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YOUR RESEARCH03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
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That's what the dealer told me it was and that's what it turned out to be!
03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
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Leading evidence: 'be' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'be' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check debris' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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On my car it turned out to be gunk on the splines on the box input shaft binding the clutch mechanism.
03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
Replace twice and in both cases the symptom was
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I've had mine replaced twice and in both cases the symptom was that I had to "slam" the clutch pedal to the floor.
03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
Use signal
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I remember parallel parking and that's the last time I used the signal.
03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'll check for debris, but I don't think it's that either.
03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
Replace anything, i�ll have
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Suggestion · Original poster
if they can't, I'll change the clutch interlock switch and if that doesn't change anything, I�ll have to have diagnostics done to see what changed the engine characteristics...
03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
Replace clutch interlock switch and if
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Suggestion · Original poster
if they can't, I'll change the clutch interlock switch and if that doesn't change anything, I�ll have to have diagnostics done to see what changed the engine characteristics...
03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
Replace engine characteristics
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Suggestion · Original poster
if they can't, I'll change the clutch interlock switch and if that doesn't change anything, I�ll have to have diagnostics done to see what changed the engine characteristics...
03 C4S clutch pedal problems + other minor problem.
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18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Outcome without a verified action link
When mine was failing the only thing it affected was engaging the starter, once started there was no difference in the operability of the car.
Hey guys,
Problem 1
: I started driving my car after a night out and noticed that my signals were all out of wack. When I signal left, it holds fine in that position, but when I signal right, it does not stay in the right position. Also, when I signal left and after completing the turn, the turn signal would not stop on it�s own. After some research, I purchased the whole signal switch assembly and plan on fixing it myself by taking off various pieces off the steering wheel.
problem 2
: This one is really bugging me... I was driving and noticed my clutch pedal felt very notchy at times from the pedal assembly itself. As I press down the clutch pedal, it clicks, sometimes almost jams up. Other symptoms I noticed is that my throttle is slightly different. The Variocam doesn�t engage at the same spot anymore and my clutch �sweet spot� has changed. I�m guessing it�s the clutch interlock switch? Or could it be the helper spring that broke?
Night out? Turn signal mechanism broken, clutch feel "wrong", throttle different, Variocam changed, etc...? Did you Valet park it?
Problem 1
Porsche 986/996 Indicator Stalk Replacement - YouTube
Problem 2
sounds like could be clutch helper spring related.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...matically.html
Problem 2.1
Throttle pedal:
https://rennlist.com/forums/4639666-post16.html
Sweet spot, Variocam,... ???
Thanks for the reply. Problem 1 is definitely solved. I remember parallel parking and that's the last time I used the signal. That's when whatever tab broke inside for sure. I never valet my car. I’ll be fixing this issue on the weekend.
Problem 2 is my real concern. It's very hard to figure out... I'm ruling out the helper spring because that just changes how the clutch pedal feels, but nothing more. About the throttle pedal you mentioned... it's definitely not that as I have no gas pedal problem.
I've just been noticing that the mapping or the way the car drives is different now. My Variocam doesn't come in the same way it used to, before it was noticeable now it's not so distinct. Also, the clutch pedal doesn't make the clicking/crunchy noise anymore(it did when I originally noticed the problem), so something maybe dislodged or either went back into place.
For the first time in my life I grinded second gear twice last night and that never happens. Maybe some broken switch affects the way I press the clutch all the way down, or a relay of some sort is not always recognizing that I in fact have the clutch pressed in.
Very weird symptoms, and I spoke to my mechanic and he thinks it's pressure plate related. I really hope it’s not that as that’s a pretty expensive bill.
Also, another first symptom to note which I think is the clutch interlock switch is the fact that on cold starts I have to turn and hold the key for a while as I have a delayed start. I sometimes have to repeat the process a few times or press very hard on the clutch pedal for it to start...
Don't mind the red circle as this is not my pic... but the tab part on part 9 could be pushed in and I notice that when the clutch pedal is in it's normal position, it does not even make contact with the tab part on the arm of the clutch pedal. There is a small gab... does anyone know if it should touch, or better yet push that spring in?
