How to disable oil filter bypass

Hey gang Im wondering if anyone has disabled the stick oil filter cartridge bypass and how they did it. I like the capacity if the cartridge over the LN SPin on conversion as well as the ease of looking for debris in the used filter. The bypass, however, I don't understand.

Quotes source post: 14011229

Blow a filter due to too high oil pressure and you'll come to appreciate the bypass. My info is there is a pressure bypass at the oil pump or close to it which would be hard to disable. A WAG would be the pump removed and the bypass drilled out and plugged in some fashion. But I would not do this. If the engine is generating any debris worth worrying about it will be present in the filter housing and filter element. If the engine is truly sick you'll know something's amiss even before you bother to check the oil filter.

The LN filter is usually used on millions(literally) of 5 to 6 litre engines worldwide and you think it is too small because....? Some very smart people selected it fro the M96.Ask the Racers what they use? The Napa Gold version is popular. The case splitter for the GM (LN) filter is reasonable and easy to use. Do (free) UOA if you have concerns? Or take the filter to your Indie to split for you? Probably the biggest cause of M96 being severely damaged is a combo of engine problem+OEM filter.I am biased because I had such a failure but the engine had an LN filter.It caught the debris.There was no collateral damage.Engine was rebuildable.Many are not -particularly if the c/s is ruined. Just 1 anecdote but quite common. I hope this helps you. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148...ing-filtermag/ You Tube http://www.filtermag.com/

I installed the LN no-bypass filter, and got the biggest element I can find screwed on there. As for blocking the stock bypass setup, I'm not going to go there. Although it may indeed be voodoo, I'm also considering one of those magnet wraps for my filter housing. Even if it catches only a few particles should the engine start to go pear-shaped, it'll be worth the minimal investment.

and on the outside of the scavenge pump. Neodymium mags from your old hard drives.

Well, I'm not planning to remove and clean the scavenge pumps, but the oil filter gets changed every 3k miles. Unless I"ve missed something the scavenge pumps are not a common service item. I would rather the particles get scavenged by the mag drain plug in the sump(removed as well), or the filter, but not retained inside the engine. YMMV

Quotes source post: 14011971

Nobody said scavenge pumps are a common service item. In the unlikely event of the engine releasing FOM, you need to stop the spread of it as close to the source as possible. That is the whole point of it. Fit and hopefully forget.Zero cost ,minimal time to fit,no downside,some protection .Not my original idea. Another smart Rennlister shared it and had dome similar on another engine also.

Quotes source post: 14012280

Ok, but I'm going to explain why this still doesn't make sense. I'm not adverse to intriguing solutions to failure, but not sure where this goes. As its name implies, a scavenge pump draws up fluid from a distant location, and returns it to a well. In the oiling system of an engine, it would take the oil AFTER having gone through the circuit(including all the bearings), and delivering it to the sump, where the mag drain plug resides. Second, presuming the failure mode is ferrous where a magnet would help, we're talking about scarf from the IMSB, IMS, crankshaft, rods, oil pump housing, or cams. I"m guessing there's more Fe in the engine, but these are the big things that release Fe into the circuit. I can presume that if one of the cylinders begins to come apart(D-chunk), we're done for the day, and even the largest magnet in the world will do no good. Presumably, we're looking at detritus from the failure prone IMSB as it begins to disintegrate. As the IMS and bearings are below the crankshaft, the majority of the oil windage from the IMS and bearing are going to go right in the sump, not anywhere near the scavenge pumps, as they say - Elvis(oil) has left the pressure circuit. But - I will admit that I have no idea where they are in the engine, it would be strange to find them near, or below the IMS, where they might be suitable to put a magnet for protection. I'm willing to be advised otherwise of course. Lastly, as I mentioned, a magnet presumes to retain the particles in the engine, where they live on forever until the engine is taken down. I want whatever is in there, to come out of there, and leave via the oil, filter, or mag outside the filter, or manual cleaning of the drain plug. I don't want it to stay in the engine where it's another little time bomb just waiting to be released into the oil circuit again.

