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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH$800 for ignition switch changeout?
Leading reported evidence
Install sun, used the uro one
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Part arrived Sat, installed Sun, used the Uro one for under $20.
Leading evidence: 'Install sun, used the uro one' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'mechanism, as it happened' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check around and stay away' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
In my case, the dealer replaced the "Steer lock hsng", PET# 996-347-017-07.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The whole switch and assembly does not need to be replaced....you just need the switch.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
They replaced either the housing or the switch but not both (I'm on vacation and don't have my receipt handy) and it was like $150 with labor.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've been told early on just the electrical blob was replaced but there were too many bring backs so the factory stopped selling the electrical part separately.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
mechanism, as it happened
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause
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Reported fixes
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
I didn't think it was the mechanism, as it happened so suddenly, like something plastic went smoosh, which it looks like the business part of the back end is all plastic.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
On my '02, replacing the electrical switch (the cheap part) didn't solve the problem, so I had my dealer replace the entire locking assembly.
Earlier today, experienced play in ignition switch taking 5 minutes to finally start car. Drove to dealer leaving car on and was quoted 4 hours and $800 to replace ignition switch. Seems a lot, this seem accurate? Any other options? Thanks for any input.
Ignition switch can be bought for 15 online. Cheap part thats shared with Audi.
You'll be on your back in a limited space but really really taking your time...it'll take an hour.
Seriously do it yourself.
The whole switch and assembly does not need to be replaced....you just need the switch.
Sounds about right for the dealer, over $100 per hour labor. Check Pelican Parts for the cost of a switch. You could always buy the switch yourself and find an Indy to put it in.
Yikes!
I did mine in a couple of hours. The complete new OEM part was $180 or maybe it was $120. It's not that hard, but it helps to be small.
I would think that a new one installed would be about $300 to $400 at a reputable dealer.
You can buy just the electrical ignition switch itself for cheap as long as the metal assembly it mounts to is not worn out.
The dealer will replace the entire switch assembly not just the electrical blob at the end.
I've been told early on just the electrical blob was replaced but there were too many bring backs so the factory stopped selling the electrical part separately. Some have had good luck replacing just the electrical part but with that much play in the switch I would think the entire assembly would be required.
I had the switch in my Boxster replaced. I can't recall the cost now but I know it was not $800. The switch was under $200 and labor was an hour or so. I'd have to say the cost was under $500 and it could have been under $400.
$800 seems awfully high. But without a break down on cost of the switch and the labor required...
+1 to what everyone else here says. I looked at a car that had an ignition switch issue, and the indy doing the PPI quoted $300 to repair and replace. $800 should come with a lifetime supply of lube, and you getting a GT3 for a loaner for, oh, a week sounds about right.
read this at Pelican, Boxster and 996 are the same.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ion_Switch.htm
The replacement electrical portion is ~$12-15 at NAPA #4A0905849B
If that doesn't fix it, then Replace the whole switch/lock assy for $$$.
Given that the ignition switch is $11 to $15 at
Pelican
, I'd just replace that (DIY) and see if it fixes the problem. If that doesn't work, try replacing the entire assembly.
Either way, $800 is way too high.
Here are some DIY's for replacing just the electrical portion of the switch, which is mounted to the back of the ignition cylinder assembly under the dash.
Renntech DIY
(login required)
Pelican DIY
On my '02, replacing the electrical switch (the cheap part) didn't solve the problem, so I had my dealer replace the entire locking assembly. I think it was around $600 all in. Maybe a tad high, but the dealer had the part in stock which was worth it IMHO.
After the whole ignition switch has been replaced, will the same ignition key fit the car or does it have to have a new programmed key??? Does anyone know the answer to that please.?
When I dropped my car off to have 30k mile service and the hard second shift "lurch" I posted about separately, my ignition failed literally at the shop (key pulled out very difficult, radio stayed on and then it would not go back in). They replaced either the housing or the switch but not both (I'm on vacation and don't have my receipt handy) and it was like $150 with labor.
If the shop does the work properly you keep the same keys--no programming required. They actually swap the key core from the old housing to the new one.
^This.
There is no need to replace the whole unit, just the "end" piece. Napa has them in stock.
Took a bit of contortion to get the old one off but worked like a champ.
Even if the key is sitcking, the "end" piece is the only issue.
FWIW, not all ignition lock problems are resolved with a single solution. In my case, the dealer replaced the "Steer lock hsng", PET# 996-347-017-07. Parts
($182) and labor ($308)...before PCA discount; net cost =$392.
relinuca
did mine back in 2007, used the cheap audi parts from ebay.
u need to be upside down to put your head under the dash board to unscrew 2 or 3 small flat screws like on the glasses.
much easier doing it on a cab with top-down. :-)
My ignition switch just started acting up. It is very stiff to rotate full CCW and difficult to get the key out. Starts fine every time, but trying to remove feels like I am forcing something in the ignition that is worn, hard CCW to get the key out. Then sometimes , with the key removed, I get the alarm saying "Ignition Key Not Removed". If I smack the ignition with the palm of my hand, I hear something snap/sproing in to place, and the alarm clears. Dry lube does not appear to help. You can actually see the wedged shape part that the key pushes aside (I assume it is the key in place interlock) through the key hole, is stuck in the"pushed aside" position, and the smack on my hand causes it to pop back into the keyhole. Honestly, though that part seems unrelated to the "hard to get the key out" issue. Does this sound like the "back end" fix with the electronic part from Pelican would fix it, or do I need a whole switch assembly?