On my car, the clutch pedal was heavy and made odd noises when pedal depressed (no jokes about depressed pedals please.......too easy). On my car it turned out to be gunk on the splines on the box input shaft binding the clutch mechanism. That's what the dealer told me it was and that's what it turned out to be!
Interesting. Mine made very odd crunchy noises the day I noticed the problem so obviously something happened then and there. Something probably broke changing the whole dynamics.
The pressure to depress the clutch has remained the same though, ever since I bought the car. With a broken spring or without, I'm sure this isn't the problem.
I'll check for debris, but I don't think it's that either.
One symptom, going from memory, would be that the cruise control won't disengage when the clutch is depressed. Normally, with CC on, depressing the clutch will deactivate the CC.
For the starter interlock switch you have pretty much described the symptom of needing to push harder on the clutch pedal. I've had mine replaced twice and in both cases the symptom was that I had to "slam" the clutch pedal to the floor.
My symptom is similar but sometimes slamming the clutch down doesn't work. I have to turn the key to the on position and hold for about 5-10 seconds until the engine starts turning.
My main question is if this switch is faulty, would it affect the driving characteristics in anyway?
Ok, you're talking about a starter interlock switch, I have it worded as clutch interlock switch although I think we are talking about the same part.
I found a post in a thread that someone mentioned it affects various items. I'm trying to find it and when I do I'll post it here...
Ok I found the post. Here it is from a use named Gator Bite
"It's not really a "Clutch Delay Switch". A "Clutch Delay" would slow the release of the clutch, and it's usually a mechanical device like a manifold with a fixed orifice to slow the flow of hyrdaulic fluid from the cluch slave cylinder. BMWs (expect M models) use a clutch delay to make the cars easier to drive / harder to stall.
The switch you're talking about does one thing for several reason, one of them overlaping the benefits of a clutch delay. It retards the timing when you press the clutch, and for a short time after the clutch has been released.
1. Retarding the timing reduces shift jerk which makes shifts smoother, but more importantly protects the Dual Mass Flywheel from damage.
2. During take offs, retarding the timing reduces the chances of knock/ping on clutch release. This makes it much easier to launch without stalling (the overlap I was taking about).
3.
By knowing when the clutch is being depressed, the DME can widen the range of acceptability in it's misfire detection module
.
Here's a quote directly from the Porsche Tech archives: "The program that evaluates misfire is complex. it has to be able to distinguish between deceleration caused by rough roads, potholes, shifting, and other non misfire causes, and deceleration caused by misfire."
4.
By knowing then the car is shifted (watching the clutch), the Torque Control can reduce engine braking during high torque downshifts
.
Here's another quote from the archives: "On deceleration with unacceptably high engine braking when downshifting, engine drag torque control (MSR) prevents the drive wheels from locking on a slippery road by slightly opening the throttle valve."
So by removing that switch, you may in fact feel some added sharpness to throttle response when shifting. Because now you have a sharper timing curve
. But you will be castrating all 4 of the benefits mentioned above. To summarize:
1. You may experience premature failure of your DMF
2. You may find yourself stalling your car more frequently, and you may find that your car has less power than before, because when it preignites - the DME is going to pull the timing back and keep it back for a while.
3. You may experience a Check Engine Light, and investigation may reveal random misfire codes.
4. You may notice locking of the rear wheels after high RPM downshifts. This is most likely to be noticed on slippery surfaces like rain or snow, and it is likely to cause oversteer."
I bolded the main points. If this is true, this switch does affect other things. Thus, explaining why my car is driving differently.....
Very interesting. When mine was failing the only thing it affected was engaging the starter, once started there was no difference in the operability of the car. I even had a Porsche tech suggest that I could bypass the switch but the risk would be engaging the starter with the car in gear.
Keep hunting, will be great to know what the solution is.
I noticed my spring in fact is broken and it was always broken since I bought the car a few years ago. So I got used to the "heavy" clutch feel. I'll replace the spring and see if I like it or not.
The reason for the noise and weird crunch feeling was the spring itself, the broken pieces dislodged and started interfering.
I'm taking the car to the shop next week to change my rear tires and they'll try to figure it out. if they can't, I'll change the clutch interlock switch and if that doesn't change anything, I�ll have to have diagnostics done to see what changed the engine characteristics...
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