Quotes source post: 14012391

You clearly missed the original discussion of this issue.Nor are you accepting the distinction between maintenance and catastrophic failure. As I explained previously this is not my idea. Much smarter people came up with it for some of the reasons cited. And since I have rebuilt the M96 down to the last circlip, I completely respect their experience,knowledge.skill and kind advice. Unsubscribed

Quotes source post: 14012797

Alrighty then. Your reasoning is other smart people think it's a good idea. I gave my reasons why it doesn't make sense. I guess I'm ok with that. Already addressed the mx vs failure several times. Still doesn't hold water to me, but if you have decided to accept their word, I'll just say have a nice day, and move on too.

Wow. So anyway... the filter area of the stock cartridge is bigger than the Napa gold. My thinking was that was not the direction I wanted to head. Now that I have thought about it, even with additional filter area, what use is the stock element if it only filters a percentage of pumped oil? Plus, the original factory oil change intervals probably could use the additional filter capacity. Since we all know that the M96 should have its oil changed within 4-6k miles, the filter never sees a condition where it is so full of particulate that is bypasses ( except where catastrophic failure happens). Thanks guys. I think I have answered my own question. Change to a spin on using the LN adapter and move on.

Quotes source post: 14013088

The way it was explained to me is there is a pressure bypass at the oil pump, it is part of the oil pump in some way. (I admit I have never had a Porsche engine apart to confirm this, but the senior techs told me this and the oiling drawing indicates a bypass in the filter area.) If the oil pressure is too high -- as might be the case at cold start and if one doesn't keep the RPMs low -- the bypass saves the filter from being subjected to over pressure. There may be a bypass that is part of where the filter housing attaches that in the (very unlikely) event the filter becomes blocked the engine continues to receive oil. The stock filter has a lot of filter area. So much so that at least for my 2002 Boxster while the factory service schedule called for 15K mile oil changes the filter wasn't scheduled to be changed for 30K miles. The time a filter will be the dirtiest -- under normal conditions -- is in a new engine. When I changed the oil in my new 2008 Cayman S at 750 miles the oil filter housing oil had a metallic sheen to it due to all of the very fine aluminum the engine had shed and the larger pieces being pulverized by going through the pump over and over again as the result of the oil pressure bypass. The oil had considerable larger trash -- mostly sealant fragments -- and the element likewise had considerable trash. However, the filter had sufficient surface area -- unfold one and you'll be amazed at how much surface area there is -- that having the filter plugged and some other filter bypass then routing unfiltered oil to the engine was not a concern. I'm sure had the unfiltered oil been routed to the engine the lifters would have acted to trap that fine stuff. All you need to do is run a good filter and an approved oil with a multi-viscosity grade suitable for where you live and drive and change the filter and the oil at reasonable intervals. I've run the Porsche filter in my cars since day 1 -- I did buy an "OEM" filter but a side by side comparison of it to a "factory" filter gave me the ******* and I never used the "OEM" filter -- and change the filter and oil every 5K miles and both engines are just fine. The Boxser with almost 310K miles and the Turbo now with over 152K miles. When I changed the oil in my Porsches (and before these other cars) I never bothered to cut the filter open or even capture the filter oil in a clean container -- other than the 2 times I changed the Cayman's oil. I run no magnets, attach no rabbit feet to the keychain, utter no prayers to keep the evil spirits at bay. Just reasonable oil/filter servicing. Dull maybe. But it works.

the problem with the original filter on the engine is not the filtering capabilities, it weakness is that the filter bypass is built into the filter housing itself, and over time the spring becomes weaker and bypass is open longer if not stays open allowing unfiltered oil thru the system. so if staying with factory set up, replace the filter housing every so often. oil press regulator is doing its job, without it on cold climates and cold starts, we could be blowing the filter housing (plastic) right off the motor. I remember back in the early 2000 we had some new engine designs coming out for eztreme heavy equipment 30 liters engine that the engine engineer decided to have a oil press regulator dump return to the inlet of the oil pump and winter came, they were blowing 4 oil filters gallon size off the motor along with about 60 gallons of oil on the ground, and these engine had aux oil pump built on to the starter to pre oil the engine for 30 second before cold start, so back to the drawing board and find a way to dump to the sump. just like our engines do. so press regulator plays a important part in the the factory are trying to achieve with mileage, so we see drops in oil viscosity and lower oil pressure to increase mileage.

Read this - https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...p-upgrade.html

I took apart my stock oil filter canister. The bypass in the bottom of the canister will pop out if you pull on it with plyers. The spring bypass mechanism seemed fully intack and still pretty strong. Meaning, I don't think the spring weakened compared to the new canister I purchased. I really wonder how much bypassing really happens if you don't push the car during cold start. I am saying that old spring still seemed to be seating very firmly.

