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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHPPI on Super Early 996
Leading reported evidence
Check acidity/alkalinity of the coolant
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
Using a multimeter, you should check the acidity/alkalinity of the coolant.
Leading evidence: 'Check acidity/alkalinity of the coolant' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check acidity/alkalinity of the coolant' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Borescope to check for any scoring or internal damage.
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Suggestion
During the test drive, check for brake performance.
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Suggestion
Using a Durametric, you should check for camshaft deviations.
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16 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Hi brainstrust,
I am looking at purchasing a June 98 build 911 w 100k miles. The seller has shown me the permanent IMS solution with the oil feeder happening and claims new tyres, less than 10k miles old clutch, new struts and tires.
There is a high end European british specialist who has offered a PPI for $200 and has previously placed the car on a dyno. I dont know the claimed whp even though the vendor thinks it was 270...I think he is likely wrong.
Outside of DME report and cam variances etc ... what else would you suggest I want to see in a PPI?
Borescope
Manometer for AOS
errors / codes for DME / ECU for O2 sensors (bank 1 and bank 2, at idle), central locking (lock position not fully reached (??? is this applicable)
using a Durametric check fuel trim value and Cam deviations and over revs
Check the color and consistency of the coolant. If it's dark or cloudy, that's a sign of intermix
Check for soot on the driver's side tailpipe and listen for ticking on bank 2. That could mean cylinder bore scoring
pull the filter and examine the filter media for ferro magnetic debris - this could be IMS bearing material -(not likely if IMS solution has been done)
IF the dyno results are available and are 270... (again I would be surprised) what would this tell you? or what should i surmise from this?
Criminal background check and credit scores on all previous owners.
3 unrelated references from the last mechanic who serviced the car.
Complete engine tear-down
In all seriousness, here's what I have learned about 996s in the last few months, and from buying mine.
IMS is a real issue, if not done and documented, budget $3000+ for replacement.
Bore scoring is a real issue. An invasive PPI is nice but trying to get a seller to agree is likely difficult. Dropping the sump and checking with a scope is a $100 DIY or much more involved if you can find anyone to do it.
My preferred method is to buy a nice car, from a known seller who has had it for a long time, preferably in an expensive zip code, with documented maintenance. Such cars are worth a premium, but are not above reproach so look carefully.
DME report is easy to get, pay attention to stage 3 and 4, otherwise good.
I think that about covers it.
270HP at the wheels is about the top of the range of what you'll see on a Dynograph for these cars on average. Porsche rates their HP at the flywheel.
An objective professional PPI is a preferred choice, but here are some things you can check on your own...
Here are some commons things to check as it relates to the engine:
1. check the quality and clarity of the coolant in the expansion tank. If it's cloudy or chocolate milk, then run away from the car. Using a multimeter, you should check the acidity/alkalinity of the coolant.
2. check the quality of the serpentine belt. Any slippage noises? Screeching noises?
3. Using a multimeter check the health of the battery vs alternator
4. Check brake and steering fluid reservoirs.
5. With mechanic's ears, check under bank#2 for any piston slap associate with bore scoring. You need to be at the cylinder head. If you hear a rhythmic ticking sound, then run from this car. Look for soot on the bank2 tailpipe - driver's side (US cars)
6. Open the driver's door and put your index finger on the window. Is the car shaking? Excessive vibration? How does the engine sound? Smooth or rough? Clogged injectors would cause roughness.
7. Examine rotor and brake pads. Look for a lip or cuts on the rotor surface. Examine the thickness of the brake pads.
8. Using a manometer, check the health of the AOS. Unplug the oil cap and test for inches of water column. You need to be about 5 inches of water.
9. Using a Durametric, you should check for camshaft deviations. You should be within 6˚ of deviation between bank 1 and bank 2.
10. Using a Durametric, you should also check the rough running index and fuel trim.
11. Using a Durametric, check the readiness status. Examine the overrev counter. If you have excessive numbers in Range 2 (996 cars), then you definitely want to be concerned. Probably walk away in my book.
12. Take a test drive. Make sure the car pulls strong. Watch the tach closely for any clutch slippage. Examine the clutch feel and engagement times. If it engages too high on the range, then the clutch is problematic.
13. During the test drive, check for brake performance. These are light cars with high-performance brake systems; therefore, the car should stop quickly.
14. Check steering and alignment during driving. Does the car pull strongly to the left or right? Is the steering wheel straight when driving? Going slowly, make a sharp turn at full steering range, hear any clicking noises?
15. With the car still at idle, look underneath for any signs of leaks. Again, listen closely to the unwanted noises - any tapping/ticking sounds, weird idling ramping, etc. Does the car exhibit any CEL, MIL, etc.?
Check the obvious stuff (AC, radio, lights, windows, sunroof, etc) as you would any used car.
Here are some videos from Jake Raby that should help with the process:
ECU interrogation:
You Tube
Manometer Reading:
You Tube
Diagnosing Bore Scoring:
You Tube
ok so everyone has been extremely helpful! this is a definitive list of things to and
@b3freak
brought it all together.
I am a firm believer that a thread like this deserves a sticky as I came up with variations of this list from searching all threads and posts that i could.
As a cyclist and a recent american transplant, i follow many forums and there are always helpful people... HOWEVER this community seems to have breadth and depth like no other I have seen.
My potential car also needs a second key (solution found here) and some upholstery restoration which Lseats seem to have the solution for... found here!
Thanks again everyone!
@motoo344
@jobyt
@danix
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