EDIT: OK, after reading a few more threads (ok lots of threads) it really sounds like it's just the electrical back end switch, and certainly just worth trying that first. This place is DA Bomb!
Thanks, Jim, I appreciate your input. I didn't think it was the mechanism, as it happened so suddenly, like something plastic went smoosh, which it looks like the business part of the back end is all plastic. Part ordered and already shipped.
EDIT: Friday couldn't get key out of ignition. Part arrived Sat, installed Sun, used the Uro one for under $20. Nicely built, actual removal and installation as others said, maybe 30 min. Used a small flat blade Craftsman, just the 2 screws, pulls right out. But the %$^@* AC duct, what a PITA getting back in. Just like you said, Jim, solved everything. Key easily turned to off with the old part removed, installed new part, and whole ignition feels brand new, snaps strongly back to run from start, key turns off smoothly and comes out easily.
My switch just died also - a few days ago the lock would stick after key came out (with key not removed warning) and yesterday I heard a piece of plastic snap when I turned the engine on and the AC controls would not work properly.
The instructions on Rennlist are great - removal took almost an hour - but I was taking my time - didn't have a TORX driver that fit well in the light socket - but eventually got the screw out - a bit of contorsion under the dash, but the old switch part came off relatively easy and I got a new one from Napa for ~$11 - put it back in - PITA to reinstall the AC duct - but only 30 minutes to replace everything - so I think 20 mins is optimistic for a first time job - but this is definitely a dooable DIY if you have the right tools and some patience.
New ignition switch feels a little stiff, but is working fine. New part is made in China - old audi stamped was was W.Germany. Still if I have to replace again in a couple of years it should be much quicker next time.
I'm starting to uncover the steering lock assembly.
Anyone know how to remove part #996 552 271 03 (the steering column cover just under the instrument pod)? I removed the pod and then the two top screws from this part. But this cover is still fixed under the steering column. It might just be pop fasteners but I don't want to force it in case there are some hidden screws.
What I want to reveal is the ignition switch steering lock (part #996 347 017 07 M100).
To remove the cover do I need to remove the steering wheel and the other pieces that cover the column?
I had all the ignition switch problems, sticking, turning too much, seat not changing program position w key, etc.. I bought the switch end piece on-line, shipped to me for $16. Same part was $135 at the dealer, $65 at the VW/AUDI dealer. It sat on my bench for almost 6 months cause I was nervous about changing it out. IF I CAN DO THIS, ANYONE CAN DO THIS.....55 minutes & a few lower back massages....and all problems gone-
good luck
My ignition switch started acting up about a week ago - hard to turn and remove key, etc. Finally the key got stuck in the ignition and I couldn't get it out no matter what I tried. Bought the part from NAPA (in stock, part number 4A0905849B, $11.49 plus tax). From start to finish, the job took 19 minutes. I did not remove the left side vent, just the one air duct piece above the brake and clutch pedals. I did not unhook the battery. Put a folded up towel or some other pad over the door ledge as a cushion for your back. Run the drivers seat all the way back. Use a small flathead screwdriver tip only, like one you would put in an electric drill. You'll want a light that floods the space but doesn't get hot as it will be right next to your head - I used an LED shop light. After you pull the purple plug off, put your head against the outside wall and you can easily see both set screws (probably covered in red sealant). Be careful when you scrape the red sealant off the set screws - it flakes off easily but landed right in my eyes. Doesn't take much torque to break the set screws loose. Back them out several turns, then pull off the switch. Once I did that, I was able to pull my key out of the ignition. Plug in new switch, tighten set screws, put on the purple plug and test the ignition. Replace the air duct and you're done.
OBTW, I'm a 6 foot, 245 pound, 50 year old guy, so you really don't need to be built like Tinkerbell to do this.
Yeah - but it helps ! Had my 14 y/o daughter fiddle the a/c duct back together - she did that in 5 mins with her small hands ! Now she can put "Porsche Mechanic" on her resume
It's $15 DIY job, a known high failure item (seems to be less "if" then "when"), and one that has pretty stiff consequences when it fails (unable to turn the car on, unable to turn it off, unabled to remove the key, etc., depending on how it fails). I bought a spare switch just to have it readily on hand; seemed like cheap insurance. This is the only part I've done this for.
e: Heavy keychains are suspected to lead to early switch failure, so keep that keychain very light, too.
Today, I tried for over 2 hours to complete this supposed 19 minute task . Let me point out I'm quite a lot bigger than KC Attorney and found my long forearms do not bend enough to get my hands in the proper position to loosen the 2 screws. This seems simple enough but not for me, therefore is there someone out there in the southern Cal area who has changed this out and would be willing to do it again? I will drive and pay labor rate?
I just did it. I too struggled. It's an hour procedure my way. Step 1. you take everything out. Seat, side vent, fuse box cover, obd connection, and both vent tubes. Then lay on your back and it's easy.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