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Correct !. The bypass just pops out of the bottom of the canister. That's the only real problem I have with the factory bypass is it sits in the bottom where any heavy metal debris will also sit. Some filter systems have the bypass at the top which is a much better place to bypass. The bypass can open at cold starts when a large pressure differential is present across the filter until the pressure equalizes across the filter. To answer the OP question (sorry I missed this thread) about disabling the factory bypass, I have been doing this for years on my 3 m96 cars currently on the road. A 99 Coupe, A 99 Cab, and a 986 (with S engine ). Simply by poping out the bypass, cleaning it, and fill the cup with Loctite E-HP120 epoxy, then let it sit overnite and install. I use the K&N Pro Series PS-7011 cartridge filter $5. high flow, has a good internal strength cage to prevent collapse, haven't had a collapse even using M1 5w-50 or even 15w-50 in winter, and yes I do track these cars. The only issue with disabling the bypass is that it takes a moment to reach max oil pressure on cold starts.Although I feel with the larger surface area of the K&N PS-7011 vs the Napa 1042(non-pypass filter) with similar density filer media of 25-30 microns, the K&N will reach max pressure quicker. The issue with pressure loss due to a stopped up filter from dirt and extended change intervals should be a non-issue. Most 996 owners change their oil at much more often intervals.If you drive your car long enough for the oil filter to stop up due to dirt, then you need your 996 taken away from you anyway !!

Quotes source post: 14012391

I can't believe I missed all this talk about scavenge pumps and magnets (yea it was my idea) and the ferrous debris control , but I did, so my 2 cents.. The scavenge pumps are indeed robust and don't give much trouble....unless a piece of metal goes in and they lock-up, then you have catastrophic failure such as a broken timing chain, bent valves, pistons, rods, block,IMS shaft. The scavenge pump is driven by the cam gear, which is driven by the timing chain, which is driven by the IMS shaft, which is driven by the crankshaft. The clearance in the pumps are very small, and it doesn't take but a small piece to lock it up, and if your extremely lucky the pump snout or cam gear will break, and not the timing chain or IMS. I have seen many that break the timing chain and if at high RPM's it will total the engine. The metal that usually causes the scavenge pump to lock up comes from the valve lifter, valve spring, or a piece of timing chain roller. Installing a magnet placed at the inlet of the scavenge pump can keep this from happening and catch the debris from entering the pump. It is not there for filtering purpose, but just for debris control and protection. I think Jake does a similar mod on their FSI engines, but they wouldn't elaborate on it (top secret), but maybe a screen on the inlet of the scavenge pump. At any rate it is a way to eliminate a cause of catastrophic engine failure.

Quotes source post: 15007011

Hi there, sorry to resurrect an old thread. Great information you are providing here. I was debating getting the LN Engineering spin on to eliminate the bypass however your idea here looks better. This would save money and allow the use of the paper filter which I like for ease of analysis. Would you be able to expand on 2 things for me? You refer to cleaning the bypass, do you use something specific to get all the oil off it to allow adhesion of the locktite product? I haven't looked at this item other than the one time it fell out when i first changed the oil in the car and had to wonder where it came from. You said to fill the cup with locktite, is that the silver little cup on top of it? Thank you in advance, Not new to working on cars however new to Porsche. I just picked up my first this past June. 2005 996 C4S 26k miles. Rick

Quotes source post: 16243921

Hi, just pop the by-pass out of the plastic can, clean it with brake or carb cleaner then use some rubbbing alcohol on it to remove all the oil. Turn it upside down and fill the plastic cup on the spring side full of epoxy. Fill all around the spring and in the center of the spring untill about level on the cup. Use Loctite E-120hp , it is high temp and oil resistant and adheres to plastic and metal alike. Allow 24 hrs to cure before reinstalling. Simple to do and will stop any oil from bypassing the filter while maintaining the ease of inspection of the filter and retaining the larger capacity filter to allow quicker/more oil flow on cold start compared to the smaller spin on filter element.

Quotes source post: 16244858

Thank you very much for the reply and clarification. I agree with you 100%. Keep the benefits of the OEM Filter and eliminate the bypass. This has been added to my winter maintenance / upgrade list for while my car is hibernating this winter. I have plenty of time up here in the north east as I wait for them to stop salting the roads... Thanks again!

