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YOUR RESEARCHOil Change and Storage Question
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I drove the car enough to where I needed to add gasoline and I filled the tank up with Shell 91 octane gasoline (the highest available in my area) and the engine was transformed.
My point is within this context whether to change to clean oil before or after storage isn't really gonna make a significant impact one way or the other IMO.
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I note a family member's new Infiniti sat from Jan to July unused and outside, with the same (premium) gas in the tank and in July when I took the car to use for a couple of weeks the engine fired right up and ran ok.
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Look at some of the bloody used oil analyses on these cars.
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You can also get a broader and less definite reading from oil analysis places like Blackstone as they analyze TBN levels in used oils.
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I'm asking because the last two(non Porsche) 150k+ engines I've taken apart that have used synthetics had none.
My point is within this context whether to change to clean oil before or after storage isn't really gonna make a significant impact one way or the other IMO.
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I drove the car enough to where I needed to add gasoline and I filled the tank up with Shell 91 octane gasoline (the highest available in my area) and the engine was transformed.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I've read a lot of articles and posts offering advice on storing cars for periods of time but I've been wondering if there's a consensus on the best time to change your car's oil -- before you put it away for the Winter or before you break it out the garage in the Spring?
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I've read a lot of articles and posts offering advice on storing cars for periods of time but I've been wondering if there's a consensus on the best time to change your car's oil -- before you put it away for the Winter or before you break it out the garage in the Spring? Does it depend on how the length of storage? In my case, typically ~4 mos (late Nov/early Dec until late Mar/early Apr...all temp dependent -- I don't have snows and the Summer tires don't like sub 40F temps).
And in anticipation of the inevitable "drive it year round and you won't have to worry about it" responses, thank you for your comment.
I'm not putting my 996 away for a while but I was thinking about it in relation to some routine maintenance I'd like to schedule and just thought I'd ask.
-Eric
One of the things that ruins oil over time is fuel dilution. Any fuel that gets in the oil will lower the "base number," basically making it thinner. So, if the oil has been in the car awhile and has a bit of fuel dilution and then it's sits, the oil will continue to dilute even though it's not driven. I would change it when you took it out of storage.
Before.
Oil breaks down with use due to contaminants. Given enough time these will clog passage ways and create sludge. If your engine goes in with dirty oil, these contaminants are sitting idle and potentially bonding to the surfaces they contact.
Also, the fuel contained in used oil can harm seals if the concentration is high enough and time long enough.
So given that you are going to change it, and its just a matter of when, change it and let it sit with fresh,clean oil. No need to change again in the spring.
How many actually have noticed any significant amount of sludge build up using synthetic oils?
I'm asking because the last two(non Porsche) 150k+ engines I've taken apart that have used synthetics had none.
Key words are in bold. Average annual mileage for a car in US is between 13k-15k miles. If 996s were actually driven, there should be very few 996 cars with less than 100k miles.
That by default tells you that all of those sub 60k 996 sit most of their lives. Synthetic oils do a great job at protecting engines that are running, when engine is hot and oil is flowing and lubricating parts. When cars sit like seems to be the case with 911s, oil does not do anything but absorb moisture.
To the OP, I would drain all of the fluid before storing the car. Drain the engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, and clutch fluid. When you are ready to drive the car, put in the new fluids and be on your way.
I'v personally saw late model 2006+ Acura/Infiniti vehicles that had 300k+ miles, on original engines and transmissions. Engines ran perfectly, used no oil, and without looking at the odometer you would not know that car is on the return trip from the Moon. All cars with this mileage were commuters or sales person's cars, all were serviced with synthetics. Specific cars in question are Infiniti M45 and Acura RL.
Synthetics tend to have reduced sludge than dino's. Just because a car sits doesn't mean it will sludge. Obviously the more miles and the dirtier the oil, the higher chance of sludge, the longer it sits and the climatic conditions. Scientific calculation would actually be to get data from the Oil Manufacturer and determine at what TBN level's the additives would've been depleted that prevent sludge to form. You can also get a broader and less definite reading from oil analysis places like Blackstone as they analyze TBN levels in used oils.
My point is within this context whether to change to clean oil before or after storage isn't really gonna make a significant impact one way or the other IMO. But then again people split hairs on many things on these forums so it isn't surprising to see people even debating about this.
^ its not any more complicated than this. It might very well not do any harm if you leave old oil in for a few months, but if you have the option why risk it
I agree with Eric C and do all of those things myself. I would add that it is good for the car to be taken out and driven until thoroughly warmed up (hot really) once a month or so during the winter storage. I find it possible to do that here in the Inland Northwest (Washington State) during most months of storage. I just call the insurance office and have them insure it full coverage for one day when I do this.
