), and it was slippery enough by itself that I didn't need grease. There was a series or articles in the last few months on how to do the procedure either in Total 911 or Panorama. I'm sure there are lots of internet sources too.

The strings are excellent but sometimes you just want to put on some Pink Floyd and use the lasers. It's been my preference for the last 25 years. Be sure to get laser levels that include the attachment to project a line. Lay the laser levels together on flat surface so they project on a wall and ensure that they are square. It's best if the laser level can mount flat on the hub or road wheel. When in a hurry, I set a plastic top from a spray can on the wheel and set the laser level on the plastic top. Secure with bungies. This method uses the door of the car or the door sill as a reference. More exact methods would reference the chassis instead. Stand over the door and look at the laser line on the ground. You should easily see the angle between the door and the line (photo). One way to measure the angle is set an item on the ground of known width. Let's say I use a 1/2" diameter socket. My photo is a little off. The hockey puck is there to simply identify the point where the line goes under the door and is no longer visible. So measure from the hockey puck center to the socket center, let's say 25 inches. A half inch divided by 25 inches is 0.02. On my iPhone calculator, type in 0.02 then hit tan-1. I get 1.1457. That's degrees, not radians. That's the rear toe for that one wheel. Too much! Add the toe for the left and right wheels to get total toe. Also I use the iPhone to directly measure camber.

Mike, I'm slow on the uptake today. Where is the second laser placed to create the "zero" toe line?

Well that's a very nice idea. Place a second laser that is aligned withe the chassis to use as a reference. I didn't do that. I stand by the door and look down, the edge of the door and door sill are the reference.

Oh, from the pic, it looks like a second laser line is visible, fainter though. Must be a reflection?

Yes a reflection. Good idea you have however.

Quotes source post: 16314531

I am looking for a commercial solution. Thank you for the smart strings link!

I found it: October 19 Panorama, #751, pp. 100-104.

OK - I'm in. Good thread so far. Lots of good ideas and solutions. First off, the 917 is a big winner. A close second is the hockey puck in Arizona. Sting alignment is very good if you be sure to cover the details. I like the JTT ideas - especially the fluorescent fishing line. I need to work out a "confirmation" system to augment my current one. An old racing friend of mine was selling his alignment gear a few years ago. A Dunlop toe kit and another precision unit for camber and caster. Verifying all four corners are square to the chassis is an important final check.

For a commercial system SmartStrings seem to be the deal. I even watched Porsche Cup guys using these in the pits at the Montreal Grand Prix. They use trick wheel stands with them, but in the end, it's all about strings. That's a cool looking setup Scott! I saw, what I think was one of these, for sale on eBay or somewhere. It was all in a case and hard to sort out how it all went together. So, is that really a little periscope sighting to the opposing mirror?

Quotes source post: 16316198

Correct. You calibrate it by placing the two arms together. Look through the periscope and align the gauge so the cross-hairs center in the reflection. Once placed on the vehicle, you look to see what it takes to bring the cross-hairs back to the center. The gauge will read how far off the toe is.

Thats pretty cool! One of the challenges I have with my SmartCamber gauge (similar to the rig you have Scott) is that there is no flat spot or lip to get a consistent reading from on my 5 spoke OEM wheels. It's always a bit of a guesstimate.

Quotes source post: 16316904

Absolutely. You're final measurement relies on that guesstimate. Guess well, my friend.

I do everything with smart strings and a camber gauge. They paid for themselves the first time i used them. Highly recommend.

What camber gauge are you using? I'm looking at the Longacre Digital Caster-Camber gauge. Any other brands you think I should be evaluating?

This one... photo941.jpg

I have the same one.

I found this Stringless Alignment for DIY'ers a while back at Pelican. For about 50 bucks in part/ lasers I think it will be a good method. Using the "17 foot rule (204")" makes the calculation for angle to degrees to fractions simple and accurate. I don't like his "plumb bob" camber gauge though, I have a magnetic camber gauge that sticks to the wheel bearing nut. With the car at proper height for adjustment and some good "slip plates" I think this would be as good as any 60k alignment machine can do, "it's all the the set-up and careful measurements" .. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...nt-diyers.html

I also have seen professional teams using fishing reels and fluorescent lines at a race, so adopted that. I looked at laser levels, e.g., from Harbor Freight, but the +/- 0.125 or greater tolerance threw me off. The relatively expensive ones, Bosch, etc., are not a lot better. Back to fishing line and 1/2” conduit pipes hung from front/rear body parts and leveled. Also need to ensure car is sitting level and centered, can easily get +/- 1 mm.

Next time you use that camber gauge (I have Longacre) just hold the smartphone up to the wheel or hub and see what number you get.

Along with tooling, I'm investigating different shimming techniques to account for an unlevel slab. My favorite method I've seen so far is a guy using 1/8" plastic tiles to shim and work as slip plates. He would sprinkle some ionized salt between the plates to act as ball bearings. What methods are you guys using to level the ground?

I'm using tiles too. Picked them up from a local flooring place as old stock at no cost (they would have given me the case to get rid of them). I smeared grease between them myself and it seems to work well. Did you pick up a set of SmartStrings?

Quotes source post: 16322397

I leveled the 4 post lift on installation (there are nuts on top of each of the posts that allow you to adjust the height of the locks), and do the work on the lift. This makes it much easier to access all of the adjustments on the car.

Great thread. Learning a lot here. I've done minor adjustments on my steering alignment, but never realized that these kits existed. I figured precise alignment couldn't be accomplished without those fancy 60K systems at the service centers.

Quotes source post: 16319964

The +/- .125 accuracy tolerance of the "cheap lasers" is at 100 feet. If working within the 17 feet, the accuracy would be less than +/- .025 (less than 1mm)...

Quotes source post: 16322487

I haven't made any individual purchases yet; would like to make sure I have a solid plan for leveling, toe, camber, and caster before hand. Since you're not using a turn plate, how are you measuring caster? I'm liking the Longacre camber caster gauge, but you need a turn plate to measure +/- 15 deg. of wheel movement for the tool to measure caster angle.

Quotes source post: 16322503

Wishing I had room for a 4 post lift. Dang LA sized garage. I only have a 2 post lift, so I like how smart strings hang off the car. Plan is to leave arms under the lifting points (not touching of course). When I need to make an adjustment, I can pick up the car/smart string assembly all at one time, make my adjustment, and drop back down onto slip plates. My only worry is when picking up and droping the car, I may get variance in my measurements from the suspension not completely settling out. In theory, the slip plates should prevent that, but I don't have the experience to confirm that.

Since caster isn't adjustable on regular 996s (unless modified), I've not been too bothered about it honestly. If you wanted to measure, a simple protractor will allow you to make marks to measure the 15 deg. I think you will find measurements will vary too much loading and unloading the wheels. Best to perhaps make blocks to sit the wheels on (loaded) on slip plates and make your adjustments with suspension loaded.

Quotes source post: 16323636

You can't adjust caster with a stock suspension. If you have GT3 control arms you change caster as a byproduct from adjusting camber, and I think some aftermarket strut top mounts also allow for camber adjustments. I measured my caster with a magnetic wixey angle gauge (that I originally bought for tuning my table saw).

Really appreciate the help guys. I will save some money and forgo the turn plates for now. Will still most likely get the caster camber gauge though in case I end up with adjustable top hats, future cars, friend's car, etc. I haven't pulled the trigger on the Smart Strings set up yet because I'm considering using some extruded aluminum from Controlled Dynamics to make my own set up. I've used their products for test fixtures at work, and they are top notch. Blows 8020 out of the water. https://controlleddynamics.com/