If you do some comparisons,, bigger filter does not always = better performance,, The bypass in the pump is sufficient, if the filter plugged things have gone way way wrong already.. IMHO.. A lot of german cars use "wet" filters, it makes a quick easy way to see scarf in the oil.. They also have a common failure,, the silly plastic housings and caps.. My 69 911,, used a standard Spin on filter and it was the same size that is used in a Ford Pickup.. It also was mounted right on the dry sump tank. That held over 2 gallons of oil. (For a 2.0 liter engine.) I've tried a lot of filter setups on race cars,, standard spin-ons have the least problems in my experience. You can buy Aluminum replacement cans for some engines that use wet filters,, which is what I did on one car it worked well. You also have to consider that about a million VW bugs that got the crap drove out of them with nothing but a screen on the oil pickup make 150 or 200K.. At the end of the day,, OEM filters are a compromise to get the engine to the end of the warranty and cost the manufacturer the minimum amount of money to do it. The 996 really is the poster child of a exotic that's design was micromanaged by accountants..

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True . I agree, but smaller filter rarely = better performance.. I've many many of the Plastic canisters off while servicing ,and haven't seen one fail. I even epoxy magnets around the outside of mine for even better filtering..

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Well it sorta depends on how you define performance,, smaller filters (Used on most cars now,,, ) Fill quicker, so reduce prime time to the system. The working theory that a lot subscribe to is that the smaller filters somehow flow less, but I've back pressure tested a couple used on my Jeep which I can get a tall and short filter for,, no difference.. Not flowing 20w50 anyway,, The resistance to flow was identical with a analog helic gauge.. Now there is probably different filter media,, and other unknowns,, so we all go with the most comfortable to us choice.. I've replaced several BMW oil filter caps that cracked in use,, they seem to last safely about 50K miles after that your on the timer.. Now these were all heavily tracked cars.. Similar issue to the E46 and onward cooling systems with the self destruct mode ,, all the plastic gets brittle and typically by 80 to 100 K miles the whole system needs yarded off and replaced.. (Those that don't often end up replacing the engine...) Also seen it on a couple boats and tractors..

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Yea, the smaller filter will fill quicker if it is empty/dry, but that isn't what I mean by "performance". I mean given the same filter media, the one with more surface area will deliver better flow, albeit the smaller one may be perfectly adequate, the larger one will be more than adequate when it comes to equalizing pressure differentials. I'm ok with my choice. I've had many more leaks with spin on filters(other cars) than with the Porsche plastic canisters.Plus I don't like the mess, it was fine when just throwing the spin on in the recycle bin, but cutting it open, not so much. And that is what we all do on these engines , every oil filter gets the eye-ball test..lol

I've never had a spin on leak,, and that's a lot of years and cars,, good point there that we all have had different items fail.. And folks do tend to dodge the most familiar problems. I actually prefer a Oberg, with a remote spin on mounted closed end down.. But its not a uber practical setup on a street car..

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Right,I have worked in Dealerships for over 40 years, so I have seen just about everything fail. The first canister type oil filter I had become familiar with the Boxster/996, I wasn't impressed at first, but It grew on me since looking at the filter is so important on the m96 engine. The biggest problems with the leaks on spin-on filters were caused by the torque spec was always "hand tight" which ended up being way too much or way too little many times.Or assuming the old O-ring came off with the old filter and ending up with a double O-ringed (which won't seal well or for long). I have seen that happen so many times I couldn't count them. I only had it happen to me personally once !! I lost a race engine (in the final round) back in 1979 due to the old "double O-ring failure" of the spin-on filters FL1HP. Late nite last minute prep, fresh oil and filter ( the old rubber O-ring stuck to the block unnoticed). held up fine until the final round. O-ring let go at 9k rpms in second gear, engine locked up and twisted the crankshaft !!! That was an expensive Second Place Finish Race ....

Yep,, its AMAZING how fast a engine is empty when a line or filter comes off. I always wipe the filter boss clean,, I want to see metal not rubber.. I started out doing oil changes in my early teens and I managed to not screw one up... I was lucky I started out in a shop that worked on everything from a MG midget to a Kenworth. Tought me you can't be too comfortable, there is always some engineer that thinks he has a better idea. Like my 94 Jeep, they came with either a metric or a SAE fitting, adn the darn things will thread on either one, but only one stays on..