Saving my '99 from being "totaled" by insurance

Backstory - Midwest, park in back, no garage (seasonally stored in heated storage). A couple of weeks back it rained for what felt like three weeks. I have a heavy car-cover I put on if there's a storm, but generally don't bother for light (if extended) rain. I work from home, so I drive it for fun, not for any daily commute or grocery runs. Neighbor comes up to me and says my alarm was going off that morning. They recorded it, and the horn was going steady. Remote didn't unlock the car, so I had to use the key to unlock. Dash lights lit up, but no ignition. I figured it must have drained the battery, so I go to pop the frunk, and it's locked out (I didn't even know this was a thing). I posted here about this, and started searching videos to figure out what's going on. Quickly learned my drains were plugged (a neighbor's tree dropped a lot of small leaves during the extended rain), the overflow filled my floorboards, and the immobilizer was set off. I couldn't find the secret release cable under the front fender, so I pulled the door trim where the front and back latches are, and used a small screwdriver to push the security lockout pin aside so I could pop the front. Disconnected the battery, pulled the seats, pulled the unit out from under the driver's seat (it was wet), flushed with 99% isopropyl alcohol and cleaned the white fog and a couple small greenish patches with a soft micro brush and now it looks good as new (I understand there can be micro-corrosion). No burn or scorch signs anywhere. Plugs and wire harness look good. No visible corrosion on any of the leads. Pull up the carpet as best I can without removing the center counsel, mopped out standing water with towels, and have been running multiple fans under the carpets ever since. Learned a couple days ago that my insurance should cover this, so I call them and yes, in fact, I am covered, including a flat-bed to my choice of shop (I'm trying to schedule with Kelly Moss in Madison). Yea! Saves me from trying to figure out how to fully remove the carpets for a proper and full drying. Those under-carpet mats are a bitch to dry. Now this morning I get a call from my insurance, and they want to "total" it and said someone from their "totaled" division will be calling me. Now I could see if this was going to a dealer it could run up very high, very fast. But either they have a very low value on my car, or a very high cost estimate to replace the carpet and immobilizer, or some combination of both. I've put too much recent work into it, from a new headliner (pro-shop) to new top hydraulics and new window regulators (DYI) to want to part with it. Plus, as an early build cabriolet tiptronic - I think I'm one of two in the Rennlist early build registry - it would be difficult to find, and... I love my car. So my question is, has anyone dealt with this before, and what's my best approach to avoiding having it declared "totaled" and just getting it back on the road?

Just learned Kelly Moss is too far backed up to want to wait, considering this is a water mitigation issue. Does anyone have recommendations in the NW Illinois or Madison WI general area for a good indy shop that can handle this kind of electronics issue?

Its just your immobilizer under the front seat got wet. It happens all the time. Pull it, the dme and a key to ecudoctors and pay the bill. No need for insurance. Oh and clean your roof drains. https://www.ecudoctors.com/?srsltid=...ktaNYBPt0UuCdF

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Ya, Ive dealt with this on many cars thruout the years, unfortunately. Ya, insurance knows this type of flooding in this specific car is very costly to fix correctly. And frequently eventually needs a expensive amended claim that totals the car. Especially if you've got that musty moldy smell that won't go away...

I think I caught the carpets early enough with fans, though replacement carpets is likely the better solution to be sure. $1,500 for new carpet set, plus install. I think it all gets down to if the immobilizer and wiring harness can be saved, or needs replacement.

Honestly the carpet will dry out if it’s pulled out and allowed to hang. I had to do that with the rear carpet on mine. Used a shop vac to get the bulk out and let air and time do the rest.

Maybe can use an ozone generator to take out that musty smell, basically circulates ozone throughout the car, obviously in a well ventilated area. https://www.wikihow.com/Do-an-Ozone-...t-on-a-Vehicle

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I "flooded" my brand new, as in days old, jeep gladiator by getting caught in a storm with no roof, inches of water. Of course pulled off the carpet, which jeep naturally makes easy. Ran a dehumidifier in the car for days. No issues with mold, etc.

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^^^This is what I would do.

I'm going through this now. I got mine cleaned up but door locks and key fob don't work. I'm going to send mine off to them.

This is a very common issue with the boxster, send it to ECU doctors and don't talk to the insurance company any longer. Control your own destiny. Best of luck.

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These guys have a good reputation: Joe's Garage - Mechanic Services in Glendale | European Car Specialists Yeah, it's not terribly close to Madison, but there are only so many P-car shops around, and they tend to be in denser areas.

If I don't end up doing this myself, I'll likely be using Fischer Motors in Lake Barrington. He's worked on my car before.

