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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFair engine core price?
Leading reported evidence
Run engines sell in the $5000-$7000 range
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
Without knowing the mileage or other details, most complete good running engines sell in the $5000-$7000 range
Leading evidence: 'Run engines sell in the $5000-$7000 range' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Run engines sell in the $5000-$7000 range' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
An engine can run without lubrication when rolled over.
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28 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I'm picking up a complete high mileage (200k) 3.4L engine today that I'm planning to rebuild. Was told it was pulled this week from a 1999 996 C2 that is getting a LS3 conversion. I have been told the engine runs fine, no noises, no intermix issues, etc. Assuming the motor is a solid rebuild-able motor what would you pay?
This particular motor has 200k on it. Current owner said it ran fine when it was pulled. Im not worried about the miles in my case because I'm planning to rebuild it before I install it. Luckily the price the current owner wants is way way below that price range you posted.
Yea I think that's about right for a running core to rebuild. Another forum member just paid $1500 CAD for one that "suppose" to be a running engine, but the bottom end was blown up. Luckily he can still part it out and recoup his purchase price.
Unless he's got video (with good audio) of the engine running "fine", I wouldn't pay more than $2k (that's what the core is worth). At the very least with that kind of mileage on it, it's highly likely there's some bore scoring or other potential issues lurking. This is not to say that it's not possible that the engine is "fine" - just highly unlikely. Without some sort of proof or at least documentation, you're asking to get burned!
I'm sure there are some gremlins to be found in this motor that's why i only payed $1500. Worst case I can part the thing out and make my money back easily.
That's one heck of a deal for only $1500. It's a plug-and-play engine. Instead of rebuilding I would pull the manifolds and have a look at the ports for carbon build up, put a scope down the spark plug holes to see what the bores look like, do a leakdown test and if all looks normal, pull the valve covers to see what the cam actuator pads look like (replace them if needed) and I would then put the engine away as a spare. Use it when needed.
Hmmm, yeah - that makes no sense! Less for both??? I read it as $1500 for the tranny, or $1000 if you bought the motor too (i.e. he doesn't have to take them apart)... But no price for the motor - I think he just forgot to include the price...
I tried to contact this guy a few weeks ago and I was emailed back a link to Ebay. Looked a bit fishy. Too bad, because the town listed in the ad is only 30 minutes from me.
Great price on a 996 engine.
That's cheaper than most of the Boxster engines I've found.
I'd pay that much for a 3.4 or 3.6 anyday.
As long as it turns over, I'd be happy.
I'd start tearing it down and saving my money for some Nickies!
There is a separate ad for the engine where he asks $5k for the motor and says he can do the tranny for 1.5k if sold with the engine...
Could not verify that it runs after the rollover, the ad says. Says he is "open to any inspections or tests".
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts...816546143.html
Thats my plan. Nickies, JE pistons, ARP bolts, IMS solution, etc. First, once I get this engine apart I'm going to send the crank and heads out to a P-Car machine shop near me. Just need to find the time for this and the home and motorcycle projects in between.
Most cars since electronic fuel injection have roll over switches that get tripped when the car rolls over and disables the fuel pump. This switch needs to be manually reset in order for the pump to start working again. More than likely that's what has happened here.
