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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCEL and 9 yes 9 codes to read!!!
Leading reported evidence
Clean maf one more time
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
In the mean time, i cleaned the MAF one more time.
Leading evidence: 'Clean maf one more time' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cracks' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
In addition to cleaning the MAF, carefully follow all vacuum lines and check for cracks.
Check intake tube between the maf and throttlebody
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
Check the intake tube between the MAF and throttlebody.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
In addition to cleaning the MAF, carefully follow all vacuum lines and check for cracks.
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Got sick of the damn cel already. first it was one code p1124, then it became 2, 1124 and 1126. Reset, car good for 50 miles or so, then the cel on again. This time went to autozone to have codes read, and I got the following:
p1124,
p1126
p1314
p1315
p1319
p0150
p020 or 120 cant remember
and 2 more.
02 sensors malfunction, engine rich threshold, maf malfuntion, vaf malfunction...
so...anybody have a experience with a porsche specialist in the los angeles area, i reside in burbank. I am getting a little doubtful of my indi's abilities. a point in the right direction should would be helpful.
TIA, Peter
Here is a list of the codes you threw.....Suggestion would be to get to sombody that has the high end Porsche equipment (ie, PST2) and can tell you EXACTLY what is causing this to happen.
P0150
Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited
P1124
Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold
P1126
Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold
P1314
Misfire, Cylinder 2, Emission Relevant
P1315
Misfire, Cylinder 3, Emission Relevant
P1319
Misfire, Emission Relevant
Thanx all,
just the 02 sensors? or the MAF also?
p.s. what would cause 02 sensors to go bad? the maf I know, but the 02 sensors?
hope warranty covers 02 sensors, not sure, it does cover the maf though!!!
Peter
Having the code generally is not in anyway helpful in diagnosing a problem. You need to hook up your scanner and look at the actual readings of the various sensors. O2 sensor faults can be caused by dowzens of other porblems in the engine. All the sensor is doing is telling you it ihas exceeded it's allowed limits. It could be caused by a fuel pressure problem, MAF, intake leak, vacuum leak, spark plug/coil problem, bad gas, exhaust leak/blockage, bad ground and on and on.
Probably 95% of all O2 sensor faults are caused by some other makfunction. Get a sacanner and you'll be better able to diagnois the problem yourself and also be a more educated customer whe you go get raped at the dealer.
Peter,
I got your note asking about my expereince with P1124 and P1126. It was a cracked oil speparator bellows tube (which resulted in a vacuum leak). Cost about $350 to replace at the dealer, most of which was labor. It looks like something else is going on with your car though. Is you CEL solid or blinking? I was under the impression that misfires would result in a blinking CEL.
Tim
The tip off for this situation is the P0150 fault. This indicates that there is a short on the sensor part of the bank 1 O2 sensor. I did not see how many miles are on this car but it is not totally unusual for the Bosch sensor to fail with less than 50K miles on it. However it is more common for them to fail at about 80-100K miles. Usually the sensor heater fails first. However the best way to be sure is to put the car on a scope and watch the signal from the O2 sensor.
An air leak usually does not trigger this sort of fault, especially one that says the mixture is too rich, an air leak will usually trigger a MAF fault with an error that that indicates the mixture is too lean.
I would not rule out the MAF sensor, but it is less likely that this is the cause of the faults.
Sorry my error, the correct fault nomenclature for P1124 and P1126 is:
"Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air.,Bank1 System too Lean" and
"Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air.,Bank2 System too Lean"
Yeah, could be an air leak.
Are all of the hoses etc, plugged in OK?
Your orginal description of the 1124 and 1126 was correct.
P1124
Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold
P1126
Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold
What is means is that the sensor reached its RICH THRESHOLD which means that it was trying to increase fuel but voltage went to the limit and caused the code.
the car has 47k miles on it. one other symptom is fluctuating idle rpms. down to 500 up to 1000. I had my regular mechanic read the codes on his reader and all his said was the 1124 and 1126. I told him about the other 7 codes and he said that that unit is telling me what other stuff could be wrong, but that his unit is stating what codes triggered the cel. sound right? didnt think so. but why two different readings from two machines?
ekename, thanx for responding back, when your bellows tube was bad, could you hear the vacuum leak, was it loud enough to be heard by you either in the car and next to the engine. I hear a distinct vacuum sound (but then again this is my first p-car and dont know if thats normal)
I want to believe that the main issue here is the MAF (due to 1124 and 1126 codes) plus the bellows tube (have part, waiting for install). In the mean time, i cleaned the MAF one more time. This time i pulled out the stops. Steps:
1. remove, 2. soak in alcohol. 3. rub wire thing with alcohol and q-tip, 4. dip again., 5. spray like no tomorrow with correct type of carb cleaner. 6. wipe wire thing with same cleaner. 7. dip in alcohol again. 8. carefully, carefully,... rub the wire with electrosol dish cleaning scouring steel mesh thing (f-it, if it was damaged, i couldnt do it anymore harm right?). this step actually removed a black spot on the wire, and gave it a nice sheen overall. then, 9. dip again in alcohol, 10. rub with q-tip. 11, spray with carb cleaner. 12. rinse with alcohol again. 13. let dry. 14. re-install. RESULTS?
a little bit better idle (more stable). but i am sure only temporary.
Oh and by the way, i found out what was making that loud noise while driving. my differential and/or transaxle. waiting for pricing to contact warranty co.
Peter
In addition to cleaning the MAF, carefully follow all vacuum lines and check for cracks. Check the intake tube between the MAF and throttlebody. Check for tightness of throttlebody bolts. Put a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas tank. Finally, disconnect the battery by removing the negative cable for about 5 minutes. This will help clear any errors that may be present in the system. Do this whether or not you have a CEL.
Because you are getting both the 1124 and 1126 codes, your problem is most likely caused by something tha effects BOTH banks, such as those mentioned above. I stongly recommend you get a scanner. For a cost of $250 or so, it is a great tool and will save you money and headaches on all your cars.
When you get the parts for the bellow's tube, it would be noce to post a picture of them so those that do not know what they are looking for can see it.
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