Why not let them total it and buy it back for �parts� and keep the money, of course it will have diminished value due to being totaled, it only works if you plan on keeping the car for a while.. here is the 64k question will your state allow you to drive a flooded totaled car and will they or any insurance company insure it perhaps 3rd party Liability only, I would suggest to you that the claim has already been put on your insurance record anyway .. so ignoring them at this point may be moot.. if you only had flooded floor boards it�s very fixable as mentioned above.. BITD we would get 20 or 30 flooded cars at a Pontiac dealership early 90�s after every rain, everyone of them was back in the road within a week same carpets.. and they had water in their engines, the grand am intake was very low and would suck water in and lock the engine .. we had the routine down, plugs out spin the engine for 10 mins, check the oil if it looked ok new plugs crank it and run it till the white smoke cleared, change the oil new filters and plugs, seats out carpet out wet vac then fans, allow carpet to dry reinstall everything back on the road.. your complication is the dme , if you agree terms with insurance use that money to send of the dme to the experts and voila �good luck Sir..

This (salvage/buyback) is becoming the most likely outcome. I had no intention of selling in any foreseeable future, and more than one friend also told me to just take the title hit and buy it back. The carpets have been pulled back and fans running 24/7 for at least 10 days now, and I can do most of all this work myself anyway. My next challenge will be to be sure I can get top value from the insurance - this last year I had the top hydraulics and window regulators rebuilt to better then OEM and did the pull/reinstall myself, so not sure how they'll credit that, and a new headliner 2 years ago ($2k+). And of course I'll need to pull the ECU board, and I was told by the ECU Doctor this is going to be a challenge without being able to easily open the cab service clamshell.

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Yeah, I would see what Rick has to say. No need to make it a salvageable car if you don't have too. Especually if its a keeper .

Next week I will have a complete 996 interior (black) ready to rescue someone’s car from the insurance adjuster. It has never been smoked in and has never had any water intrusion. I am pulling all of the sound insulation the factory installed so everything that can absorb water can be replaced. My Indy and I felt the minimal wear made the interior worth extracting. This car had a minor fender bender in August that popped the airbags, and it has been stored inside since the accident.

Quotes source post: 20759281

I have been going to Fischer Motors for fifty years and heartlily support your doing so. Since you have also been using Fischer, I would let them take care of it. It will not be cheap, but it will be better than having a salvage title, which will not only make it difficult to sell, but also severely diminish the value.

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I do struggle with this. I'm getting a lot of suggestions, here and off-line, to do the salvage buyback. I have talked to Rick, and he's happy to help and encouraging to having me do as much of the work as I'm comfortable doing myself. Even if I pass on trying to manually open the top and clamshell, I have to believe with most of the interior already out I can flatbed it to Rick, have him access the ECU and send the CLU and ECU to the ECU Doctors, reinstall the electronics and interior, and still be within a number that would trigger insurance salvage. I wouldn't have the extra $ from doing a salvage buyback, but I'd keep a clean title and remain insurable. Even though I don't ever see selling it.

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Where did you get it from?

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Well, if OP doesn't want them, for a fair price I'd take both door panels if you're looking to sell ?

My interior is all metropol blue. I'll pass on the black interior parts, but appreciate the offer.

If you can get by with doing it your self good on you, I would have a conversation with your insurance regarding the reporting of the claim, if a claim number has been issued, it will likely show up on your history.. further if it shows up as minor flood damage then even if the car is not totaled and you do all your own work, you have diminished value and a record of the event.. the company I worked for had a fleet and I dealt with the insurance company on many claims over 30 years.. upon renewal with same or a different company those self paid claims would show up as an event and effect premium cost, however if you had never contacted them and self fixed it�s unlikely there would be a record � good luck

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The car was maintained by my Indy for the last five years for a client of his. In August the client told him about the accident, and I had been mulling converting my tip to manual. I bought the car from the client, and it�s been stored at my Indy�s shop since August 22nd. The car was one of the first 996�s made and was sold in Salt Lake. It�s been in North Idaho for over 5 years. It has never been smoked in or had any water intrusion. We just pulled all of the carpets and there are no wear marks anywhere. I was thinking about doing Leather World dye on the front seats which would make them look new, but we think it�s better to show them in their present condition. I have a number of pictures of the interior while it was in the car, and will be adding more pictures as removed. All of the little green stickers are on the back side of each part and look fresh. Shipping all of this will be expensive and time consuming, so would love to find it a new home in the PNW and I will deliver. But I will ship it. I used to sell used general aviation avionics on eBay, so I am not afraid of packing/shipping.

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I agree with leaving the leather as-is. I just bought a set of Sport Seats on eBay a couple weeks ago. They were shipped FedEx Express Freight from NJ to Chicago, in a crate which was 1/4" plywood sides on a pallet, cardboard top. The crate was more than 1/2 empty. Likely two similar crates would hold a full interior with plenty of room for packing material. Cost to me was $350