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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHReplaced my drop links - clunking solved!
Leading reported evidence
Replace sides, inner and outer tie rods
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Leading evidence: 'Replace sides, inner and outer tie rods' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check human error' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
While you are under the car checking the sway bar bushings, inspect the "other" rubber mounting points.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Picking a 92 degree morning to do the repair wasn't my best decision, but finally, after several trips to the hardware store for tools that I didn't have (metric flat wrenches, 18mm deep socket), and after figuring out you have to straighten the wheel to get these things out and in...
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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4 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
I've had a suspension clunk when the car gets warm for years. When I brought it to my mechanic, he said don't worry about it, everything is tight, and it could be the shock mounts, not worth investigating. OK. I took it to another mechanic, who basically said the same thing.
After doing research on Rennlist and Renntech, I read about how the drop links were a cause of clunking, and a relatively easy fix.
Picking a 92 degree morning to do the repair wasn't my best decision, but finally, after several trips to the hardware store for tools that I didn't have (metric flat wrenches, 18mm deep socket), and after figuring out you have to straighten the wheel to get these things out and in...
my problem is solved!! The car doesn't clunk over every little bump in the road, and I think the car handles better in the curves (better connection to anti sway bar = better handling, right?)!
Well worth the $70 for the parts!!
I had some issues with mysterious clunks and creaks as well (when warm). My indy couldn't find out what it was so he just injected grease into many of the various bushings etc. I drove it a few miles to work in the grease,and viola ! no more noises. I nice stop gap until I redo the suspension.
As an engineer that deals with high end medical equipment, intermittent and hard to diagnose problems are so difficult to solve. Hopefully you find a mechanic that will give you some options to look for. It saves down time and money for you. But like a doctor, if they don't give you the answer you want, you can always go get a second opinion.
Check the Sway bar bushings next... then the inner tie rod ends.... then the Camber plates... then the rubber bushings both at the Caster bushing and LCR bushing at the sub frame.... If you see any cracks in the rubber they are either going or Gone!
Rears are very simple as they are right in plain sight. Fronts take a little more work. 1st disconnect (at least 1) the drop links. Take the under skirting off (to get at the front bushings) remove the 2 mounting bolts for each bushing, slip off the cap, spread open the bushing and pull off the sway bar. This is a great DIY project. While you are under the car checking the sway bar bushings, inspect the "other" rubber mounting points. Any cracking indicates that they are gone or going... Feel free to call if you have any trouble.
Ok, my point is if they disappeared and then POOF they are back. I Would make double sure all is tightened up well.
Toss parts and labor at it as you will. But double check human error.
I had a 997turbo that was driving us crazy with a steering noise after it was lowered. Everything was tight. Finally I disconnected the front sway bar end links and the noise was gone. I had some adjustable front end links made and set the end links to the correct height for the lowered vehicle and that cured the problem. The sway bar really needs to be at the correct angle to prevent those noises when the steering wheel is at full lock.
Replaced both sides, inner and outer tie rods. $200 in parts, $55 for Gudcraft ITR Tool kit from Amazon & $15 for OTR ball joint removal tool from Napa. Took 90 min to do both sides ( I have a lift, makes it a bit easier). Noise is finally GONE. Very easy job with the right tools. Had new tires on the car, so was going to get an alignment anyway. Mechanic told me toe was almost perfect.
How did the Gudcraft work out? All my front end parts arrive Monday and I will be re-installing. I measured the Lisle ITR tool 1-1/4" insert and it was out by over 1/32" which, coupled with the slot in the tool allows the jaw to flex and round off the bolt. Two other inserts were out by as much but the rest were dead on.
The Gudcraft looks more substantial and the insert is captive so it cant flex.
Now..about that lift? Dannmar?
I like this one b/c it alread has my car in it in the ad so I know it will work.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6167_200386167
The Gudcraft worked like a champ. The 1 1/4" was slightly wider, but not sloppy. A 1/2" breaker bar fits in the base and each ITR just came right out, no muss or fuss. Was easily able to torque the new ones in with Loctite Red with the same tool. The hardest part is honestly snapping off the SS clamp that holds the accordion boot in place. Pick yourself up a pair of #36 hose clamps and you will be set. I took pics and will post. The difference in the steering feel was significant. I didn't realize there was that much binding going on, no wonder it was so noisy. Had the alignment done today, -0.5 camber front, -1.6 rear, 2mm toe front, 3mm toe rear, with my PSS9s set to 117F and 129R, measured at the 996 measure points. Didn't have a chance to test high speed stability yet, but so far it feels great.
I bought my lift in 2009 in a group buy for $1200. Nothing that fancy, but it works exactly as shown, and fits my needs perfectly in my 8 1/2' ceiling garage, with one of the biggest ones being I can store it when not using it.
www.ezcarlift.com
I also had a case of a suspension rattle/clunk that was solved by replacing the tie rod end. I thought I had cured the noise by tightening up the damper strut lock nut - that solved the noise I could hear when cold but it did not cure the noise that was present when warm. The 'warm noise' was the tie rod end.. a very slight amount of play could be felt and a tiny clunk could be heard when yanking on the tie rod. I have just put a 1000 miles on it over the past few days and the noise is definitely gone.
I am guessing it's easier to just get a new set of tie rods (complete units) and replace, right? Instead of buying all the tools, I'd just have someone install them.
Anyone know how many hours are budgeted for the job if a mechanic does it?