One further item for older vehicles is to use a product such as StarTron to counteract the ethanol content in fuel (used in many areas of the US now). If the fuel is going to be sitting for months, it is better for fuel lines, carbs, the fuel tank, anything metal, if the ethanol is neutralized. Newer vehicles have been designed with more resistance to the damaging effects of ethanol, but most vehicle manufacturers assume that cars are driven year around and are not designed for fuel to just sit and age in the car.
Always put the car away with fresh engine oil/filter. Drive the car once or twice to ensure the fresh oil and any old oil is thoroughly mixed. If you just change the oil with no engine run time the old oil remains where it can do its bad things.
What bad things?
Well, primarily the concern is acid. Unburned fuel, water and other combustion byproducts get into the oil as the engine is run. Over time these form acids which every time the engine is shut off attack the various materials the oil is in contact with.
Among these are the very fine hardware that makes up the valve lifter zero lash adjusters, seals, gaskets, and of course a whole bunch of other items.
By draining this old contaminated oil the acid content is very very low and the oil's additive package is very fresh and that's about as good as it can be.
Also, when you take the car out you can drive it right away without having to do an oil/filter service before hand, which of course will likely get put off for a while.
Use some recommended fuel stabilizer if you want.
I note a family member's new Infiniti sat from Jan to July unused and outside, with the same (premium) gas in the tank and in July when I took the car to use for a couple of weeks the engine fired right up and ran ok.
However as I spent time with the car I thought the engine was a bit down on power. But being unfamiliar with the car I just thought this was the way it was.
But save for being a bit down on power there were no other untoward behavior from the engine.
I drove the car enough to where I needed to add gasoline and I filled the tank up with Shell 91 octane gasoline (the highest available in my area) and the engine was transformed. A heretofore down on power engine was down on power no more.
A real night and day difference.
Thus you might consider putting the car away with maybe less than a full tank. Do not worry about condensation. The tank is not vented to atmosphere so there will be no breathing in of outside air.
Then when you take the car out fill up with fresh gasoline and while it won't be as good as a full tank it will be better than having to drive the car long enough to burn enough gasoline to make a fill up have any benefit to the old gasoline.
If you want to save some money and are planning on an oil change in spring, just drain the oil and fill it. No need to replace the filter since the car will just be sitting.
Saab 9-3's, and I believe there are a couple of toyota engines that will. The former has to do with poor catalitic converter placement. (right under the oil pan) Not sure on the Yota's... don't own one so never did the research. But both are very prone to sludge buildup without frequent oil changes (5k for my saab using a good full sythedic)
Any evidence to back this up?
People treat these like gold sometimes and if it makes them feel comfortable then so be it. I know not everyone here has been wrenching on cars for 25+ years and probably better for some to yield on the safety side.
Some obsess about the smallest stuff that really IMO doesn't make a whole lot of difference unless you plan on keeping it forever. "Look, I have no sludge buildup but my head is cracked..." Sludge is a byproduct of heat and oil. There's no way to escape it until the next best thing comes out. Obviously if you do 15k OCI, and store it away parked outside for ages, you might have more than others.
Yes I'm also a fool for participating in these discussions over and over again and really need to channel this energy in putting on all the parts I have sitting on the shelf....
hey, if you have the option of changing the air filter every 200 miles, the fuel filter every 5k miles, and the transmission every 15k, why not do it? I mean, its a risk.
Please, you're the type to buy a $200 oil filter.
Bottom line, it does not matter. The engine will be perfectly fine either way. Look at some of the bloody used oil analyses on these cars. The amount of fuel dilution is a non-issue.
If it makes you feel better to change the oil before, do it. If you don't, there will be no impact.
there is an impact to leaving old oil in....!
it will attack your RMS and over time degrade it and cause it to leak... and we all know what happens next... best is to leave the car in storage with oil less than 500 miles on it.
Right. Essentially, my car is ready for routine service and I was trying to figure out whether it was worth doing it this Fall, knowing that the car will then go into storage, or in the Spring when I first take it out. I figured, why do it in the Fall if the consensus is that I should change the oil in the Spring? That's why I asked. It seems the consensus is that the Fall is the better time to change the oil (even if some believe it won't make a material difference if I wait until Spring). On the other hand, I don't believe anyone said I would be worse off by changing it in the Fall.
-Eric
